Lavron's '64 Build Thread

[poboyjo65]

One thing I wish I had done better ( yea I skimped a little) when I had mine apart was to insulate the firewall better. I would use the dynomat type stuff on all of it & part of the tunnel & floor. & I would get a new original type insulation. as well as jute on the cowl & everywhere under there that isnt covered.
Engine heat is no fun in the summer!!! I now have a box of the generic dynamat waiting on me.
another mistake I did was I insulated before I had all the welding done. when I welded the brace on the cowl lip (to strengthen it up for an export brace) I melted part of my insulation. Just be sure all of the welding /grinding & stuff is done before you paint or insulate the firewall.

[lavron]

another mistake I did was I insulated before I had all the welding done. when I welded the brace on the cowl lip (to strengthen it up for an export brace) I melted part of my insulation. Just be sure all of the welding /grinding & stuff is done before you paint or insulate the firewall.

Yes, I am not too worried about the inside of the car yet, I might just clean and prime the firewall on the engine side and bend all my brake lines up and mount them and just take them off when I'm finally ready to paint, I am pretty sure I will bang into it mocking the engine up and stuff, so just getting it clean and protected right now will be good enough. I guess I am just wishing I was done (done'er)

I am sure it will take a while to get all of the stuff worked out, I just need to practice a bit more patients

At least everything is nice and fairly clean under the dash (not counting rodent nests) it was funny, back when I was in high school I replaced the rotted rubber cowl vent with a big plastic margarine tub, duct tape and some large hose clamps, it was still in good shape after 38 years.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

I think I might have to fix the drivers floor soon, working under the dash every time I drop something it falls through the hole onto the floor under the car, I think the hole has a gravitational pull (it is even under the license plate if you look back at the dash picture) I am getting tired of fishing stuff out from under the car

I guess before I put anything back on the firewall I should mock the engine/trans back in the car, I think I will mock up and build the mounts for the seats at the same time so I can see how my shifter location is going to work for me, I have been dying to know how the shifter is going to set (plus I can sit in there and pretend I am driving ) plus I need an excuse to clean up the inside of the car and get that nasty headliner out of there.

See Ya,
Mike

[bigdan]

I'm at the firewall insulation point on mine as well - looking at Eastwood's X-mat, but not sure yet.

Good idea on the master cylinder with the right hand ports, that ought to make clutch master plumbing a little less complicated. I wish I'd of thought of that!

Looking good -

Dan

[lavron]

Good idea on the master cylinder with the right hand ports

I actually think things through sometimes before I buy As long as I don't change those plans midway through because of something else and then have to switch it back to the original plan again. I think probably on a V8 it might be a little less convenient because you might be getting close to the valve cover. My clutch master plumbs on the left so everything should work out ok.

I was checking on doing a mechanical brake light switch but as far as I could tell from everything I was able to find on the web, the '65 pedal must have a longer pin on the pedal than the '64 and then the pushrod is different, so barring finding a '65 brake pedal and pushrod I can either do the hydraulic stitch again or add a '70s Ford pickup switch in place of the rubber bumper on the current pedal. Those are the options I see unless someone knows different.

See Ya,
Mike

[bigdan]

Not sure what you've dug up, but here's a 65 pedal and the replacement switch I used. It just slips on over the pin and push rod, so it might for depending on your configuration. I grabbed this one from Ecklers.

Dan

[lavron]

but here's a 65 pedal

I think the pin must be shorter on the '64, I don't have the cotter pin but a C clip holding the rod to the pedal, otherwise, as near I can tell, that looks just like the one I have.

If you get a chance could you measure the pin? I will see what size mine is as well, if it is a matter of drilling a hole for a cotter pin I can do that, I know the pushrod is different but I can pick a new one of those up pretty easy, I found an adjustable one for under $20 delivered.

I stole a few minutes today and went out pulled a little more wiring harness loose from under the dash the only thing left is to pull the harness loose from the ignition switch, I did not label anything because I am not intending to put it back, so that may be a mistake on my part

The funny thing is when I pulled the fuse block off the headlight switch (which won't pull out anymore, aka broken) there is only 4 circuits and I was just using 3, not sure what the last one is, I guess I need to look it up.


I have been worried about how big of replacement harness I needed to get, maybe not as big as I thought the only stuff I am adding is A/C and the air-ride compressor maybe a sound system of some kind but just something to make sound no giant subs or anything, beginning to wonder if the 14 circuit harness would suffice?

EDIT: The empty one is the radio, makes sense, never had one

See Ya,
Mike

[Cobraguy]

I got some pictures on my thread over at the Ford six forum of other people's oil pans.

https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=78629

pics are in the latest replies

[Cobraguy]

For my brake light switch I used a GM button style switch and made an "L" bracket that I hose clamped to the side of the steering column. The switch was less than $10 the bracket I made from scraps.

[Jims65cyclone]

I will mock up and build the mounts for the seats at the same time so I can see how my shifter location is going to work for me, I have been dying to know how the shifter is going to set

I don't recall.....are you using a Mustang or an S-10 tail piece?

(plus I can sit in there and pretend I am driving )

I can remember doing that when I was about 10 years old, sitting in my dad's P/U truck in the driveway. I'd shift gears, signal turns, etc. and "drive" to some wonderful places.

Jim

[lavron]

I got some pictures on my thread over at the Ford six forum of other people's oil pans.

Gotta love that Mike guy with Fairmont/250/turbo, spent half the day looking thorough his build, still didn't reach the end. Love his oil pan maybe I should latch onto a fox body 200 pan. Just wish my welding skills were a bit better.

I don't recall.....are you using a Mustang or an S-10 tail piece?

Mustang, plus the V-6 bell housing so I will be even further back, but from the pictures everyone has shown I should be ok, just might have to reach over my shoulder to shift I really want to get an idea of how long/offset/bend of shifter I need to be looking for.

I can remember doing that when I was about 10 years old, sitting in my dad's P/U truck in the driveway. I'd shift gears, signal turns, etc. and "drive" to some wonderful places.

I would do that while my dad was trying to work on his truck under the hood (not running) he tended to yell at me for running the gas pedal for some reason

See Ya,
Mike

[Rocket989]

You won’t!! Shifter is in the perfect place IMO!! I’m using the a Pro 5.0 shifter w/ std. Fox ‘Stang Hurst shifter.

[poboyjo65]

I found you a universal brake light switch!

[lavron]

I found you a universal brake light switch!

I guess it goes to show that there is a solution for every problem

See Ya,
Mike

[loman]

I found you a universal brake light switch!

Johno, when did you take a picture of my brake switch setup?