Lavron's '64 Build Thread

[lavron]

I used a conversion u-joint on the aluminum DS with a yoke that fit the T5

So you had to use a conversion U-Joint anyway? If that is the case will the yoke work off my old driveshaft? I know it slipped right in there but was not sure what the difference there would be in diameter if any. My old trans was a top loader 3-speed out of a Maverick. I will head out and do some Googling.

See Ya,
Mike

[62Cometman]

Im not sure what U-joint the CV driveshaft is using but spicer offers units that use the 1310 sized joint, they also make on that uses the 1330 if necessary at about double the cost

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-28- ... 69116.html

[lavron]

Im not sure what U-joint the CV driveshaft is using but spicer offers units that use the 1310 sized joint

From what info I have been able to gather it looks like it should be a 1350 on the CV shaft, I will look at it tomorrow and see if it has a number.

I didn't see a u-joint for 1310-1350 on Speedway but sure don't want to pay over $100+ for the yoke, that is more than I gave for the driveshaft

See Ya,
Mike

[redhotcomet]

I think the yoke I used also fit an AOD. Very possible that the 3 speed/T5/AOD yokes are all essentially the same. Its what I had, and it worked with a conversion u-joint, so thats what I used.


Edit: I took the CV u-joint and the front yoke to the local NAPA and they were able to get me a conversion u-joint. I think it was $50 CDN or so which I didn't think was too bad.

[redhotcomet]

The rear flange bolts are M12x1.75 thread, about 250mm or 1 inch long. The factory bolts have 12mm 12 point flange heads on them.

[lavron]

The rear flange bolts are M12x1.75 thread, about 250mm or 1 inch long. The factory bolts have 12mm 12 point flange heads on them.

Thanks I did a search and found these on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Driveshaft- ... B00GK4XGW4

Looks like that will work for me.

I took the CV u-joint and the front yoke to the local NAPA and they were able to get me a conversion u-joint. I think it was $50 CDN or so which I didn't think was too bad.

You guys are a great help, my concern with using my old slip yoke is if the outside diameter is not large enough, even-though it looks and feels ok, right now my choice is to use the conversion u-joint and risk it which would run $20 - $30 or buy the 1350 slip yoke I found here; https://www.actionmachineinc.com/collec ... 1496173620 which would be about $73 including shipping. I also found this one on eBAY for $60 including shipping but wasn't sure it was right; https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Ford-Trans ... 2358525910 If I get one with a 1350 joint I will just reuse my current u-joint.

Certainly by far the cheapest route is the conversion u-joint and my original yoke

See Ya,
Mike

[redhotcomet]

Those bolts look correct to me.

Looks like the OD of the slip yoke is 1.5" (or 1.499 if you want to be exact). If you measure the slip yoke you have, my bet is that it will be the same. However, you may want to order a new one that takes 1350 joints. Should hold up better behind your monster powertrain! (kidding!) Either way its not a big expense.

Is the DS length going to work the way you have everything set up?

[lavron]

However, you may want to order a new one that takes 1350 joints. Should hold up better behind your monster powertrain!

Is the DS length going to work the way you have everything set up?

I don't know, I hope so, but going to put the engine and trans back in and mock everything up and see. I need to find out if the rear tunnel needs to be modified as well.

Looks like the OD of the slip yoke is 1.5" (or 1.499 if you want to be exact). If you measure the slip yoke you have, my bet is that it will be the same.

I am heading out to the shed right now to check the yokes, I am leaning toward using my old one for a few reasons #1 is expense, it will be cheaper and I am supposed to be doing a budget build #2 the old driveshaft will probably sit in the corner until after I am dead and gone so I may as well use the yoke #3 if I had a powerful motor I would go with the 1350 yoke but don't think I am going to break the old yoke.

Now I have figure out what the u-joint is, hopefully it will be marked but I am guessing it is 1310 most likely.

See Ya,
Mike

[SASSY]

I forget what the application was but something to do with Sassy but I used cups from one joint on another joint to get the right sizes. Point, I think some of the crosses in the joints are the same and "they" just made the cups different.

