solder vs crimping

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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby Comechero65 » Wed Oct 11, 2017 1:31 pm

Most automotive harnesses no matter who don't usually have any solder connections because all terminals are crimped or firmly attached to the wires by the co who fabs the harnesses.

I have built and fab'd so much over the years that soldering is second nature to me.

I know the ribbed sleeving is easy to run wires and can be added to easily enough. I just prefer to wrap harnesses as ford built them. It's tedious to unwrap and rewrap but for me that works. In building mine I have added extra wiring to the harnesses but you would never know once I get done and rewrap them.

Nothing wrong with using the ribbed tubing as it does work. It's each persons personal choice how they choose to do it. I just like to keep all added wires consolidated in the harness with the factory look and with no evidence anything has changed.
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Last edited by Comechero65 on Wed Oct 11, 2017 2:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby Jims65cyclone » Wed Oct 11, 2017 2:14 pm

poboyjo65 wrote:I like the convoluted tubing & tiny zipties. makes it easy to add to later & easy to inspect, & is better protection if it gets on something hot.


That's what I plan to use when I rewire mine. Then use the P-shaped clamps to route the looms and hold them in place along firewall, fenders, etc.
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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby Lou's Comet » Wed Oct 11, 2017 5:54 pm

I guess I am a curious sort, so I did a little scientific experiment at my shop today to see how good my crimp connections are.

Took some 14 gauge wire, my old crimper and one of the connectors I use.

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Stripped .25" off the ends of the wires, and put two crimps on each side like I normally do.

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Wrapped one end of the wire around a piece of wood and supported it on a shop stand. Wraps the other end around/thru a 45lb cement block.

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It held. I left it like that for a few hours. But, for a scientific experiment to be complete,, or any fun, you have to find the breaking point. So I stood on it....and it broke! The crimp did not fail, the wire did. The wire strands stretched over a inch and snapped.

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IMHO I'm good with that. A little dielectric grease on the connection and good sealing heat shrink over top and good to go, no worries.

I think one of the reasons the good connectors work so well is. When you look inside the barrel (where the bare wire goes in) it looks like it is threaded, it's got ridges in there to help grip when you crimp them.

Was going to try a cheaper connector too but didn't have any.

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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby Lou's Comet » Wed Oct 11, 2017 6:01 pm

poboyjo65 wrote:I hate soldering.I also hate butt connectors,although sometimes you have to. I'd rather run a complete new wire if possible. I dont take off the factory wrap but I dont wrap any added wires. I like the convoluted tubing & tiny zipties. makes it easy to add to later & easy to inspect, & is better protection if it gets on something hot. I use the end connectors,blade & bullet, that have heat shrink built in, then I add more heat shrink. Never had any crimps come loose.


I'm with you John. Not a fan of soldering and only use butt connectors when absolutely need be. Running one wire end to end definitely prefered.
I use the plastic tubing a lot for wire covering as you say easy on off. But been looking as some covering my son use's on his car. Still has the split seam like the plastic but has a nicer/cleaner look. Although I will prob put the plastic over it for more protection where needed.

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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby tomb22 » Wed Oct 11, 2017 7:33 pm

I saw the success you had with your crimper and that was good, but I've included a picture of the Thomas Betts crimper which you can see has a very good style of crimp that absolutely keeps the wires in the crimp.

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I like the idea of starting a new thread on just wiring the car. Everybody has some ideas and I'm looking for ideas. I'll put together what I have bought so far and what I'm thinking about. In what category do you suggest starting a new thread
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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby Lou's Comet » Wed Oct 11, 2017 8:03 pm

Thanks for the picture of the crimper Tomb, I'll have to pick up a set. As far as where to start the thread I don't think it really matters, body shop prob where I would. Wouldn't use a year specific because it would include all the years?? But again really don't think it matters people will find it.

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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby popscomet » Wed Oct 11, 2017 9:26 pm

tomb22 wrote:I saw the success you had with your crimper and that was good, but I've included a picture of the Thomas Betts crimper which you can see has a very good style of crimp that absolutely keeps the wires in the crimp.

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I like the idea of starting a new thread on just wiring the car. Everybody has some ideas and I'm looking for ideas. I'll put together what I have bought so far and what I'm thinking about. In what category do you suggest starting a new thread

this is zactly what the RR uses and I have one...pop
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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby comethead » Wed Oct 11, 2017 9:40 pm

On aircraft when we have to splice we use "environmental" type splices where the wiring is in the elements. Like this http://m.skygeek.com/sumitomo-h-cr-436- ... gJahfD_BwE

They are very slim and the plastic sleeve slips over and is heated to shrink. With black shrink wrap over it it almost disappears. I use these type of splices on the Comet as well.

Also, soldering is hardly ever used on aircraft.

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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby poboyjo65 » Thu Oct 12, 2017 11:43 am

tomb22 wrote:I saw the success you had with your crimper and that was good, but I've included a picture of the Thomas Betts crimper which you can see has a very good style of crimp that absolutely keeps the wires in the crimp.

