COMET CENTRAL

So this is the first post on my steering mods.
Finally got some time to get at converting to '65 steering in Sassy.

The stock linkage came out pretty easy so I pulled the new stuff out of the boxes to compare,,,, PROBLEM!
After going over my parts orders and looking at images it appears I need to use a late 67-70 Mustang POWER steering pitman arm.
I ordered one for manual steering.
Looking for anyone who can confirm this.
Fred

Yep that's what it says on the stanger site,, & it has part numbers , (2)
http://www.stangerssite.com/pitmanarms.html

Thanks Johno

x2...I’m pretty sure the ‘67-‘70 ‘Stang/Cougar stuff is all the same... Well, pitman arms anyway!

Here’s one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1969 ... 6061!US!-1

Rocket989 wrote:x2...I’m pretty sure the ‘67-‘70 ‘Stang/Cougar stuff is all the same... Well, pitman arms anyway!

Here’s one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1969 ... 6061!US!-1

Cougar and Mustang are the same. I used the C7ZA-3590-C on my Comet which according to the Stanger.net chart is the same as the eBay pitman arm that Rocket posted. I needed the 1 1/18” sector spline to match the Cougar box I’m using.
Jim

Thanks guys, the guy I ordered from is taking the return even though the sale was a couple months ago so I told him I would by from him if he can supply.
Fred

Are you staying in the frozen North this Winter Fred? The 64 to 65 steering should be a nice upgrade. The 64 steering is weird. Hope all is well? Brian

Hey Brian, good to see you posting! Ya staying put this winter, gonna spend the money discovering BC more next year.
Love BC but since we moved here haven't been exploring it enough.

In other news, thanks Rocket for posting the eBay link, I ended up buying that one as the other fellow couldn't supply.
Should be here Friday so gonna finally be able to do something.
Fred

Has been a happy morning in the COLD garage(snowed last night),no heat yet.
Picked up the pitman arm yesterday so this morn I put all my new stuff under the car.
No pan interference, in fact plenty of clearance for quick steer stuff should I find a 1inch sector Sbox.
Because the draglink is in line with the pitman and idler arms instead of the inner tierod ends it increases clearance to the oil pan sump and when turning the inner tierods sweep back away from the pan. So dont have to cut the pan,, again
Will post a link later where Im getting my lead but building roller spring perches, and adjustable strut rods.
Next will pull spindles out and mod them further to duplicate 65 outer tierod location.
Pics to follow.
Fred

On the left is a c5 spindle one of which I bought from RedhotComet.
On the right is my moded c3. It is very obvious how much lower the tierod mount is on the c5.
So that is the goal, lower the c3 tierod mount, also shorten the distance from the ball joint mount to the tierod mount, at least 1 inch.
Fred

built a simple jig to hold the spindles. to my surprise the same jig worked for both sides.
A piece of angle welded square to the plate two bolts through the spindle with the nuts welded to the angle.
That stud laying on the plate is to help explain the ball joint mount.
The stud was used back in circle track days to mount Munroe racing shocks that had rod ends.
We just cut tierod mounts off old spindles and welded them to control arms where we wanted the shock.

The taper on that stud isn't perfect for the balljoint but it sits solid in the spindle.
The thread on it is 1/2x20 so I just grabbed an old lug nut to mount it.
The bolt through the tierod mount is just for height, isn't welded but will be for the C3 spindle mod.

The right side C3 spindle went under the knife tonight, well grinder. Fit is close enough as it has to be ground back for full weld penetration anyway.

Making the arm an inch shorter as just what I needed to have the material to get down to the C5 spindle tierod mount height.

Cool beans Fred

See Ya,
Mike

Looking good Fred. And I presume you're making adjustable strut rods. For what it's worth, I used the Scott Drake version for the 65 Mustangs. All I had to do was open up the frame hole a little in the front. Sho is easy to crank up the caster now. I put 2 1/2 + on the left and 3 degrees on the right. I've noticed that whenever I'm pushing the car in or out it wants to quickly straighten the wheels back to center now.

Stacey

Thanks Ripper. Gonna build my own adjustable struts, got some ideas and will check out Scott's stuff too.
Like the sound of your caster settings I'm looking for 3ish as well.
Also roller spring perches, gonna use this tutorial I think.
/RollerSpringPerch/https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2005/12index.php
Fred