COMET CENTRAL

Finishing off brake and suspension work on my 64 Caliente, and getting ready to pull engine/trans together. (289-4V, single exhaust, C4 on column). Spent half the day soaking and heating driver side exhaust pipe to get it off, but the passenger side: WOW !~ It's hard to even see the nuts or get the P-B or torch on them, much less get a socket on them. The only way to reach it was with a U-joint but I couldn't get enough leverage laying under the car to get any movement, so I opted to try my impact wrench. My 11/16 impact socket had walls too thick to fit, so I had to use the only other 1/2" drive I had, and it was a 12 point. Yep, rounded off the nut. (still can't get to the top nut....). So I guess my next move is to cut the exhaust pipe, just down from where they connect: unless anyone has some other ideas. (also, do Fox body shorty headers fit ??)
Assuming that gets done, its on to the actual removal. I planned on putting a jack under the tailshaft to lift enough to remove the cross bolts on the crossmember and then let it down. What's the best way to handle the emergency brake cable ? Remove it beforehand, or just leave it attached to the crossmember ? I'm 73 and laying on the floor of the garage, so whatever makes it easier would be a good thing ! Any other tips specific to this car ? (not my first engine pull...) Radiator and water pump were already off, so I think I'm pretty good on front clearance.
Thanks in advance....
Mike

On the exhaust bolt...maybe unbolt the manifold from the head so it would be easier to get a torch on it after the motor is out. Use a 6 point socket or a 6 point metric hammered on there.This might be a good idea but there's always a chance of breaking the manifold- to- head bolts and then you will have another problem to solve.Hang in there,young man.You'll get it figured out.For me,personally,getting older and working on cars hasn't been much of a problem but I did have to buy higher jack stands so I can get under the cars....and for some reason my pants all shrank.

I use a tilting engine lift bar on my hoist. Still a challenge to get enough angle and height to clear the top of the rad support. Helps to have an extra set of hands and eyes when pulling it. Still not a super fun job.

vicegrip wrote:For me,personally,getting older and working on cars hasn't been much of a problem but I did have to buy higher jack stands so I can get under the cars....and for some reason my pants all shrank.

I've decided that I must be getting taller as I get older because it seems when I get down on the floor it's farther away than it used to be, and it takes more effort to climb back up again.

Jim

!!!!!!!! POP has pulled 289 AT out of his 64 and put back,,later pulled again,,then went back with motor and 4spd...I just pay attention to how chain is attached on my cherry picker....this ain;t hard...bottom line is just pay attention....I'd rather put both in as a unit rather seprate JMO////POP

popscomet wrote:!!!!!!!! POP has pulled 289 AT out of his 64 and put back,,later pulled again,,then went back with motor and 4spd...I just pay attention to how chain is attached on my cherry picker....this ain;t hard...bottom line is just pay attention....I'd rather put both in as a unit rather seprate JMO////POP

I had planned on getting a load leveler for the cherry picker; but I have concerns that what I gain in being able to adjust the angle of the combo, I'll lose in clearance in getting it out.
Anyone know what Harbor Freight pays ? I need to get a part time job (and employee discount)

modelafish wrote:Anyone know what Harbor Freight pays ?

Maybe they would pay in tools

I have been putting my inline six and T5 in and out of my '64 in one piece and I have the Mustang 2 crossmember to contend with as well, I know it isn't a V8 but it is longer and taller.


It takes about all the lift the cherry picker has to get it high enough and I still have the tendency to scrape the freshly painted firewall. I don't like laying under the car hooking the transmission up either so if I can do one piece I will.

I cheat as well because I have no shock towers and skinny export braces.

See Ya,
Mike

Before I made a load leveler similar to Mikes,,, I used a ratchet strap to pull up & level the trans tail to get it over the rad support. I just hooked it high on the hoist chain. I have used a comealong to do the same thing.

A person could make it a lot easier for the motor/trans combo to come out & put back in ,, by making a removable top section for the rad support.

Getting over the top of it is the hardest part.

You could use a donor so you could cut the donor longer,,, so they overlap ,to bolt it back together. I saved the center of a good support to do this,but didnt use it.

poboyjo65 wrote:A person could make it a lot easier for the motor/trans combo to come out & put back in ,, by making a removable top section for the rad support.

Getting over the top of it is the hardest part.

You could use a donor so you could cut the donor longer,,, so they overlap ,to bolt it back together. I saved the center of a good support to do this,but didnt use it.

I LIKE that idea. I was wondering last week how much strength I would lose by cutting through the support; but using a donor piece never occurred to me. I guess mainly the top piece and a few inches on either side to overlap would work. But before I go cutting things up, I'll probably give it a try first in "normal" mode. I was also thinking about seeing if some later model cars had the same bolt pattern on a "Donut" tire that would help get the front end down a little. As long as I don't go so low that I can't get the cherry picker under the front end.

Hell, for that matter, after running out to the garage and looking at it again; how about just a piece of 1-1/2" angle iron, or even aluminum either on top or behind the support piece. Probably on top because of the curve inside would be tough to match without grinding everything away. I could fit it real snug, clamp it, drill holes for the bolts, remove, and then make the cut. That's only IF I couldn't get it out otherwise.

yep that would work fine. I think I would put it behind so it doesn't show. it wouldn't have to be angle iron. you could just use flat stock.

I believe it was Steve Jobs who said he like to hire lazy people, he said they can figure out the easiest,fastest way to do everything thing they do quicker than the go getters.

How about just using 2 angle iron pieces, radius grind the corner to fit snug inside then carefully cut each end and then put a piece of angle on each side protruding an inch or so out from the cut, welded or bolted in place, then bolt the center section back in to those, you could use rivet-nuts or weld some nuts on the back of the angle iron if you wanted to make it real easy to remove later.

Just a thought, but I think I would try and pick it out of there first because how many times do you intend to remove the motor? I am building my motor so this will hopefully be the last time on this car I ever do it.

See Ya,
Mike

I cut the brace as Johnno planned and have a 1 inch square tube running across the back of the brace bolted in. Been there since I did the 351C in ' 74.
Installing the trans in the car then the engine is a WAY had idea, imho.
Fred
I just hack sawed the piece out shown here.

I can see where cutting a gap in support would help,,but I have such a rust free straight never patched up body that I couldn't bring myself to hack on it....besides I don't have to change engines that often !!….POP