Sassy's Steering
Re: Sassy's Steering
http://www.tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ng+perches
So, I looked at that book, similar to a NOVEL in size !,, scanned the pics and checked the page count. That boy can type with ALL his fingers!!
Promise I will read it,, just not today
Fred
So, I looked at that book, similar to a NOVEL in size !,, scanned the pics and checked the page count. That boy can type with ALL his fingers!!
Promise I will read it,, just not today
Fred
Re: Sassy's Steering
I have the Daze roller perches and yeah they are a pain! Lookin good Fred!
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- Posts: 1870
- Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2012 6:47 am
- Location: Lake Placid, Florida
Re: Sassy's Steering
For what it's worth, these worked well for me.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk- ... gL3WvD_BwE
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk- ... gL3WvD_BwE
66 Cyclone GT; 245/60R15's on 15x8's and 215/70R15's on 15x7 Magnum's.
There's nothing like the sound of a pushrod V8 singing at the top of her lung's.
There's nothing like the sound of a pushrod V8 singing at the top of her lung's.
Re: Sassy's Steering
Hey Stacey, are these a knock off of the early Comet perches with bushings? Price is right.
Think I will do something like the cutouts that Johno referenced.
Fred
Think I will do something like the cutouts that Johno referenced.
Fred
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- Posts: 1870
- Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2012 6:47 am
- Location: Lake Placid, Florida
Re: Sassy's Steering
I bought them for the 64.5 up Stang. Here is the description and they are smooth.
Now available from Scott Drake, these 1964.5-73 Mustang High Performance Coil Spring Perches offer a very affordable upgrade to stock spring perches with rubber bushings. These are made with synthetic elastomer bushings which are similar to polyurethane in performance and longevity, but will not squeak like polyurethane. The perch can rotate 360 degrees on the shaft, which allows the front suspension to articulate freely. This feature also eases the installation of the coil spring. Zerk grease fittings are installed and locking nuts are included.
Now available from Scott Drake, these 1964.5-73 Mustang High Performance Coil Spring Perches offer a very affordable upgrade to stock spring perches with rubber bushings. These are made with synthetic elastomer bushings which are similar to polyurethane in performance and longevity, but will not squeak like polyurethane. The perch can rotate 360 degrees on the shaft, which allows the front suspension to articulate freely. This feature also eases the installation of the coil spring. Zerk grease fittings are installed and locking nuts are included.
66 Cyclone GT; 245/60R15's on 15x8's and 215/70R15's on 15x7 Magnum's.
There's nothing like the sound of a pushrod V8 singing at the top of her lung's.
There's nothing like the sound of a pushrod V8 singing at the top of her lung's.
Re: Sassy's Steering
That 5 minutes will probably save you a half hour at least ! If you have some of the nuts with a shoulder/washer with the gripper/locking edges on bottom would really make it easier,save fumbling with washers.
Re: Sassy's Steering
So got one side done and just the install to do on the other.
Based on input from Johno I added the cutouts for easier access to the shock bolts. Helps a lot with the inner bolt but I still had to use a combination wrench for the outer bolt cause he UCA interfered with the socket landing on the nut.
I built the first one basically like the article I linked, grinding the tube out and center punching the shaft for the inner bearing location.
I didn't like the center punch deal and after I welded the tube to the perch the bearings didn't fit so I'd had enough of the that. I mounted a zip disk. Inserted the bearings and welded up the slot. Short bursts with the welder and cooling with a spritz bottle kept the seals happy.
The second one I cut a piece of tube I had laying around and plug welded it to the shaft giving a positive stop for the bearing inner mount.
The tubing for the perch had already been ground some but I just slit it open and did the same as the first one.
Install was easy and will load pics of the other install, forgot to take pics of this one. I use a block of wood to hold the upper, can be seen a bit in the last pic here. Remove the 2 lower shock bolts and the 3 bolts holding the upper shock mount on and lifted out the assembly. I have an inner spring compressor so I just used the lower leg and a plate across the upper shock base and pulled the spring up then RNR d the perch. The old perch had those fancy little rubber pads for the spring so I drilled a coupe holes and moved the pads. So now strut rods. Posted in the wanted section that I need one more but no luck so guess it's off to Ebay.
later
Fred
Based on input from Johno I added the cutouts for easier access to the shock bolts. Helps a lot with the inner bolt but I still had to use a combination wrench for the outer bolt cause he UCA interfered with the socket landing on the nut.
I built the first one basically like the article I linked, grinding the tube out and center punching the shaft for the inner bearing location.
I didn't like the center punch deal and after I welded the tube to the perch the bearings didn't fit so I'd had enough of the that. I mounted a zip disk. Inserted the bearings and welded up the slot. Short bursts with the welder and cooling with a spritz bottle kept the seals happy.
The second one I cut a piece of tube I had laying around and plug welded it to the shaft giving a positive stop for the bearing inner mount.
The tubing for the perch had already been ground some but I just slit it open and did the same as the first one.
