65 Cyclone Steering Issue

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65 Cyclone Steering Issue

Postby Red65Cyclone » Fri Aug 25, 2017 7:49 am

I've replaced my steering column and I have an issue with the fit. I can't seem to get the tube up far enough to close the gap at the steering wheel adapter. (I think it is a Grant wheel) The box I removed was an HCC AM1 with a June 65 build date and the new one has no tag. The distance from the steering box to the end of the shaft is 33 3/4". The tube is 31" and the tube to the collar is 31 7/8". If I close the gap on the tube to adapter the clamp under the dash is crushing the wires. The whole thing acts like it steering shaft is too long. Do I have the wrong shaft or tube or adapter or what? Given the things I've found the previous owner did wrong, nothing surprises me any more. Thanks for any help.

Don
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Re: 65 Cyclone Steering Issue

Postby Comechero65 » Fri Aug 25, 2017 11:43 am

According to Stangersite the HCC AM1 is 39" long and about the shortest year. Always wondered how they got that measurement as mine should be the same and to get that measument on mine measures from the end of the shaft to the hole plug on the box not the true length of only the shaft.
Use any other year or one from an early mustang column tube and you can cut to fit. Someone either changed the shaft in that box or cut the tube.
Ron
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Re: 65 Cyclone Steering Issue

Postby popscomet » Fri Aug 25, 2017 9:15 pm

WHEN I went to a 4spd from the AT,,I used a mustang tube and hack sawed to fit.........pop
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Re: 65 Cyclone Steering Issue

Postby popscomet » Fri Aug 25, 2017 9:16 pm

popscomet wrote:WHEN I went to a 4spd from the AT,,I used a mustang tube and hack sawed to fit.........pop

and also when I changed to a 4spd on my 67 fairlane
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Re: 65 Cyclone Steering Issue

Postby poboyjo65 » Fri Aug 25, 2017 9:18 pm

Red65Cyclone wrote:I've replaced my steering column and I have an issue with the fit. I can't seem to get the tube up far enough to close the gap at the steering wheel adapter. (I think it is a Grant wheel) The box I removed was an HCC AM1 with a June 65 build date and the new one has no tag. The distance from the steering box to the end of the shaft is 33 3/4". The tube is 31" and the tube to the collar is 31 7/8". If I close the gap on the tube to adapter the clamp under the dash is crushing the wires. The whole thing acts like it steering shaft is too long. Do I have the wrong shaft or tube or adapter or what? Given the things I've found the previous owner did wrong, nothing surprises me any more. Thanks for any help.

Don


I have a steering box from a 65 comet dismantled. shaft is 39'' from end to end. since you dont have a tag to identify it you'll have to measure, I understand that, but I dont know where you put your tape measure. You didnt mention how big your gap is,or where on the box you put the tape. some shafts are 39.5'' & 40'' for other years. so if your gap is 1/2'' or more you may have the wrong box.but it still could be the aftermarket s wheel. I can mock up the box & help you measure the shaft if you want,but tell me first where to put the tape. the body of the box to end of shaft would be best place to put the tape instead of the bearing retainer that the shaft comes thru. My bottom of tube to top of collar was 31 7/8'' like yours.
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Re: 65 Cyclone Steering Issue

Postby Red65Cyclone » Sat Aug 26, 2017 6:32 am

I have a steering box from a 65 comet dismantled. shaft is 39'' from end to end. since you dont have a tag to identify it you'll have to measure, I understand that, but I dont know where you put your tape measure. You didn't mention how big your gap is,or where on the box you put the tape. some shafts are 39.5'' & 40'' for other years. so if your gap is 1/2'' or more you may have the wrong box.but it still could be the aftermarket s wheel. I can mock up the box & help you measure the shaft if you want,but tell me first where to put the tape. the body of the box to end of shaft would be best place to put the tape instead of the bearing retainer that the shaft comes thru. My bottom of tube to top of collar was 31 7/8'' like yours.[/quote]

Depending on how I locate the tube, the gap is 1"-2". I measured the input shaft from the box where the shaft comes out to the end of the threads. Basically, the visible portion of the shaft.
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Re: 65 Cyclone Steering Issue

Postby Rocket989 » Sat Aug 26, 2017 7:06 am

About 2" would probably make it a 'Stang box...there should be casting numbers on the box housing that'll help ID to some extent... Easiest thing is as noted above...cut longer column tube to fit.

