Lavron's '64 Build Thread

[lavron]

Started building my rear transmission mount.


1/2"X2" steel that, yes I welded with my little HF welder, I need to get the holes filed to slots so I can have some fore and aft adjustment, not looking forward to filing but really don't have an alternative way to do it I will be building the frame mount part after that and welding them on the top of the angled arms, I will take pictures

EDIT: It wasn't that bad only took less than 20 minutes to file the slots out, I could file them a little smoother but they work fine like this.


See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

I got the transmission mount "finished" and in there for the mock up, I think I will need to do some modification to it because when I installed it it is slightly out of level and the left arm appears a bit short.


It is hard to tell in the car but you can see the two upper mounts are not the same one side is shorter but that is how it wanted to sit and I have to admit it is a little hard to tell while you are laying on the floor looking up at it that it is right.


If I need to fix it it is not a big deal, I have fixed stuff before may work out for me anyway because I am going to have to check and see if I can get the speedo cable on there, if not I will have to do some modification to the left side anyway.

Motor mounts are next in line.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

I decided to use the crooked trans mount to my advantage and tilted the motor slightly to match (lifted the drivers side 1/8-1/4") it had some good effects in that it gave me a little more clearance between the oil pump and the steering rack, also the the part where the shifter attaches tilted slightly toward the driver and now is level. I think it is 3 to 4 degrees tilted but it is not a slant 6

So I started making motor mounts today, the left one is almost done so I will start on the right next, it should go faster because it is a mirror image of the left one. I am making them out of the front lower 4-link mounts I did not use, in this picture the unmodified one is on the right (if you couldn't tell )


I am also using some of the end links from the 4-link kit for frame mounts, I am going to attach them like this and I am adding a gusset not shown here.


I am hoping it will all be strong enough for my super powerful inline 6

Keeping at it.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

Busy day today just not on the Comet I was shoveling dirt in the garden project I did however get to do something.

This morning I decided to paint my valve cover, I have been thinking about how I wanted it and decided I kinda liked it silver and thought I would try and make it look like bead blasted aluminum like the water pump, I may end up buying some Eastwood Aluminum Blast paint (or it is called something like that) but I used some aluminum paint on it and then dusted it with cold galvanizing paint to kinda fade the brightness, it isn't too bad and I really can't get a decent picture of it, I took some this morning and the sun shining in the shed made it look white, I just ran back out there (it is dark) and took a picture using the trouble light to see. my other thought is maybe a coat of satin clear on it to give it a little more smoothness.


Now I have to come up with a way to bead blast my timing cover and thermostat housing. The block and head will be satin black btw (probably the oil pan too because it will be Frankenpan) I thought the satin black and blasted aluminum would be a good combination and not too "blingy"

After I got done digging I went ahead and got the other motor mount made, cut the frame mounts and gussets and got the gussets welded to the tubes before it got too dark to see, tomorrow I should be able to get them welded in after I grind the paint back off the crossmember.


There are grade 8 bolts to go where the grade 5 bolt is but it was laying close to my hand so I stuck it in there Not sure grade 8 is really needed the original motor mount bolts were grade 5 but thought it couldn't hurt anything

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

There you have it, basically the motor mounts and transmission mounts are done, I still need to weld the backside of the motor mounts and do a little grinding on the front because I had a tough time hanging down in there and welding I will pretty it up later after I get the engine pulled back out.


I also checked on the oil pan modifications, this is basically what I need to do.


The place where the oil pump is does not have to be present on the other side and I could make a little sump for it somehow.


I may make a cardboard oil pan so I can get it in 3D and be able to take it someplace for someone else to weld up. Wish I was talented enough to just make a new pan

See Ya,
Mike

[poboyjo65]

I may make a cardboard oil pan so I can get it in 3D and be able to take it someplace for someone else to weld up.
See Ya,
Mike

I thought about doing that when I made my aluminum fuel cell. But I was afraid they might not get it right . or that they might not pay as much attention to detail as I wanted for it to fit right. so I decided to get the aluminum & cut & bend the pieces myself. I found a welder who would let me help him build it,basically I just cut all the pieces including a baffle & inlet pipe & shaped them to fit together & helped him hold it while he tig welded it. It turned out just like I wanted

[Jims65cyclone]

I also checked on the oil pan modifications, this is basically what I need to do.


The place where the oil pump is does not have to be present on the other side and I could make a little sump for it somehow.