Install was easy and will load pics of the other install, forgot to take pics of this one. I use a block of wood to hold the upper, can be seen a bit in the last pic here. Remove the 2 lower shock bolts and the 3 bolts holding the upper shock mount on and lifted out the assembly. I have an inner spring compressor so I just used the lower leg and a plate across the upper shock base and pulled the spring up then RNR d the perch. The old perch had those fancy little rubber pads for the spring so I drilled a coupe holes and moved the pads. So now strut rods. Posted in the wanted section that I need one more but no luck so guess it's off to Ebay.
later
Fred
Re: Sassy's Steering
Man what an adventure! Looking good Fred.
The way I did mine was...ummm...click. Buy. Open beer. Wait. Install
I know I know. Hotrodding. Do it yourself. I know.
Joe
The way I did mine was...ummm...click. Buy. Open beer. Wait. Install
I know I know. Hotrodding. Do it yourself. I know.
Joe
Re: Sassy's Steering
Yea that outer one is easy, but with it cut out like that makes it easier getting the nut & all the washers on. & the back one is the pain. it was easier if I started it first ,just barely start the nut on,then start the outer,then bring each one down together or else it would jam the nut if I ran one down all the way before the other. after looking at your pics it's coming back to me exactly what the p!sser was .
Re: Sassy's Steering
Started mocking up front end with the adjustable strut rods, got one from LipRipper and one plus the bushing kit from Melvins.
The one I got from Lip didn't have the steering stop so I cut one off the non-adjustable rods and welded it on to make it the same as the one from Melvins.
I modified the lower control arm frame mount so it can swing forward for more caster, but I still may cut the bushing off and mount a rod end.
The concern I'm having is the angle of the sway bar link, it will be worse than in the pics once it is completely mounted.
I'm thinking of moving the bar or the mount hole in the lower to solve the problem, any input?
The one I got from Lip didn't have the steering stop so I cut one off the non-adjustable rods and welded it on to make it the same as the one from Melvins.
I modified the lower control arm frame mount so it can swing forward for more caster, but I still may cut the bushing off and mount a rod end.
The concern I'm having is the angle of the sway bar link, it will be worse than in the pics once it is completely mounted.
I'm thinking of moving the bar or the mount hole in the lower to solve the problem, any input?
Re: Sassy's Steering
I remember my swaybar links looking crazy, but I think it is worse with the suspension hanging.They should be ok. you might just snug it up real good ,then put some weight on & tighten the rest of the way. also need to wait about tightening the LCA bushings if you keep them until the weight is on.
Re: Sassy's Steering
Thanks for the input Johnno. I'll leave any decision on the anti sway bar till after settings are close. I plan to load the front end to ride height by blocking under the ball joint but leaving the jack stands in place. I have access to an alignment tool but it needs to be on the steel wheel lip so I'll just mount a rotor and wheel for starters. The car is so low and no access to a 4 post this should save a ton of jacking up and down during final adjustments.
Fred
Fred
Re: Sassy's Steering
Today I started working toward a wheel alignment. I got the car down on its wheels and moved it around a bit, took some measurements and put it back up on jack stands. I put stands under the rear housing and measured from the tire to the floor then set the front of the car at the proper relative height. then pulled out the shocks and springs out and set the front wheels at the same height to the floor as the back ones. This allows me to play with all the settings.
With all the changes that have been done I was wondering what kind of caster range I was going to get so I assembled the struts with them pulling the lower control arm as far forward as possible. Using a Fastrax wheel alignment tool the initial caster reading was about 11 degrees!!! There are a couple of problems though, even the 22 inch front tires on the car hit the front of the fender opening and the camber went positive even with all the shims out. I backed it down to about 7degrees caster but the camber is still positive maybe 1/2 a degree, so I think it might be time to shorten the upper control arms.
I have about 2 inches of bump travel to the snubbers at ride height with about 1degree negative camber gain so the initial setting needs to be 1/2 to 1 degree negative(but I need to do a bit more reading on this). I also need to look at lowering the UCR chassis mount, thinking about roll centers and camber gain,, more reading I will certainly listen to any input anyone may have.
Fred
With all the changes that have been done I was wondering what kind of caster range I was going to get so I assembled the struts with them pulling the lower control arm as far forward as possible. Using a Fastrax wheel alignment tool the initial caster reading was about 11 degrees!!! There are a couple of problems though, even the 22 inch front tires on the car hit the front of the fender opening and the camber went positive even with all the shims out. I backed it down to about 7degrees caster but the camber is still positive maybe 1/2 a degree, so I think it might be time to shorten the upper control arms.
I have about 2 inches of bump travel to the snubbers at ride height with about 1degree negative camber gain so the initial setting needs to be 1/2 to 1 degree negative(but I need to do a bit more reading on this). I also need to look at lowering the UCR chassis mount, thinking about roll centers and camber gain,, more reading I will certainly listen to any input anyone may have.
Fred
Re: Sassy's Steering
Hey Fred I can’t help you on the settings but I’m sure I’ll be there soon enough to ask YOU! I’m thinking of getting that FastTrax alignment tool as well...what do you think of it??
I imagined the fenders would be a problem with the wheel adjustments and any kind of decent tire width.
Watching your progress closely!
Joe
I imagined the fenders would be a problem with the wheel adjustments and any kind of decent tire width.
Watching your progress closely!
Joe