Lavron's '64 Build Thread

The Era of The Square Body Racing Comets
Comechero65
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by Comechero65 »

On the mustang 6 the comp went on top and the gen or alt went below. just opposite on the falcon. Don't forget about the 'shorty' for a compact comp. One a friend is considering is the old GM rotolock R4 comp.
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

I am really leaning toward the stainless headers on eBay, most folks have positive things to say about them and they have few fitment issues, I have read they work with stock AC even, so there should be room there.

I realize going with 164 tooth flywheel causes issue with header clearance, but like I have said, I don't think this header would work even with the smaller flywheel combo, it is not a 250 header but designed for 144-170-200 high mount starter, it really hugs close to the block.

The Pacemaker header was/is an expensive header as well (not sure you can even still buy them) and I hate to molest it and then it not fit still because I would rather sell it to someone that can use it than cut it up. (probably gave upwards of $400 for it)

I do like the eBay one is SS so I could forgo having any coating done on the header and save more, I would not get the insulating value of a ceramic coating would be the downside.

My goal today is to try and remove 3 broken bolts from the exhaust flange on the head, two have pretty good stubs sticking out, one is broke off flush :( I have been spraying them every couple of days with PB Blaster so hopefully they will let loose. Going to try vice grips on the ones sticking out initially and see if they will even budge, the other I am going to give the ez-outs a go at it.

See Ya,
Mike
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

Still haven't got the bolts out of the head, but I did do a little cleanup on it, I wish carbon was not so hard to get off exhaust valves :roll:

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This is the broken bolts, the middle one looks a little bit like it might have a hell-coil in it, it looks odd around the base, of course that picture came out fuzzy because I was trying to get a close-up.

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Not sure you can see it in the picture but cylinder 6 (far left) was the one that had a broken ring so there are pits on the cylinder ceiling from chunks of ring dancing around inside it, that is probably what retired that Maverick but the damage was not bad and could have been fixed easy enough, would have been better if they then didn't let water into the motor, but that is my extra 200 block on the stand.

I think that it might be good to have the exhaust flange milled just a bit too clean it up, it has some rough spots as you can see.

See Ya,
Mike
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ArkansasComet
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by ArkansasComet »

I'm excited to see your progress with this project Mike, it's cool to see something different than a regular V8 swap!

I bought some cheap ebay stainless headers for my T-100, they were actually much better quality than I expected. I had to modify them slightly to fit & since I am not equipped to weld stainless I had a friend help me out, so if there's a chance you need to modify/weld them that's something to consider.

Good luck with your broken bolt removal! That is never a fun job.
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"Auto racing began 5 minutes after the second car was built." - Henry Ford

lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

I was checking on the internet about cleaning carbon and someone mentioned using SeaFoam wile the engine was running by misting it down the intake, I had some so thought about just using it straight on the carbon.

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It worked ok, I am sure it would have benefitted from a hot engine but they are good enough I can CC the chambers now.

See Ya,
Mike
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Rocket989
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by Rocket989 »

If PB Blaster doesn't help, try using Kroil!! Or best, a mix of Kroil & Acetone!
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

Still haven't tried to take out the broken bolts yet, but picked up some nuts yesterday to fit the little bits still sticking out and I am going to try and weld them on and see if the heat from the welder doesn't unstick them :?

I decided today to get rid of some of the grunge on the head, I haven't really touched it much until the last couple of days so it has been sitting for a couple of years or so.

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I went ahead and used Mineral spirits in a sprayer this time and brushed it a little with a wire brush, I also gave it a spray with oven cleaner, it is pretty much a lot cleaner so it might make it a little better to handle.

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It is not perfectly clean but that was not my goal, it is sitting now with the intake full of apple cider vinegar to see if it won't soak some of the rust out if the intake and valve pockets, I will pull the valves later and try and clean up the pockets a little.

I guess I am a little OCD or anal or whatever the current word is :roll: but the casting flash on the head bothered me so I ground some of it off, you can see it along the top edge in the upper picture and after I ground it off in the lower picture.

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I actually ground a few other spots along mold lines to clean them a little, didn't take long and probably no one will ever see it :roll:

While I was out messing with this stuff I gave the block a little more cleaning with oven cleaner as well.

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I don't know why I did that I am going to have it tanked anyway :roll: I guess I can't leave well enough alone.

I think the block is ready to go find a machine shop, there is really nothing else I need to do with it except make sure I can get my con rods I want but I might wait on the pistons but don't want to wait too long as I have only found one supplier on the net so far.

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And yes I honed the front cylinder and part of the second one before I broke my stones by going too deep into the cylinder.

I will be so happy to stop cleaning parts, the only things I have left right now are the main caps and the crank that are still grungy.