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I like the idea of starting a new thread on just wiring the car. Everybody has some ideas and I'm looking for ideas. I'll put together what I have bought so far and what I'm thinking about. In what category do you suggest starting a new thread


my crimpers look similar to yours Tom, made by ''chan-nel-lock'' model 909, but instead of half round on the one side they have like a top of a heart, or butt. but has the same peg on the other side as yours.They only have one size but seems to fit all I have done. long handles get good leverage. & has cutters out on the tip like yours, which comes in handy for clipping zipties. Cut off zipties leave a sharp tab that will cut you.- I hate leaving that sharp so I melt it a little with a bic lighter & mash it with a finger while it's hot to smooth it down, or sand it smooth with a diegrinder & sanding disc.

Good to hear airlines & railroad use crimps !! :D if it is good enough for them it is good enough for me!! :D

Lou thanks for sharing that test with us! maybe you should hang it up outside for the winter for a test!! :lol: If you look at youtube there are several videos explaining the pros & cons of crimping vs soldering. most of them say soldering at a butt splice makes a vulnerable area that becomes stiff or brittle if flexed & it will break. between watching some of those video's & the comments here, I'll stay with crimping.
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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby Lou's Comet » Fri Oct 13, 2017 7:00 am

poboyjo65 wrote:
Lou thanks for sharing that test with us! maybe you should hang it up outside for the winter for a test!! :lol: If you look at youtube there are several videos explaining the pros & cons of crimping vs soldering. most of them say soldering at a butt splice makes a vulnerable area that becomes stiff or brittle if flexed & it will break. between watching some of those video's & the comments here, I'll stay with crimping.


LOL oh yea looking forward to the SW PA winter! The test kind of surprised me. I knew the connectors held for wiring purposes. Rewired 5 cars in the last 4/5 years and many repairs and modifications in that time with no failures. And wasn't really surprised it held the block. But thought with enough pressure it would pull apart. Really didn't think it would hold well enough to break the wire. Yesterday I cut the connector apart and found 14 pieces of broken strands still in the connector. So that means only 5 strands pulled out. My wiring is never going to have anywhere near that tension on any of the connectors so I'm good to go.

Was showing my buddy that's has the trucking co my test and he wasn't too surprised, he said since he started doing it that way he can't remember a failure in any of his wiring, also said he doesn't get corrosion like he use to get when they soldered the connectors. Now to be fair his wiring goes thru more extreme stuff than any of our cars will. But like you I will continue with the crimping method.

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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby popscomet » Fri Oct 13, 2017 10:45 pm

YOU CAN SOLDER or you can crimp and use all the shrink tape you want to and wrap with what ford uses or use tape,,,,BUT on a trailer plug in,,,when you unhook trailer and forget to pull the plug connecter and drive off,,,,,YOU PULL IT ALL APART ,,,I did that once,,was in a hurry and nothing stayed wired ...just recalled doing that more yrs ago then I want to :shock: :lol: ,,it sure taught me a lesson :wink: pay attention and try to not get in a hurry :roll: :shock:
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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby poboyjo65 » Fri Oct 13, 2017 11:04 pm

I hear you pop. but some are pretty tough, have you ever left the body ground on while pulling a motor? you can nearly pic up the car & it wont break.& those are crimped.
I think I'm gonna have to hang a block like Lou, & leave it up all winter. :lol: :lol:
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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby popscomet » Fri Oct 13, 2017 11:10 pm

poboyjo65 wrote:I hear you pop. but some are pretty tough, have you ever left the body ground on while pulling a motor? you can nearly pic up the car & it wont break.& those are crimped.
I think I'm gonna have to hang a block like Lou, & leave it up all winter. :lol: :lol:

they ain't tough e'nuff to choke a motor down when you drive away......hang a block....I might also,,I might hang 2 blocks,,,,use a good crimper and a cheap one from HF...LOU hit on a good told you so,thing
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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby poboyjo65 » Sat Oct 14, 2017 11:40 am

Lou's Comet wrote: But been looking as some covering my son use's on his car. Still has the split seam like the plastic but has a nicer/cleaner look.
Lou


I would like to see that stuff.sounds interesting! :D One of the draw backs of the convoluted tubing is it's kinda aggravating to clean, with all the ribs. but I suppose those ribs actually keep the wires that much farther away from hot iron if it the tubing touches some.
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Re: solder vs crimping

Postby Lou's Comet » Sat Oct 14, 2017 4:07 pm

poboyjo65 wrote:
Lou's Comet wrote: But been looking as some covering my son use's on his car. Still has the split seam like the plastic but has a nicer/cleaner look.
Lou


I would like to see that stuff.sounds interesting! :D One of the draw backs of the convoluted tubing is it's kinda aggravating to clean, with all the ribs. but I suppose those ribs actually keep the wires that much farther away from hot iron if it the tubing touches some.


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... 6&_sacat=0

Prices are all over the map. Amazon has some for like $9 for ten feet, seen somewhere else 25 feet for $18 but price shop if you are going to get some.

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