COMET CENTRAL

if he ain't runnin stock....don't be surprised if he ain't runnin a performer,,,,for the low end trq on a snow plow...pop

vicegrip wrote:Glad you're getting things figured out. Eagle is good but...an old stock 460 crank is capable of 1000+ hp and the C9 rods can do 600 if you limit rpm to around 6 grand. In my opinion,the rotating assemble your getting is a waste of money unless you're shooting for big inch and big power. Hopefully,your machine guy has the C/R figured out because with those 72 cc heads,you could end up with a race gas only deal real easy. On the intake (also in my opinion) the performer is made for snow plow trucks. Maybe go with the Performer RPM or the Torker 2 which is my fav because you get great street performance with something that will fit under a stock hood.

He didn't have the crank for the 429, his brother used it for his Torino. I was thinking that since we were getting a rotating assembly might as well stroke it, but the machine shop says not to?

I have no experience with 385 series BB, as far as building one. But learning. From what I have read the heads are 75cc? The cobra jet heads (different casting #and larger valves) are 72cc?

But yes the C/R is a concern and I did just did the math, with the pistons the shop has on the build sheet I figure the C/R will be around 14.34:1 not going to work. He has -15cc pistons listed and from the calculator I am using that is putting the C/R at 14.34:1 now I haven't found -15cc pistons listed on summit only +15cc so maybe the shop did a typo? +15cc will give C/R around 10.4:1 which is around where we would like to be, maybe a little less? The other thing is with the compression height of piston it is going to be out of hole .002??? Plus not sure how much he is taking off the heads or decking the block so going to have to find out.

Thanks for all the advice and the suggestions on intake and such. One main reason for the performer was carb pad height? Suppose to be the same as stock and really don't want hood clearance problems. I will definitely look at the intakes you have suggested.

Thanks for the help,,,I appreciate it!!

Lou

Lou,the machine shop isn't making any sense.If you're going to spring for a new rotating assy,why NOT go with a stroker? Check these guys out. I have bought 2 521 balanced kits from them and their work was perfect. It's a simple .030 bore and whatever cleaning up the block needs... bolt and go.

https://www.cnc-motorsports.com/engine- ... 1-532-kits

vicegrip wrote:Lou,the machine shop isn't making any sense.If you're going to spring for a new rotating assy,why NOT go with a stroker? Check these guys out. I have bought 2 521 balanced kits from them and their work was perfect. It's a simple .030 bore and whatever cleaning up the block needs... bolt and go.

https://www.cnc-motorsports.com/engine- ... 1-532-kits

I agree! Why not go with more displacement ? They had a few reasons, longevity, piston/rod ratio, and the need for big buck heads/ valvetrain. We were planning on using the stock heads. My buddy ( guy I am doing car for) was there when we dropped of block and he basically bought into it.

The car is never going to see the drag strip, just going to be a cruise car. And not my car, so you do what customer wants.

We won't be getting the body till March, New Dynacorn body, but he wants the engine done now. The block needs .040 bore to clean some water damage. But I assume you can do a stroker with .040 over pistons?

The shop has a very good rep and we have had work done there before with no problems and done on time. First time having them do a engine tho, all the other work was heads.

The shop is telling us we should end up with around 450 horse? And Buddy would be happy with anything over 400. He wants low end torque and it should have that.

Going to talk to him today, will mention the stroker kits from the link.

THANKS !!

Lou's Comet wrote:[quote="

We won't be getting the body till March, New Dynacorn body, but he wants the engine done now. The block needs .040 bore to clean some water damage. But I assume you can do a stroker with .040 over pistons?



THANKS !!

.040 pistons is what is in my car. My first motor was a .030 over 460. After I hurt that one, the Machine shop suggested going to .040 over to clean the block back up. Found a stroker kit with .040 pistons and went with it.

I know a guy who runs a 557 in a big ol 40 ft motor home. Wanted to keep up with the Cummins and Cat crowd. It does all of that and more. 65k on the clock and still running strong. Longevity really isn't an issue. With your heads,with a little work,500 hp is a piece of cake.The main issue is weight on an already nose heavy combo. What do you plan on doing to them,what shape are they in? If you figure the cost of reconditioning,a lot of times aluminum heads become more attractive. Ford racing SCJ's are awesome.Sure,it means more money but the advantages outweigh the cost. (again,in my opinion)

Well, Going with .040 over and 460 crank 3.850 stroke. I still think going larger would be better since buying a rotating assembly anyways. But fri I stopped at another machine shop, also good reputation! And talked to the owner there. He seemed more knowledgeable on fords. (He is building a 64 fairlane with a wild looking clever?) but anyhow he basically said the same thing as first guy. For what my buddy is going to use the car for best to just go with the 3.850 crank.

As for the Heads they are getting basic rebuild, hardened seats stellite?, 3 angle valve job, valve guide tops machined for positive seals, resurfaced, new intake valves, and machined for dual springs. No polishing or porting. A little over $400

Couple years ago did a Fairlane for my buddy with a stock rebuilt 390 with 4 speed. He is more than happy with it, so I would think a mild 460 build in a Mustang will make him happy.

Appreciate the help,,,,thanks

Lou

John Kaase is the Ford guy

You can do it, patience and careful measuring (engineering), but it makes a great big badass 65 comet when done right. There are alot of bb 460 blocks out there as they were put in a variety of Ford products, pickups, lincolns, etc. A good later model truck block and a 30 overbore is a start. Then of course many ways to build a high HP motor. Pistons, super cobrajet heads, aluminum intake, etc. Mustang II coilover frontend. Replace shock towers, many things to consider but it is a good project and has been done by other folks. A strong toploader or a built C6 and 9 inch rear are, I think a requirement. Subframe connectors, proper gearing and you can easily get a 10 sec, low 11 in the quarter car.

I would look at a pair of alumn heads,,,SCJ heads are high and hard to find,,,then probaly need a rebuild..jmo..in the end might come out cheaper and have a better head,,,besides a weight savings,,,, jmo pop

popscomet wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 02, 2021 10:24 pm

I would look at a pair of alumn heads,,,SCJ heads are high and hard to find,,,then probaly need a rebuild..jmo..in the end might come out cheaper and have a better head,,,besides a weight savings,,,, jmo

Good opinion, both.

JT