Though man...with stock seat tracks a wheel 2 inches closer...I couldn't get in the car!! :shock: :lol: I'd love 2 inches SHORTER in fact!

It's possible to switch input shafts between boxes of the same ratio and type but since it, the bearings, and the rack block wear together I'd be very careful doing that!!
'cause Johno says you gotta have a sig pic!! :)
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Re: 65 Cyclone Steering Issue

Postby Comechero65 » Sat Aug 26, 2017 12:50 pm

If you have the correct box for a 65 it is probably the shortest shaft (39") used in any year. The best you can do is get a longer column tube and cut it to length. A tube from an early mustang is longer and may be about right for yours. Might have to cut a little off. It is possible to cut the shaft, add a coupling to make it shorter though.
I needed more leg room and belly room so I moved my seats back 4" which worked out for me. Of course I had to remove the shelf from below the back window as it was in the way. All early rancheros had a shelf under the rear window. It was there partially to help hide the spare tire other wise it served no purpose other than to collect dust and crap. Drilled out 40+ spot welds to remove it.
Installed a Mustang GT woodgrain steering wheel which was about the same depth as the original wheel but a little smaller OD which helped get it away from my lap.
Ron
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Re: 65 Cyclone Steering Issue

Postby Rocket989 » Sat Aug 26, 2017 1:32 pm

JMO but if ya cut it I would only use one the "D" couplers and STILL might tack it in a couple places on both sides of the coupler!! :lol: :mrgreen: Ideally it gets cut and re-splined and re-threaded.
'cause Johno says you gotta have a sig pic!! :)
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Re: 65 Cyclone Steering Issue

Postby Comechero65 » Sat Aug 26, 2017 2:18 pm

If you cut the shaft you could reshape the two shft ends Double D and use a Double D coupler for the 3/4" shaft. Reshaping Double D is easier than adding splines. I would bolt them and tack weld it as well just for insurance.
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Re: 65 Cyclone Steering Issue

Postby poboyjo65 » Sat Aug 26, 2017 3:01 pm

Red65Cyclone wrote:
Depending on how I locate the tube, the gap is 1"-2". I measured the input shaft from the box where the shaft comes out to the end of the threads. Basically, the visible portion of the shaft.


If you measured only the visible part of the shaft, I suspect you have a 40'' shaft which isn't that much longer. It would be easy enough to move the seat mounts back an inch or so if it was a hindrance.the shaft of my old box measures 39'' exactly from end to end.Today I mocked up my old box which is HCC AM1 from a 65 comet. I put both bearings in & screwed on the top ''bearing retainer'' or what ever it is called & measured from end of shaft to the bearing retainer & it is a tad over 32 3/4'',, an inch shorter than your measurement. I dont think I'd cut the shaft for an inch. you could change where your wires exit the tube, wouldn't be too hard to do & extend the lower part of the tube,or fill in that gap with a thick piece of rubber or something,,, or just get another tube.
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Re: 65 Cyclone Steering Issue

Postby Red65Cyclone » Mon Aug 28, 2017 7:26 am

If you measured only the visible part of the shaft, I suspect you have a 40'' shaft which isn't that much longer. It would be easy enough to move the seat mounts back an inch or so if it was a hindrance.the shaft of my old box measures 39'' exactly from end to end.Today I mocked up my old box which is HCC AM1 from a 65 comet. I put both bearings in & screwed on the top ''bearing retainer'' or what ever it is called & measured from end of shaft to the bearing retainer & it is a tad over 32 3/4'',, an inch shorter than your measurement. I don't think I'd cut the shaft for an inch. you could change where your wires exit the tube, wouldn't be too hard to do & extend the lower part of the tube,or fill in that gap with a thick piece of rubber or something,,, or just get another tube.
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Since the the box I just installed is a fresh $310 dollar reman I'm reluctant to cut it up. I got a hold of the garage that ordered it for me and gave him all the information. I haven't heard back yet. AS for length, I think the short shaft version is what I need. I hope I get this puzzle solved soon. I would like to put the engine back in and drive before it snows. Thanks for all the help from everyone.

Don
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