Lavron's '64 Build Thread

The Era of The Square Body Racing Comets
popscomet
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by popscomet »

Rocket989 wrote:Dang it, I MEANT 30... :roll: :D :lol:

And yeah, fine motor skills are the first to go...!
Jims65cyclone wrote:Hope your attention to detail isn't proportional to the number of cans left in the pak as the day wears on. :roll: :lol: :lol:
Jim
so true :!: :shock: ....that's when you fall back on LEFTY=LOOSEY,,,and RIGHTY=TIGHTY :!: :wink:
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RideAndShoot
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by RideAndShoot »

so true :!: :shock: ....that's when you fall back on LEFTY=LOOSEY,,,and RIGHTY=TIGHTY :!: :wink:
Hell, if only that worked for dyslexics! If I had a dollar for every time I had to hold up my pointer finger and thumb from both hands and see which one makes an L, I could retire already. That and having to count out on a standard(analog) clock to figure out the damn time. :oops:
Chop everything, nothing is sacred.
Destroying the essence of motorcycles, one part at a time. <——— Cars now too I guess.

popscomet
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by popscomet »

:lol: :lol: :lol: appears you have had your back to the wall a time or 3 :shock: ....but where's there is a will,,,,,there will be a way :wink: :!: :!: it's hard to keep a good man down....luck to ya ! POP
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

So now I have the pistons and rods I need to gt a few other things while finding a machine shop, mostly rings and bearings.

Rock Auto has 3 different brands of bearings, it looks like aluminum are the cheaper ones and tri-metal are the more expensive, brand choice going from cheap to expensive are; Enginetech, Sealed Power and Mahle/Cleavite (there is also a set of alum. cleavites cheaper than sealed power) Not necessarily looking to go with the cheapest but I don't want to spend unnecessarily if I don't need too.

Rings I have less choice for 0.20 oversized ones, the choice is really what I can get in either plain cast or moly rings, I think I am ok with cast because the break-in will be easier, cost difference is around $40 for Sealed Power cast or $60 for either SP or Cleavite moly rings.

Anyone have any insight on any of these, is there a brand I should avoid?

The ARP rod bolts better be worth the $75 and having them installed, I guess that is mostly piece of mind because in reality I can not imagine I will ever break a stock rod bolt.

See Ya,
Mike
Mike's build thread
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13058
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Rocket989
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by Rocket989 »

The moly rings are more durable and since you’re having the cylinders bored, not a bad idea. For regular driving with a mild motor I think either is fine! I don’t know what the price diff is but I’d definitely lean towards the Clevite bearings! :lol:
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

I would like to report some grand progress but I haven't done diddly :roll: with the holidays here.

I need to go ahead and order my ARP rod bolts and a set of bearings I guess so I can get ready to get some machine work done.

See Ya,
Mike
Mike's build thread
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13058
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Jims65cyclone
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by Jims65cyclone »

Yeah, Diddly hangs around here, too, and doesn't get much attention from me, either. :lol: :lol:
Jim
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popscomet
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by popscomet »

lavron wrote:I would like to report some grand progress but I haven't done diddly :roll: with the holidays here.

I need to go ahead and order my ARP rod bolts and a set of bearings I guess so I can get ready to get some machine work done.

See Ya,
Mike
you may want to wait til you get machine work done to get parts ,UNLES, you are for sure the crank and bore are what their size is...jmo...pop
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

popscomet wrote:you may want to wait til you get machine work done to get parts ,UNLES, you are for sure the crank and bore are what their size is...jmo...pop
Thanks Pops, yes I already got my .020 pistons that took 3 months to get :roll: I am fairly confident they will be fine. I can hold off on the bearings even though I am fairly confident the standard sizes will be fine, I believe 250 rod (and maybe crank) are SBF size (interchangeable) so they should be easier to source, that has been the hardest part of the engine build is the rarity of specific 250 parts. well except I had to get Aussie 250 pistons because I wanted the higher compression pin height (or lower whichever it is) so I could fix the piston shortfall and they are even rarer than US 250 stuff (which the piston in a 250 are 200 pistons so they are not rare at all).