Mike.....I"m confused about the shape of your oil pan. It looks like you're creating a weir in the pan where the hump is to clear the rack. If the oil level were to get down to the level of the hump, or close to it, the oil in the back of the pan couldn't flow over the weir to supply the pump. All the oil that is below the level of the top of the hump behind the pump is not available to the pump, is it? Am I looking at it wrong?
Jim

[lavron]

the oil in the back of the pan couldn't flow over the weir to supply the pump. All the oil that is below the level of the top of the hump behind the pump is not available to the pump, is it? Am I looking at it wrong?

The pickup would be in the rear like all rear sump pans. Ford has a few pans that have double sumps, like this - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-Rac ... 49711.html

I really don't have a choice because I can't raise the engine any higher or make the steering rack any lower.

I thought about doing that when I made my aluminum fuel cell. But I was afraid they might not get it right . or that they might not pay as much attention to detail as I wanted for it to fit right. so I decided to get the aluminum & cut & bend the pieces myself. I found a welder who would let me help him build it,basically I just cut all the pieces including a baffle & inlet pipe & shaped them to fit together & helped him hold it while he tig welded it. It turned out just like I wanted

I may do the same, at least get it tacked together and then find a good welder, I watched a youtube where a guy built an oil pan I just don't have the skill or equipment to do it.

See Ya,
Mike

[SASSY]

U have plenty enough talent and equipment to make a pan from what I've seen in this thread!!!!!!
Put a zip disk in the grinder and cut on the pan till you can get it on the motor in the car, bolt the pan rail to a heavy metal plate grab some tin and have at it,,, what's the worst that could happen?
Get a couple pickup tubes and find a way to the low part of the pan with maybe a support to a main bolt,,, don't forget to paint it

[lavron]

what's the worst that could happen?

I might be searching for another pan (not reproduced), not sure why I always pick rare things to work on

U have plenty enough talent and equipment to make a pan from what I've seen in this thread!!!!!!

Thanks, I would really like to try, I know in my head what I want just takes getting up enough nerve to chop away at it

Can a person seal a pan or do I need to just be diligent and not leave any pin holes?

See Ya,
Mike

[poboyjo65]

U have plenty enough talent and equipment to make a pan from what I've seen in this thread!!!!!!

Fred has a good point. & he's not one to let a door slam in his face. & if it did he's liable to tear it down,cut it up & make a roll top desk out of it. so take a kick in the pants from him & me & go for it. If you have some scraps of the same pan or same thickness metal to practice on & get your settings set just right. Even if you screw up a couple pans it'd probably be cheaper than farming it out. AND if your gonna tack it together you might as well just keep going,after it is all tacked up just put a tack between all the other tacks & just keep doing that, keep it clean & wire brushed as you go slow ,keeping it cool.
take you time,stay comfortable,& keep it where you can see it good.


what kind of pan is it? 250? just a regular 250 oil pan?

[bigdan]

1) 351W's had an oddly similar set up oil pan in trucks (I think 4x4 Broncos) that was almost a "center sump" that worked fine. Sure, the pump itself may keep an inch or so of oil up front, but it'll stay full and simply run over to the lower part of the pan where the pickup is. I'd just make sure that forward section had oil in it on initial fill.
2) If it were me, I'd grab a couple of cheap steel small block pans (Summit has them for around $30 I think), at least a front sump pan and a rear sump pan, and use them for your mods. Should keep the hammering to a minimum and be just a cut/ paste endeavor.

Just my 2 cents - but looking good!

Dan

[lavron]

what kind of pan is it? 250? just a regular 250 oil pan?

Yes and like I said you have to find used ones.

Even if you screw up a couple pans it'd probably be cheaper than farming it out. AND if your gonna tack it together you might as well just keep going,after it is all tacked up just put a tack between all the other tacks & just keep doing that, keep it clean & wire brushed as you go slow ,keeping it cool. take you time,stay comfortable,& keep it where you can see it good.

Thanks, this is good advice about being comfortable and able to see probably the best way to make good welds, at least for me.

If it were me, I'd grab a couple of cheap steel small block pans (Summit has them for around $30 I think), at least a front sump pan and a rear sump pan, and use them for your mods. Should keep the hammering to a minimum and be just a cut/ paste endeavor.

I might check into it, I looked at the 351W pan and thought it looked about like what I needed except stretched out, I am curious what the width differences are?

If you have some scraps of the same pan or same thickness metal to practice on & get your settings set just right.

Might check on my next JY run, they have a pile of junk motors they might let me have a couple of pans off of cheap.

I appreciate the encouragement, the oil pan is the last of the major modified parts to be done on the install and has bothered me for a while so it will be a relief to have it behind me.

See Ya,
Mike

[Cobraguy]

I've been toying with grafting the bottom of a fox body 302 pan on mine.

[Santa's Comet]

If I remember right the early Bronco had a oil pan with a hump in the middle!
You are doing great!
NP Dave