Removing a broken bolt woes.

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Lip Ripper
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Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by Lip Ripper »

This 5.0 has been a challenge. There was a Bolt on the right front timing cover with a stud on the end for the obvious. When I went to move it; it was not happy. As careful as I could be it finally gave up and broke off. When the cover was removed it had a single thread above the block surface. No problem, weld a nut on and back it off when it is hot; not. 4 attempt's. So I center punched it to drill. I have about, well hundred's of drill's in 4 indexes plus a bunch of other's. Nothing would cut this tool steel hard bolt. I even went to buy the best bit's I could find, rolled the block on it's back and the bit would not go through. I thought to myself, okay the grade 5 nut's are stealing all the weld before the broken bolt get's enough heat to mate. I dumped a bucket of old OE bolt's from a scrapped Fairlane and found a 5/16 nut with a washer stamped onto it. I ground that down, and then some and welded it on. I got it to move some before it gave up. Back to the bucket. I found a shallow 5/16 nut, half the thickness of a regular nut; bingo. Welded it up and she moved a little. I guess I didn't mention that I kept reheating the nut and broken bolt each time before I moved it. Finally after a week of taking second place to that sucker, I won!

SW
66 Cyclone GT; 245/60R15's on 15x8's and 215/70R15's on 15x7 Magnum's.
There's nothing like the sound of a pushrod V8 singing at the top of her lung's.

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poboyjo65
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by poboyjo65 »

Victory is sweet after a long hard fought battle! :D I'm guessing the new one will get more than a fair share of anti seize! :lol: :lol:
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ants875
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by ants875 »

What I have found that works is to weld a washer to the broken bolt then a nut to the washer. But it'd always a fight to get them out. Isn't life fun!

Ant
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Comechero65
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by Comechero65 »

I had a broken bolt where the front bumper bracket mounted to the frame. I welded another bolt to what little was sticking out and was able to unscrew it ok.
Ron
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Rocket989
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by Rocket989 »

Complete Stainless bolt kits are available for $40 bucks on FleaBay! Screw "rust oxide" or cad plated bolts...especially for the water pump & timing cover!!
'cause Johno says you gotta have a sig pic! :)
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Lip Ripper
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by Lip Ripper »

The problem I've had with stainless is they will gall up. If that happens it's ugly. I love the look of them though.
66 Cyclone GT; 245/60R15's on 15x8's and 215/70R15's on 15x7 Magnum's.
There's nothing like the sound of a pushrod V8 singing at the top of her lung's.

Rocket989
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by Rocket989 »

Yah...still need anti-sleaze!!! :D
'cause Johno says you gotta have a sig pic! :)
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Comechero65
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by Comechero65 »

Yes stainless bolts not always the ideal. Some also tend to break easier in some aps.
You can never use too much never-seize.
Ron
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Matty
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by Matty »

Had this happen on several HO motors. I know exactly which bolt you speak of. Lol
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1962 Mercury Comet S22 302 5.0 T5 Custom: tfs 1 cam & springs, 8.8 31 spline lsd 373 rear, 5 lug disc conversion front and rear, new V8 steering components, Gt40 heads, Performer RPM intake, phenolic spacer, Brawler 650

popscomet
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by popscomet »

WE'VE all been there done that...just part of it ,friend. glad you won!!!!...at least your block was on the floor..mine ain't most times then not...had same on wife's 5.0 stang a few yrs ago changing water pumps..my weld held after 2nd time!!!!!! I slathered the crap out of it using anti-seiz going back together.....pop
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poboyjo65
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by poboyjo65 »

Yea we've all been there, it sux. The ones that never move are the hardest & usually snap,nothing you can do. I have tightened them ,,, to see if it will move & have had success after working it . if they turn some then stop ,& if you take your time & work it back & forth,like tapping a hole, & using good penetrating oil it can sometimes be avoided. Hair on the back of my neck stands up when a bolt is coming out but starts to gall or seize, so I'll stop & walk away for a while for it & me to cool down,then come back & turn it back in to the loose spot ,oil it ,& start working it back & forth.
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StPro
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by StPro »

I think everyone has been in that position with broken bolts. Another good tip before spinning water pump bolts hit them in the center with hammer and punch.
There are many lubricant that can help loosen stuck, galled or broken bolts, lacquer thinner Because it is very thin, bees wax works if you are using heat. One of my favorites is a cutting torch, heat the center of the bolt hit the cut leaver it will blow the bolt out of a cast iron block .That trick is not for the weak of hart.
Only use the brakes to stop and get gas.
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SASSY
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by SASSY »

Just went through this ordeal before we left for our trip south.
Wanted to change the cam belt on the minivan last fall but too busy with other stuff
right up to the last week before I wanted to leave.
Pretty simple job, till this 6inch long motor mount bolt seized,,,,, FACK!!!!!!!
Lacquer thinner and trans oil let it sit went to other stuff about the next bolt I pulled on,
pretty hard pull then easy and the head fell off the alt adj bolt,,,,,,FACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Went ahead snd got everything I could get off and went back to the mount bolt.
12mm bolt 16 inch bar with a snipe,,,,,,,, it moved! Back and forth penetrating fluid FOR AN HOUR!!!!!!!
Never got easy all the way out, steel in alum. The threads were hurt a bit nut useable
The alt bolt had a bit of bolt shaft protruding from the alum ear couple a firm hits with the hammer and welded a nut to it.
Careful to aim the heat away from the alt body so as to only heat the ear the bolt turned maybe 1 revolution then cooled the alt.
Busted off a couple bolts but eventually got it out.
A job that shoudda took about 3 hrs,, 2evevings!!
Side note,,
Im sure most of your understand the feeling when your about to start the motor after a job like this,, well I was pretty confident I got everything right ,,,but still,,,,,
I hit the key the engine fired up right away ,, perfect,,, THEN A HORIBLE BELT SQUEAL AND A TERRIBE THUMPING SOUND
Shut it off, heart sunk,,, then realized the thumping was the air compressor had kicked in! Well, belt squeal that aint so bad.
Refired and belt squeal, investagation reveiled alt was seized,,, what the,,, took it out and by the time I got it out of the engine compartment it rolled free. ????? Something must have jammed it, put it back in and after getting the belt tight enough to turn it
No problem so far on trip, approx 2500 k so far.
Dont leave this stuff to the last minute, but hey I know that,,,,,
I'd rather do it myself if it's done right or not,,,isn't that what hotrodding is all about

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poboyjo65
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Re: Removing a broken bolt woes.

Post by poboyjo65 »

I love some of these quotes; FACK!... I WON!....IT MOVED! ....ISN"T LIVE FUN? :lol: :lol: :lol: I laugh now but only because I have shared your pain & victory.

I had a buddy who called me to help him get 2 snapped off head bolts out on the install. I ask him how did you break 2 of them & if he went by the torque specs & he said yes & there is the book. I said how much & he said 90 lb.s, I said 90? I was able to use a small screw driver & hammer & just peck & peck in a circle & turn both out. afterwards I looked at his shop manual because I knew 90 didn't seem right so I looked it up, laughed & said did you have your reading glasses on when you read this? ''UH NO'' he said.I think it was 60 lb.s & turn an additional 90 degrees. :lol: :lol: I said next time use your glasses!
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