Sassy's Steering

[SASSY]

So I've been starring at the end of this strut rod for a while thinking there has to be a simple CHEAP way I can do this myself?
Really, how far does the strut rod have to go forward to create a significant change in caster? Anyone?
How about threading the large area of the shaft down say 3 inches and install a lock nut, drill out the rear washer so it rests against the nut. Enlarge the ID of the donuts and sleeve them with a tube for the proper compression length. Then it's justa matter of washering the front nut till it tightens the tube in the donuts.
What am I missing?
Fred
PS
Think I'll stay with the stock lowers (maybe reinforce like Jim did) but to allow for the increased caster I will enlarge one hole in both the strut rod to LCR mount and LCR to frame mount.
Then add a heavy washer at the enlarged hole that can be tack welded after adjustment cause, really how many times am I gonna change it?

[A/FX]

So I've been starring at the end of this strut rod for a while thinking there has to be a simple CHEAP way I can do this myself?
Really, how far does the strut rod have to go forward to create a significant change in caster? Anyone?
How about threading the large area of the shaft down say 3 inches and install a lock nut, drill out the rear washer so it rests against the nut. Enlarge the ID of the donuts and sleeve them with a tube for the proper compression length. Then it's justa matter of washering the front nut till it tightens the tube in the donuts.
What am I missing?
Fred
PS
Think I'll stay with the stock lowers (maybe reinforce like Jim did) but to allow for the increased caster I will enlarge one hole in both the strut rod to LCR mount and LCR to frame mount.
Then add a heavy washer at the enlarged hole that can be tack welded after adjustment cause, really how many times am I gonna change it?

That sounds fine for obtaining the correct length when adjusting the front end geometry but it does nothing for the designed bind during suspension travel. The factory design was that the rubber compresses up, down, and to the side during travel. When the rubber gets old and brittle and the inner strut rod surface gets pitted from rust the strut binds even more than it was normally designed to do. With a bearing in place of the rubber the strut moves freely in every direction and has none of the flex that the rubber has. The factory system works fine for 95 percent of the cars that have it, it’s the other 5 percent of us who think we can make it better.
With the modified lower control arm and strut rod my suspension moves freely with no bind and is infinitely adjustable.
Just my opinion.
Jim

[bigdan]

If you're just wanting adjustability and full threads, the 63 style came that way from the factory. That's what i'm using on my 65 currently., but I may change them later.

Dan

[Lip Ripper]

Late 62 as well. The problem I've had with old stuff is threads galling up. I even bought a die to chase them and still ended up going modern. Wanna buy a die?

[SASSY]

Jim, thanks for your opinion, I agree with what you say, and really like the pieces your putting in your car.
But like my signature says,, I pretty much need to do it my way. Besides I drive the car way too fast now!
All I'm really after is to add more caster to take advanage of the power steering and eventually to make the steering a little quicker.
I just searched images of a 63 strut rod on Google I've never seen one, that's what I think I want.
Fred

[Lip Ripper]

Fred, let me look. The pair I bought had one good one and one with bad threads. I think I may have one with the bushings. The other thing are the nuts. They're a weird size and the original seem to lose their grip when removed. I'll get back to you later.

Stacey

[loman]

I just searched images of a 63 strut rod on Google I've never seen one, that's what I think I want.
Fred

Fred, if Stacey doesn't have them, check with Bruce. He has his 63 parts car listed in the parts section.

[Lip Ripper]

I found the rods. One good and one junk. I bought a die and chased the threads on the one but it wouldn't hold the torque. That is when I moved on. I cannot find the bushings or the replacement nuts I bought. I think this dilemma becomes more frequent as I circle the sun.

[SASSY]

I think this dilemma becomes more frequent as I circle the sun.

Lololololo!!!
I have a US mailing address if you want to get rid of the good rod and die. Pm me a price etc.
Fred

[SASSY]

Well after hasselin Joe to post some pics I realized it's been a while since I updated this thread. It's not much but it will be WHITE outside for a while yet so no hurry.
ONe of the first things that hit me was these roller perches I'm building will raise the front of my car at least 3/8s of an inch!! CRAP!
ONe operation I stumbled upon was the stock bushings only come out one way. Measure them, one end is bout 30 thou bigger. I was lucky for a change cause I just stuck one in my 20 ton press and poped it out, didn't notice the size difference till later!

After building one the way the article said to do I made a couple changes. https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/200 ... /index.php
Didn't like the way the bearings are spaced so I found a piece of tubing and pug welded it to the shaft to define inner bearing space.
After grinding out the tube to get the bearing to fit,, WAY to much effort, slit the tube with a zip disk put the bearings in tube weld tube closed.
short bursts around bearings and cool with spritz bottle worked fine.
I needed heat and the press to dent the tube for shock mount clearence, do it first.
I drilled out the drain hole on the perch and used it for a pulg weld.
Now that I'm sitting here looking at the pics I realize that I don't have a pic of the finished product,,,, SOON.

[poboyjo65]

Better make sure you dented the tubes enough to get a deep well socket on. if not it will be a pain to get those shock nuts on & tight. ask me how I know

[SASSY]

Better make sure you dented the tubes enough to get a deep well socket on. if not it will be a pain to get those shock nuts on & tight. ask me how I know

How do you know?
No room for a socket in there

[poboyjo65]

believe me I know! you will too!! I told myself if I ever had it all back apart I'd cut the tubes like these;


It would be a lot easier with a good straight shot from the bottom,with a ''nut stuck on a socket with a piece of paper'' trick to get it started. yea big knuckles don't like it up in there, & doing it by feel!

You mentioned having to raise it a 1/2''. you might get some of that back by mounting the spring perches 1'' more outward. if you were needing to stiffen your spring rate a little bit it will do that too. this is a common alteration that is suppose to help the handling & I will do it to mine if I ever have it apart again. I didnt know about it when I did mine.

[SASSY]

Thanks Johno!
It's not too late, they're not in the car yet but if I do that doubt they will look as good.
Do you think I would need to put the strength back that cutting those holes for shock bolt access would remove?
I'm using a Dom piece of driveshaft tube.
Fred

[poboyjo65]

I wouldn't think so Fred . & heat might mess up the sealed bearings. If you did it before you put the bearings in maybe but I dont think it will hurt anything. looks pretty stout as is.

BTW, if you get bored this is some good reading,this guy details many of the changes he did & problems he ran into & how he overcame them. I did a lot of the changes he did,& so are you.
http://www.tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ng+perches
lots of info & pics in those 3 pages!