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[DesertFox]

Hello All,

I bought a complete set-up for a Ford toploader transmission, from the flywheel back to the drive shaft for a 1965 Mercury Comet. Converting from an auto to a 4-speed. Having trouble getting the trans input shaft into the crankshaft bearing. Everything goes together, but I cannot seem to marry the trans to the bell housing. I have about 5/8 of an inch before they connect/touch.

My bell housing number is D20A 6394 AA, but should be a C5DA 6394 A. Both are for a 157 tooth flywheel; correct? Appears they are interchangeable and the one I have should work. Bolts right up to my motor using 6 bolts, no issues. Not sure if my motor is a 289 or 302. Just cannot seem to push the trans in all the way up to the bell housing.
Are all input shaft retainers the same length? The pipe on the retainer that is? Could this be my problem?

Thanks. Roger 208-442-0073

[b.guggenmos]

It sounds like the clutch disc may not be lined up properly to pilot bearing? Did you use some type of alignment tool? An old input shaft works the best. Just a thought on your problem. Brian

[Comechero65]

Both of those bh are basically the same just different years. You should be using either the standard bronze pilot bushing or the late model roller bearing. Either should fit the input shaft. The input shaft on the trans should be correct at about 6 1/2" The bearing retainer should also be the correct length. It can be tough sometimes getting the pilot and the retainer to line up at the same time. It helps to install a couple long headless bolt in the bh to help guide the trans into place. Hopefully you used a cltuch alignment tool when bolting the clutch in place.
https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/ ... 729-1.html

Bronze bushing:
https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/ ... 874-1.html

Needle bearing:
https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/ ... 028-1.html
Ron

[ants875]

Did you happen to test the pilot bushing /bearing on the Trans before install? Whatever you do DO NOT use the Trans bolts to force it into the bell housing!!!! I have seen more then 1 broken Trans from guys doing that.

Ant

[DesertFox]

Thanks for all the help and advice. Yes, I used a clutch alignment tool supplied in the kit. I removed the pressure and clutch plate. Will attempt to dry fit the input shaft to the bushing. I did check before installing the bushing that it fit the input shaft. I'm sure it is just off a hair, alignment that is.

[ants875]

It could be that the bellhousing is not quite aligned for the input shaft to hit the pilot right, you will be able to see that with the pressure plate out of the way. It's not to common of a problem but I have seen it before.

Ant

[DesertFox]

Comechero65 or Ron,

I'm happy to report the 4-speed is in and all bolts are tight. Fits like a glove. I think the bushing was just too close of a fit, but with one drop of oil it went right in. Then I put the pressure and clutch plate, and the bell housing back on. It fought me a little, but when I wasn't even trying it popped right in. Thanks for all of your help. You provided some sounds advice and assistance with finding the right parts. The brake power booster (6 1/2 inches) you suggested earlier in another post worked like a charm. Now I need to cut the hole in the floor and the rest should be easy.

[Comechero65]

Comechero65 or Ron,

I'm happy to report the 4-speed is in and all bolts are tight. Fits like a glove. I think the bushing was just too close of a fit, but with one drop of oil it went right in. Then I put the pressure and clutch plate, and the bell housing back on. It fought me a little, but when I wasn't even trying it popped right in. Thanks for all of your help. You provided some sounds advice and assistance with finding the right parts. The brake power booster (6 1/2 inches) you suggested earlier in another post worked like a charm. Now I need to cut the hole in the floor and the rest should be easy.

Sometimes it can be cantankerous getting it to slip into place. So you got the ABS booster? That's what I installed and works perfectly. did you install the bronze bushing or the ford needle bearing? Many years ago I installed an mustang version srod in my mustang and I used a generic bearing from the local supply house. It was thinner than the bushing and allowed me some extra clearance.
Comethead (Joe) did post when he cut the hole in the floor for the hump. I probably have some pics of his as he did it. I can upload them if it would help. Good work.
Ron

[DesertFox]

Not sure what you are referring too; "bronze needle bushing". Are you referring to the pilot shaft bushing? If so, I used the old standard bronze bushing. After I had installed it, I was pulling out the pressure plate of the box and noticed the roller bearing. Had I seen it, I would have installed it. All is still good. I will never put enough miles on the car to wear anything out. Have not tried the brakes yet, but I'm sure they will work fine. When things are mechanical rather than electronic things are pretty basic and easy to figure out. Especially when you have some help. Yes, any photos you might have sure could not hurt. Thanks for the offer and help. Roger

[Comechero65]

Not sure what you are referring too; "bronze needle bushing". Are you referring to the pilot shaft bushing? If so, I used the old standard bronze bushing. After I had installed it, I was pulling out the pressure plate of the box and noticed the roller bearing. Had I seen it, I would have installed it. All is still good. I will never put enough miles on the car to wear anything out. Have not tried the brakes yet, but I'm sure they will work fine. When things are mechanical rather than electronic things are pretty basic and easy to figure out. Especially when you have some help. Yes, any photos you might have sure could not hurt. Thanks for the offer and help. Roger

I said 'bronze bushing' not bronze needle bushing. You used the old original style bronze bushing which is ok. The other choice is the late model needle bearing. I think I posted a link to both further up this page.
I ran a generic roller bearing pilot in my 66 mustang and never had any problem with it the whole time I drove it.

Here's how Joe did his. Locate the hump as far forward as you can so the rear lip just overlaps the spot welds along the front of the crossmember. Factory 4 speeds came with a re-enforcing strip along the edge pf the opening to make the edge stronger. still works without it. Mine has that strip because it was a 4 speed from the factory.

Ron

[popscomet]

YOU KNOW,,it's been many years since I changed my 64 over to a 4spd from an AT,,,,but I did NOT cut near that big of hole in my hump and I used the factory metal off set,,the hole in mine is just barely enuff for the shifter to work,why cut such a big hole ?? pop

[Comechero65]

YOU KNOW,,it's been many years since I changed my 64 over to a 4spd from an AT,,,,but I did NOT cut near that big of hole in my hump and I used the factory metal off set,,the hole in mine is just barely enuff for the shifter to work,why cut such a big hole ?? pop

That's the way ford cut the hole. Just enough overlap so it can be screwed on and sealed.
Ron

[DesertFox]

I tired to attach a photo, but could not as the board attachment quota had been reached. This was my comment.

This is the center transmission tunnel with the hump I plan to use. Purchased this "hump" from a friend and assume it is a Ford factory item (50 year old original part), but from what model of Ford I do not know. Assume it is for a Comet. As you can see the hole will be cut much smaller than the photo you provided. I hope all will work. My friend did the same auto to manual swap on his 1965 Comet, but his shifter mounted further back on the tail shaft. Believe he used a Mustang 4-speed. Again, thanks for all of your help. Great talking with all of you. Roger, Ret USAF

[Jims65cyclone]

Roger...you have to use a photo host like Photobucket. Here are the instructions on how it works:
http://www.cometcentral.com/forum/viewt ... f=1&t=2448

The size of the hump should dictate the size of the hole. You don't want to have a hump that's significantly larger than the hole you cut. If so, it will create a pocket on the lower side that can trap dirt and water.

[popscomet]

YOU KNOW,,it's been many years since I changed my 64 over to a 4spd from an AT,,,,but I did NOT cut near that big of hole in my hump and I used the factory metal off set,,the hole in mine is just barely enuff for the shifter to work,why cut such a big hole ?? pop

That's the way ford cut the hole. Just enough overlap so it can be screwed on and sealed.
Ron

well that may be so ! but I still say a big hole is a waste.....of course like ROY would say,THATS JMO !!!!....pop