Making a hole bigger

[lavron]

What is the best way to enlarge a 1/2" hole up to 1" (I think) in 3/16" steel? I don't have a drill press either but could maybe find one to use. I do have a 1/2" drill. The hole does need to be centered over the 1/2" and I couldn't think of a way to get a hole saw to center except to make some sort of arbor that was 1/2" around to keep it place.

See Ya,
Mike

[tomb22]

Step drills stay pretty centered. We used them a lot for making holes when running electrical conduit.

[lavron]

Step drills stay pretty centered. We used them a lot for making holes when running electrical conduit.

I looked at those and thought they might work ok, I would probably have to come from both ways because most I saw had 1/8" deep steps, Of course I am looking for a cheap one because I just have two holes to enlarge.

See Ya,
Mike

[popscomet]

buy you a good drill to start with ,,cheap could cost you more in the end,and use plenty of lube as you drill.......jmo

[Loner]

They make 1 inch bits that fit in 1/2 chucks. That would be the easiest way.

I have had to deal with this before.
Not sure it will work for you though.
I tacked a piece of pipe in place that the hole saw fit into for a guide. I think I had to drill out the pipe to 1-1/16 to get the hole saw to fit. Used the lathe to drill it out. Use a lot of cutting oil either way.

If it is really critical you could take it to a shop don't think it would be more that $10.00 a hole. Just no fun in it that way

What are you working on?

Matt

[poboyjo65]

Tack weld a thin washer, or a sheet of metal over the hole then you can mark center of hole & drill a pilot hole for the 1'' holesaw. if you use the right size washer,bigger than the hole but smaller than the 1'' holesaw ,it will save from grinding the tacks back down.

[lavron]

What are you working on?

It will be a bit before I actually start working on it but it is the MII crossmember. The lower A-arm holes are 1/2" so they have to go up to 5/8" for the bolt in the tubular arms, the spacer that came with the arms is about a 1" pipe (I need to measure it) with a 5/8" hole through it, instead of cutting it in two and welding one part between the front and rear faces of the crossmember and then the other half behind the rear face I thought it would be stronger to leave the pipe spacer as one piece going through the rear. I hope that makes sense.

It is a WelderSeries crossmember so it is not folded and welded yet so I thought it would be easier to enlarge the holes with everything is still flat. I wish they sold them with the 5/8" already there but I guess it is easier to drill the hole bigger than to make it smaller (stock arms use a 1/2" bolt, tubular arms that eliminate the strut rod use 5/8" bolts) The bigger hole for the spacer to pass through is my own idea but seemed like a better, stronger idea

I can try to take a picture tomorrow to show what I am talking about.

If it is really critical you could take it to a shop don't think it would be more that $10.00 a hole.

Might be the cheapest route, big bits are not cheap unless I go to HF Tools and I might get this one job done with them before I break them.

https://www.harborfreight.com/silver-an ... 61802.html

See Ya,
Mike

[Loner]

After thinking about it I edited my post.Your right it is a lot stronger your way. Also easier to keep everything square and lined up for proper alinement. Im thinking there should also be a couple of gussets for the side that sticks out.


Matt

[lavron]

Im thinking there should also be a couple of gussets for the side that sticks out.

There are, plus I think I will brace up to the frame there as well instead just having the crossmember take all the stress.

See Ya,
Mike

[redhotcomet]

"If you need a machine and don’t buy it, then you will ultimately find that you have paid for it and don’t have it." -Henry Ford

[lavron]

Here are a few pictures;



This is the crossmember and one lower arm, the upper part is the rear/top and the lower is the front/bottom. The two tabs on the rear part are the rack mount tabs, the spacer/pipe is between the bushings on the arm in this picture.



1/2" holes that need enlarged at least to 5/8" but I want to do the rear one larger.



This is the spacer, I know I said it was an 1" earlier but it is more like 1 1/4" it is solid steel.



This shows approx. where the gusset mounts and I will add a gusset up to the frame as well because that is an awful lot hanging out behind, the plastic ruler is where the front crossmember plate would be positioned. I will have to grind the spacer a hair shorter for everything to fit before it is welded.

I didn't get instructions with this because I buy brand name quality parts (that is a joke, there were instructions with the cross member, not the arms) but most out on the net show people/instructions cutting the spacer but like I said if I could leave it whole it looks like it would be stronger, might not matter, all things considered, but it just seemed to make sense to enlarge the rear hole so the spacer would slip through and then weld it.

Hope all that makes sense

See Ya,
Mike

[Loner]

Looks doable from here. I would drill it out to 1-1/4 that way you have a bit of movement to square it up before welding it. The 5/8 hole is easy the 1-1/4 takes a good drill press to do that one right and safe. I would have a shop do it if I didn't own the proper tools for the job.

Matt

[joem]

I would get a quality holesaw. Cut the hole in a piece of 3/4" plywood then clamp to the steel where you want the hole and drill away using the plywood as a guide.

[StPro]

Tack weld a piece of steel on the back side remark the center and drill with the correct hole saw . If you need a real accurate hole use a compass scribe your new hole use the next undersized hole saw and then finish with a die grinder and a half round file.

[Rocket989]

If you have a 1/2" pilot hole, I'm with Pop...dump some oil on and use one of these:

https://www.zoro.com/milwaukee-drill-bi ... gL0UvD_BwE

Shucks, do 3/4, then 1-inch...just go slow & watch the bit!