COMET CENTRAL

Santa's Comet wrote:What type shock are they? I'm real happy with KYB gas shocks front and rear.
Seem more solid than those. Can't wait to see it when you're done.
NP Dave

They're just some Monroe's. Not the greatest, but I figured since everything else suspension-wise was stock, they would be fine. Maybe not.

That's pretty squishy IMO...push on my decklid like that and you'll just put a dent in it...ain't movin'! The KYB (Gas-A-Just & GR2's) generally get good reviews and are about $120 bucks for all 4. I switched to 'Stang shock tops for more options and went with Koni STR.T's...woulda loved the Classics but couldn't afford 'em.

I guess I'll look into some KYBs. I wouldn't think they would make THAT much difference, but maybe they will. I was expecting the new rear springs to be like the new fronts, really stiff until they broke in some.

Yah, a shock doesn't necessarily have to be stiff to work right, it's more about the spring/ shock combo, but it looked like you were pretty easily bouncing the rear...

Ordered some KYBs. The Monroe's didn't seem to do much beyond no shocks at all. Hopefully the KYBs will be noticeably different.

Got the KYBs!! Night and day difference. With the Monroe's it didn't take a whole lot of me pushing to push it. With these I'm pushing pretty hard and it's hardly moving. I'm happy!

https://youtu.be/cbG5B8zxJLU

It's a NEW CAR!! (in my best Bob Barker Price is Right voice)

Finally took it for a spin. Springs and shocks made a HUGE difference. That and the new carpet and sound deadener inside makes it like a new car!!

So I driven it a few times now with the new springs and I've noticed that the passenger side sits just a little higher, maybe 1/2-3/4" or so. Could be the new springs and bushings need to settle still? Seems weird. The other thing I've noticed is that when I turn right the rear passenger tire rubs the lip. Its already rolled some so it's not cutting, but it does squeak from the rubber on metal. The passenger side has always been closer but it hasn't rubbed. Combination of different backspacing wheels and new bushings maybe letting it move more? I'm wondering if I can loosen the u-bolts and push the rear over a hair maybe. I've heard of that working sometimes. Or I guess see if I can roll the lip more to gain a little.

I was able to move my rear over nearly 1/4''. with them loose you can hit the u bolts with a hammer to help them slide on the axle a tad.

poboyjo65 wrote:I was able to move my rear over nearly 1/4''. with them loose you can hit the u bolts with a hammer to help them slide on the axle a tad.

Really? I think that would be awesome if I could get an extra 1/4. My thought was crawl under there, loosen the nuts, then push the body over a few times, then tighten the nuts back up. Think that would work?

rjones35 wrote:

poboyjo65 wrote:I was able to move my rear over nearly 1/4''. with them loose you can hit the u bolts with a hammer to help them slide on the axle a tad.

Really? I think that would be awesome if I could get an extra 1/4. My thought was crawl under there, loosen the nuts, then push the body over a few times, then tighten the nuts back up. Think that would work?

I doubt it. Jack it up. loosen all the u bolts & hit them with a hammer the opposite way that you want the axle to go, which is actually sliding the axle in them.use a piece of wood if you dont want to skin the paint. the spring pad is what will stop them , but you can beat them tight to the side you want them. the tops of the ubolts will go a bit farther & help some. I think mine moved over about 1/8'' - 3/16''. I think I went the wrong way the first time, it's been a while so I'm not certain.

Right on. I'll give it a shot, hopefully one night this week. Thanks for the advice!!

What's with that big round tapered end on the front leaf spring bolt? It looks like the intention is to press out the original round piece (about 2.5" diameter) and use the new bolt to replace that end. Is that what folks are doing, or are you just replacing the bolt and leaving in that original round section?

Thanks

mark wrote:What's with that big round tapered end on the front leaf spring bolt? It looks like the intention is to press out the original round piece (about 2.5" diameter) and use the new bolt to replace that end. Is that what folks are doing, or are you just replacing the bolt and leaving in that original round section?

Thanks

Not sure I follow what you're asking about?? That big round piece has to come out when you replace the springs, or front bushing.