I am sure when the 250 came out in the US, Ford was trying to hit some magical emission number so they basically "de-tuned" the motor, Aussies, on the other hand, developed the inline 6 beyond what we did here in the US and built some pretty good inlines that could put the 8 guys to shame, all that to say they got the piston right and that one particular piston when combined with the proper, longer, length rod (in my case the 2.5L HSC Tempo rod, which is rare as well) I am back to a long stroke, zero deck (almost, will be with around a .010 block shave) engine running SBF sized 7 main, crank which should be way overbuilt for the motor.

I guess that is my story on why I am doing what I am, for anyone who did not know :P and why I have to source most my parts ahead of time, because as much as I want to keep most the Comet running readily available "off the shelf" parts there are a few things I just can't get or I want to make "improvements" on the original design. At least from the flywheel back the running gear will be '98 Ford stuff mostly, so hopefully any of those maintenance parts will be easy to get (starters, brakes, etc). I hope never to buy pistons or rods, for this Comet again so I am trying to it right this time.

See Ya,
Mike
Mike's build thread
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13058
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popscomet
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by popscomet »

CARRY ON MY FRIEND !! your doing great ....I had a 250 6 in a 1975 f100 pu,,was a great engine...thanks and good luck.......pop
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

Looks like I have not posted here this year yet :roll:

I drug out the replacement steering wheel for my '64 that I got several years ago off eBay, I soaked it in degreaser last fall and it has been sitting in the closet since then and I have mentioned repairing it so that is my next project, I know this has been covered already here but thought I would share as well. I haven't started yet but here are a few pictures of what I am starting with.

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Just cleaned is all, overall the wheel is not bad, it does have cracks and a few scuffs and nicks in it, here are the hub cracks;

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This one does not reach all the way around;

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And a smaller one on the other side;

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Then there is just one on the outer rim;

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And the last thing is several nicks and scuffs like this on the wheel;

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Overall a good wheel, my intention is to repair and repaint and then do a leather wrap for the rim (attempt) my original wheel had one of the cheap wraps I put on as a kid (many, many years ago) so I have never driven the car without one so I think I should have it that way again, I would like to do a better job this time and try my hand at actual stitched leather, we will see how that goes.

I bought this last fall and is what I am going to use to fill the cracks after cleaning them out with the dremel, I hope this is the right stuff.

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More to come, I will try and post pictures as I progress.

See Ya,
Mike
Mike's build thread
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13058
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Rocket989
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by Rocket989 »

PC-7 is pretty good stuff. I worked in a hardware store when it came out. The demo display came with a glass bottle that had all kinds of crap (wood dowel rod, bolt, etc.) glued to it. :lol: :lol:
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poboyjo65
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by poboyjo65 »

Yep good stuff. my wheel is basically made out of that stuff.totally covered & built up with several coats of it. after you apply it,keep an eye on it. dont rake it out of the cracks but when it gets semi dry you can sand or kinda cut the biggest part of the excess off. like rasping off excess bondo while it is still soft. another trick I learned was to put tape on both sides of the cracks.then when you sand it down the tape will give you something to go by ,to know where the edge of the crack is,then after you pull the tape the epoxy will still have a slight rise & edge where the tape was & can be real gentle taking it down the rest of the way. this saves you from sanding out too low & having to do a re coat.
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

I was curious about drilling at each end of the cracks to prevent them from cracking further, really do not know if that would apply to a steering wheel like it does things like windshields :roll:

See Ya,
Mike
Mike's build thread
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poboyjo65
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by poboyjo65 »

Where it has any cracks you need to ''V'' it out down to the metal if the crack is that deep & blow it out with air. & V it out at the end of the crack, for the ones that don't go all way around. that way the epoxy fills the void completely. so the epoxy gets packed on vs trying to rake it in skinny cracks. the epoxy is kinda like concrete,a little sliver of it is more brittle ,,, thicker & smoother edges are stronger & less likely to chip. This also removes the old brittle & dirty edges of the crack.
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