COMET CENTRAL

Since I have jigged the 64-5 spindle I thought I should throw up some pics of the exact difference between the two.
First is the C3 spindle this one has the top balljoint mount modified but isn't relevant to the difference explained here.
the jig shows positively the difference in not only height but also what I think is the ackerman location of the tierod.
The third pic shows how far out to the edge of the mount plate the tierod mount is.

Pics 4-5-6 show the C5 spindle and the difference in tierod location.

Great pictures Fred.

See Ya,
Mike

Fred that's great! we didnt have any 63/64 V8 spindle pics or comparisons . I put a copy of your pics on the first page with the rest of the pics just to make it easier to see everything on the same page. Also put a copy of lomans pic up there. If anyone sees any mistakes , mislabeled pics or to add other informative tech links speak up & I'll edit a copy of it up on page one. Just seems better to have a copy of all the pics,links & general info up front & easy to find.

Good job Johno

SASSY wrote:Good job Johno

Thanks & back at ya Fredo !

Can anybody tell me what the difference is between a 65 V8 spindle and a 65 6 cylinder spindle. I've been putting miles on my car and I had a front outer wheel bearing go bad
The inner race looks like it has a bushing installed to fit on a smaller diameter spindle shaft. The car came with disc brakes up front but I don't know what they are.
The rotor measures 10.25" diameter. I can read the numbers on the bearings to come up with the right bearing but I have know idea what rotor to get or brake shoes at this point.
thanks
tom

Tom if you look at the 1st pic of 3 spindles on pg 1 of this thread, (with the wood wall in the background) I think the first one is early 6 cylinder. it does look like it has a smaller shaft than the others & straight tierod arm & not dropped like the others. look & see if yours is straight armed like it.

Here is a picture of my spindle John. The arm drops an inch and goes back about 3.50 inches. It looks like it has the small diameter shaft.



thanks for looking
tom

Tom it looks like the first one of the comparison pic on page one. look for a part number on the spindles & maybe you can find out what they fit. You might try the bearings for a 6 cyl car ,or inquire the specs of bearings for the 6cyl cars. but I dont know, just guessing here. As for the rotors & pads , they ''may'' be from scarebird . I've heard they make a disc brake kit for 6 cyl cars. maybe someone who has them will chime in. or maybe you could check with the company & see if they look like them.

Your probably right John. That picture shows the notch in the shaft on top and that is the only picture I've seen that has that.
I did get the new bearings and had to remove the bushing in the old one and install it in the new one so it fits on the shaft. The brake pads turned out to be GM Have no idea what the rotor is, but it's getting machined so this time around I will have it fixed pretty easy.

I will be looking for a new front suspension kit that will give it a better ride and a sharper turning radius. If anybody can recommend a name brand that would be awesome.
So far I've been looking at Height's, TCI and Southern Rods & Parts.
thanks
tom

tomb22 wrote: I will be looking for a new front suspension kit that will give it a better ride and a sharper turning radius. If anybody can recommend a name brand that would be awesome.
So far I've been looking at Height's, TCI and Southern Rods & Parts.
thanks
tom

what type are you thinking about? strut? The rack & pinion that you have is what is limiting your turning radius. so a MII wont help that aspect because they're all R&P. shortening the spindle arms would help it turn sharper but you gotta be ballsy like Fred to muck with those!

I've been looking at TCI and Height's complete kit with coil over shocks disk brakes and mustang ll R&P. Hoping that their R&P has a stock turning radius. That would be one of the first questions I'll ask them and what needs to be done with the headers.
Your right that the R&P I have is limiting my turning radius. I can put my finger in between the spindle stops when the wheel is fully turned.
I called Unisteer to find out if they came up with anything new to help that problem. The guy told me I'm stuck with what I got. So I was hoping a mustang ll R&P would be better. There has to be a R&P that has more travel in the rods.

I'm also looking for a better ride up front. My rear rides so nice with the 4 link and the adjustable shocks.
You have any ideas?
tom

tomb22 wrote: The guy told me I'm stuck with what I got. So I was hoping a mustang ll R&P would be better. There has to be a R&P that has more travel in the rods.

I'm also looking for a better ride up front.
tom

I think the problem is comets are just so narrow. I dont think there is a rack that has more travel without being too wide for the car. As for an MII,I wouldn't think you would want to pull the motor back out to weld in a crossmember .



what's wrong with the ride? what shocks do you have? are they like your rears?
there are lots & lots of aftermarket support for early stangs suspension. depending on what you want from the car & how much you want to spend. crusier,drag,curve carver .

I put new V8 coil springs in the front with new Monroe shocks. Installed new lower control arms and did the Shelby drop a long with a 1 1/8" anti roll bar. Looks like the spindles are original 6 cylinder with some sort of disk brake kit that uses GM brake pads with a 10" rotor. The only 10" rotor I came up with was a 65 Shelby Mustang????
I also installed that Unisteer R&P which I didn't thoroughly check out to know I was going to loose so much turning radius.
Maybe I can get some nice Viking adjustable shocks up front like the ones I have in the back. Do they make adjustable coil over shocks that fit in a comet?
My whole goal was to have a nice looking, good sounding cruiser. People love the car and how it sounds, but I wish it road better up front and turned sharper. It has a choppy ride up front when driving on a bumpy road.
I wouldn't be opposed to pulling the motor and welding in a new cross member to make it all happen.
tom

Yea Better shocks would help a lot.Your frontend is jealous of the rear! & with adjustable ones ,surely you could dial it in to suit you.
Do you still have your old steering box? that would get your turning radius back. why did you go with R&P ? to get PS? It's probably the same rack as a MII. if you put your old box back in ,eps would be a on the cheap.