COMET CENTRAL

I like it I am a fan of black wheels with a chrome ring (I may have said that already)

See Ya,
Mike

Thanks, fellas! The black looks really good to me so it'll stay for now. Almost have new brake lines bent to replace the ones I jacked up, and since the saw horse is out of the way dropped the tank half in to start fitting that up.

Cut/ buff on the hood is finished, so ill start on the roof next and work my way down. It'll probably only need 2500/3000 then the pad, but the quarters, doors and fenders will take a little work. Still, moving along. One last pic -



Dan

Dan,

Everything is looking good. You are going to have one nice ride when you are done.

Ok, fellas. Looking for engineering expertise . In my install of my rear end I left off the vent for the housing. It never occurred to me that it would be an issue, but, it is. Every style of vent that I have on hand, both aftermarket and stock, is too tall (1 1/2" or so) and gets really close to my coil overs. I don't want to pull the housing, disassemble, plug the hole, drill and tap another, yada yada yada unless i have to.

I did come up with a plan of sorts, however. Since the vent hole is tapped 7/16-20, my thought is to cross drill the hex head of a flywheel bolt, cut it down to 1/2" or so, gun drill it 5/16 and voila! Vent! Thoughts?



Dan

That should work! I got in the same predicament. although I did plan ahead before I carried my rearend to guy to shorten I noticed the old hole was going to land where the ubolts would be. So I welded it up & drilled & tapped a new one. Einstein pulled the tubes from the center to shorten them,(who woulda thunk it? ) which put the hole closer to the center & then he put the tubes in the wrong side, among other mistakes. so I put a short one in it like this one from curry;
https://www.currieenterprises.com/CE-9028

but unfortunately it leaks not terrible but it seeps some. may be because it is too close to the center.

I've got one similar to the Currie and it's a little close; it's almost 1 1/2" long too. I guess we can't think of everything LOL! I think since its out towards the end of the housing i shouldn't have many seepage issues. I guess I'll try this and see what happens.

Dan

Nice rear!! I think that'll be plenty of vent. I went & looked at my old stock one...doubt it's as effective as your creation. Shucks, any air pst those through-holes will be like a siphon! Might work too well...........nah!!

I decided, before building my brake system, to go with all AN fittings this go round. IMO they're simpler to flare and less prone to leaks, so that's the way I went. I spent a few evenings plotting it out front to back to make sure I had everything ordered, then got started. Just one issue - better get it all right because I can't source fittings locally . . .

So . . . . I forgot one fitting. One! LOL

I did decide to use a longer flex hose from the axle to the body, so ill wait on both. Fuel cell is in, fuel line is routed through/under all the way to the firewall, so i can strike that from the list for now.

Now onto a quick steering box rebuild and then the cut/buff begins in earnest.

More later -

Dan

I guess I didn't know you could use AN for brake line. I still need to get the flex line from axle to body (and all new hard lines) I bought new flex lines for the axle already but I need to make the hard line that goes between them, I was waiting until all the brackets got welded on and everything re-painted (which is close).

bigdan wrote:then the cut/buff begins in earnest.

Glad I am not too worried about my body right now, mechanical stuff is enough for me

Everything is looking good Dan.

See Ya,
Mike

Lavron - The calipers and master cylinder are still inverted flare. No matter how hard i try, the bubble flare seemed to have an 80% success rate for me, and since i made approximately 1,000,000 AN flares during my shipyard days, I went that way. Speedway had pretty much everything needed.

On the paint, I'm not looking for a show car, but there's a few runs and a little peel here and there I want to correct is all. A solid 10- footer is fine by me!

Thanks for looking -

Dan

Progress is still being made, just nothing to show quite yet. I've been tinkering with my hydraulic clutch master cylinder, trying to fine tune it before final install. I initially shifted it away from the brake master cylinder and did a fair amount of fab work to get it installed, but that ended up with my clutch master push rod being about an inch left of my pedal. The pedal was to be replaced anyway due to some old welds and grinding the PO did, so i have the ball bearing upgrade going in at the same time. It'll get real tight nesting the two master cylinders together to get in line with the pedals and keep the correct pedal ratio, but now is the time I guess. Pics soon -

Dan

Cool be interested to see I have a hydraulic clutch going my Comet as well, it is always nice to see how other guys do it.

Keep up the good work Dan.

See Ya,
Mike

I love it when parts show up on Friday! Plan for the weekend is the roller bearing pedal install then correctly mounting/installing the clutch master, brake master, etc, and hopefully getting rear brakes tied into the master cylinder. We'll see how it goes.

New pedal is on the left; old "PO modified" on the right.


Quick edit - the only difference between the Mustang pedal and the existing was the hard stop. The new mustang part used a support mounted stop, the existing pedal had the stop on the pedal. So, quick snip, grind and tig it back up. Removed the old bushings, blasted the support and painted also.



Dan

Dunno if it’ll help but here are a couple pics of mine...the linkage comes off the right side of the pedal. The clutch master is tough to see w/ all the other junk...tight but enough room...

Rocket - I've seen that bracket apparatus; looks like it would work spot on. I've got the Hydramax set up from American Powertrain which uses a different firewall bracket, but probably the same Wilwood master. I initially set it up too far away from the clutch pedal and was going to fab up a bracket to support it, but i decided at this point I'm way past putting a bandaid on top of a bandaid, so I decided to move it. Everything is fabbed, rebuilt and ready, just need to trim the old spot and tack in a replacement hole. Shouldn't take too long. Thanks for looking -

Dan