[lavron]

I forget what the application was but something to do with Sassy but I used cups from one joint on another joint to get the right sizes. Point, I think some of the crosses in the joints are the same and "they" just made the cups different.

I have done the same, I took two different u-joints and made two conversion u-joints out of them, I think they must have been really close to the same size.

I went out and pulled the yokes off of both driveshafts, cleaned up the old one and am going to stop at the parts store today and see if they can fix me up.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

OK for anyone interested in doing the same I picked up a conversion u-joint and installed the old yoke (3.3 top loader 3-speed) onto the Crown Vic Police driveshaft, the part is MOOG 448 but you can probably cross reference that number and find the same from a different manufacturer;



It is 1310 on one side and 1350 on the other, and was $31. When I twist this yoke off there I will buy a 1350 T5 yoke

Will try and check length sometime soon but will have to throw the motor and trans back in the car, I need to figure out a box around the shifter anyway and place my air ride box correctly so it needs to happen. This is one reason the motor has not made a trip to the machine shop yet because I won't be able to mock stuff up when it is gone.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

Just the electrical stuff I have collected up so far, still need to get some quality wire and connectors but this is a start anyway.


Some of that stuff that is hard to tell what is in that picture; the big black box on the far right (the two box looking things are one part, the covers are on the right) is a relay box, it holds 5 regular relays and on weird one (not sure what it is) plus a row of fuses (6) you have to wire the sockets yourself but it included the connectors. In the middle is the fuse boxes (2 of them one is under the other) not sure I will use both but just in case I have an extra, they have water tight/proof seals on the top lid. To the immediate left of the fuse boxes is the bulkhead connector that will go through the firewall. Then a battery disconnect, some fuses and an electronic flasher for using LED bulbs. Jumping back up to the upper right is a couple of Vair compressor relays and some relay sockets. And then finally on the bottom is a battery terminal for attaching multiple leads, a ground bus, two large fuse holders and some 60 amp fuses.

I may have a few other things but this is the bulk of what I have acquired so far.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

I got my first thing from wish.com, a 5 speed shift knob. It was $13 and made from aluminum with the numbers recessed into the top, I really wanted black with white numbers but the black ones have red numbers so I guess that will work for me.

It is not bad except the adapters are plastic even though the picture showed them being aluminum and there are three included. they are threaded on the outside for the knob but are just smooth bore holes on the part that fits on the shifter arm, none of the holes were right anyway so I drilled the smallest one out and tapped to match my shifter arm.

Other modifications I made was to to drop a nut in the bottom of the hole (just as a spacer) and mix up some two part epoxy putty and drop it in the bottom of the hole.


I actually made a little rope of putty and shoved it down into the nut hole and then put a ball on the bottom of the nut where the adapter screws up against it, of course I screwed it on tight with the numbers right side up


I may never get the knob back off but I can slide the shifter boot up from the bottom so it shouldn't make any difference.

The knob is slightly bigger than the original plastic one (that had no shift pattern on it) It actually is a little nicer than the original as far as the knob, my only complaint is the plastic adapters (ok so the original is a plastic knob including the part that screws onto the arm, I guess plastic or nylon, adapters should hold up ok) and it was made in China but Hurst balls are probably made in China as well for a lot more money (like $35+).

I guess it is kinda silly getting one with the shift pattern on it at all I already know how to shift a 5-speed I guess I was kinda wanting something with a classic look to it.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

I was reviewing my own build thread, I like to see how often I change my plans So a funny thing from a post I made January 18, 2016 (2+ years ago)

Thanks it is hard too wait starting the actual work on the Comet, but if I can get everything planned out and all my ducks in a row it might be quicker to build (I hope)

On June 15, 2018 the ducks aligned

Currently it seems several/most of the ducks have migrated south for the winter

See Ya,
Mike

[Jims65cyclone]

On June 15, 2018 the ducks aligned

Currently it seems several/most of the ducks have migrated south for the winter

Yea, I've missed the daily reports on huge leaps in progress since they left. Hopefully, they'll return in early spring, refreshed and ready for a push to the finish.

Jim