See Ya,
Mike
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Rocket989
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by Rocket989 »

Dang Mike, that thing looks good enough to start slappin' together!! Stop cleaning!! :lol: :lol: :) :mrgreen:
'cause Johno says you gotta have a sig pic! :)
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redhotcomet
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by redhotcomet »

All those valve springs in a row makes my eyes go :shock:

Now would be the time to figure out how to stroke it Maybe switch to some other rods and get the crank offset ground! You said you can't leave well enough alone! Stroker 6! Stroker 6! :lol:
1964 Caliente hardtop, 302/T5/8.8"

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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

redhotcomet wrote:Maybe switch to some other rods and get the crank offset ground! You said you can't leave well enough alone! Stroker 6! Stroker 6!
A 250 is already a factory stroked 200, I am getting a set of longer rods but don't think I want to stroke it anymore because it is already getting a bit high in compression and I want to keep it streetable and able to run on pump gas.

Ford had to widen the block and raise the deck to stroke the 200 because there is not enough room for the crank to clear the cam, a 200 and 250 are basically the same engine, they use the same pistons (3.68" bore), cam, etc. The difference in stroke is the 200=3.126" and the 250=3.91". So basically everything is so tight in there nobody strokes them, they do offset grind the crank. With that said I think I need to keep it simple on this build :roll:

I think with the longer Ford Tempo/Taurus connecting rods and the big dish Oz 250 pistons, plus decking the block 10 thousandths to give me a zero deck height it should wake the motor up a little. The only other consideration I have right now is putting larger intake valves in, currently the intakes, should be 1.649", the exact same head in '77 went up to 1.75" so they will fit and are available, would just need to cut bigger seats (exhaust valves are 1.38" all years '65 up) some people have put 144 intake valves in for exhaust (1.467") but there is the possibility of cutting into the water jacket on #1 cylinder and don't think I want to risk it :?

I am trying to figure out now how to calculate peak operating RPM, I assume this partially set by the cam grind to determine where you want the power and in my case, I would think for me, not building a drag car (or ever seeing any kind of racing) I would want to base that on highway cruising (?) Using one of the online calculators I would be turning around 2300 RPM at 65 MPH. So would 2300 be my target number or should it be lower or higher (I know there is a range).

See Ya,
Mike
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

Finally took the valves out, I figured the intake valves would be nasty from having water sit in the engine so yesterday When I finished my "daily do something, anything to the Comet" task I poured apple cider vinegar down the intake (I may have said that already) Surprisingly this morning not all of it had leaked out, I had the head sitting on a couple of old rag t-shirts and the white one was now a rusty color, the intake was still half full (<-Optimist) of vinegar and my shed now smells like a pickle factory :P

Pulled the valves and they were pretty much as I expected but gave everything a quick brush and rinsed it all off with the hose, the exhaust valves we/are pretty nasty but not rusty, I didn't think they would be because of the nice carbon coating and any water that could reach them would have run out the exhaust manifold, they are not perfectly clean (yet) but I oiled everything down so it could soak in good and protect it.

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Those are not the same cylinder, I even flipped the lower picture over so intakes would be on the same side and not so confusing.

I think I will clean up this valve, I am getting new ones but Would like to see if this will clean up, you know for the fun of it :roll:

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I hink I will try my hand a little porting on the head, I am limited on the intake side but should have just as good access on the exhaust side as the V8 guys. I have never done it before so I figure now is as a good of time as any at trying it.

I think I may have to replace the exhaust seats because they look fairly pitted and maybe I can just have hardened seats put in on them, I thought I read somewhere the exhaust valves are the ones that need the hardened seats anyway still debating on the larger intake valves.

See Ya,
Mike
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redhotcomet
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by redhotcomet »

Hardened exhaust seats are supposed to be better for unleaded fuel. The lead helped to lubricate the exhaust valves and seats IIRC. Some people say you don't need hardened seats, but if you're going to do them, may as well put in hardened ones. I don't think they're necessary for intake valves. But maybe some engine builders will chime in who are better informed than I am.
1964 Caliente hardtop, 302/T5/8.8"

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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

Got 6 of these today and a starter

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One or two pieces at a time :roll:

Will need to try and remark two of the rods to say 5&6

See Ya,
Mike
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Rocket989
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by Rocket989 »

Is that a hand-crank to get it fired-up?!?!! :D :lol: :lol: :mrgreen: :D
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

Rocket989 wrote:Is that a hand-crank to get it fired-up?
I hope it certainly fires it up some :? :lol:

I was messing with comparing the rods today and pulled one of the rod bearings out, pretty sure they are the original.

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And I know this is a crude way to show the difference in length but I don't have a way to press the wrist pin out, so the "precision" ruler is sitting against the pin and then you can see on the other one I was measuring from edge to edge on the holes.

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A bit of difference in length, hopefully I have solved my quench issues if I can keep from getting the CR too high.

I also was checking to see if the rod bolts were the same because I am wanting to have ARP bolts installed and I wasn't sure what to order, looks like regular SBF bolts will work, have to see if I can find a 6cyl set so I don't have to buy the 4 extra, expensive bolts - I think we know why that is :roll: I switched the rod caps and nuts here to see if they were a match, I was pretty confident they were but better safe than sorry.

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Everything looks good for ignition!

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I really need to order pistons soon so I think I need to do some more measuring.

See Ya,
Mike
Mike's build thread
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