Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Franken-Pan is finished, this was a project I have dreaded for a while, it wasn't that bad I guess it makes me nervous working without a net
So I am going to string a bunch of pictures here with short comments (I hope) on how I did it.
First you need a perfectly good 250 oil pan like this;
But before I start chopping this thing up, I need to measure a few things so I put the motor in with all the mounts and made this template that showed the minimum requirements for everything to fit.
Then let the cutting begin.
I left the rear section in the pan until all the welding was done BTW and cut it out near the end.
I reinstalled the cut pan and checked clearances again, looks good over the steering rack on each side.
I welded up a box and patchworked some heavier galvanized steel together that had leftover from building the shed (going to guess around 18 gauge, approx. 8"X2" C-channel)
I then welded all the added parts together separate from the original pan to avoid warping the pan as much as possible. I bolted the pan fully to the block and welded the added part onto the pan.
I made a dipstick tube out of a piece of pre-flared 3/8" brake line from the auto parts store (12") I cut the flare off one end, made a tube to attach an inverted flare to 1/4"NPT adapter to out of a piece of scrap metal (tractor stabilizer bar) and a 1/4" NPT nut (from an old light fixture) welded to a heavy washer. I also added a couple of 1/2" NPT drain bungs.
At this point I unbolted the pan and gave a sigh of relief, it was not warped at all as far as I could tell, I cut the rest of the bottom out of the original pan and made some baffles and welded them inside the pan.
I then cleaned up all the welds, acid etched the pan and applied marine-tex epoxy to all the seams because I do not trust my welding to be leak free
Then I sanded it down and added a little thin coat of JB Weld to some low spots (you know to make it smoother and prettier)
Next was a coat of POR15 to the entire pan.
I have read, right or wrong, if you want to paint POR15 you need to fog it with primer or paint as soon as it flashes (if you want paint to stick), I may have missed that window but dusted it with primer anyway.
And finally after that was dry I sprayed it with truck bed lining finishing it up.
While I was waiting on paint to dry, etc. I went ahead and made the rear sump oil pick-up tube (or modified the original). I used a 9" piece of 3/4" tube, the original slipped snugly inside the pipe, and welded.
I guessed on the stud mount main because I don't have the bolt yet, so I may be modifying the mount in the future when I finally track down a main bolt with a stud.
Everything fits fine and I have magnetic drain plugs on the way, so this little project is finished, I am about to run out of excuses for not taking this engine to the machine shop now.
See Ya,
Mike
So I am going to string a bunch of pictures here with short comments (I hope) on how I did it.
First you need a perfectly good 250 oil pan like this;
But before I start chopping this thing up, I need to measure a few things so I put the motor in with all the mounts and made this template that showed the minimum requirements for everything to fit.
Then let the cutting begin.
I left the rear section in the pan until all the welding was done BTW and cut it out near the end.
I reinstalled the cut pan and checked clearances again, looks good over the steering rack on each side.
I welded up a box and patchworked some heavier galvanized steel together that had leftover from building the shed (going to guess around 18 gauge, approx. 8"X2" C-channel)
I then welded all the added parts together separate from the original pan to avoid warping the pan as much as possible. I bolted the pan fully to the block and welded the added part onto the pan.
I made a dipstick tube out of a piece of pre-flared 3/8" brake line from the auto parts store (12") I cut the flare off one end, made a tube to attach an inverted flare to 1/4"NPT adapter to out of a piece of scrap metal (tractor stabilizer bar) and a 1/4" NPT nut (from an old light fixture) welded to a heavy washer. I also added a couple of 1/2" NPT drain bungs.
At this point I unbolted the pan and gave a sigh of relief, it was not warped at all as far as I could tell, I cut the rest of the bottom out of the original pan and made some baffles and welded them inside the pan.
I then cleaned up all the welds, acid etched the pan and applied marine-tex epoxy to all the seams because I do not trust my welding to be leak free
Then I sanded it down and added a little thin coat of JB Weld to some low spots (you know to make it smoother and prettier)
Next was a coat of POR15 to the entire pan.
I have read, right or wrong, if you want to paint POR15 you need to fog it with primer or paint as soon as it flashes (if you want paint to stick), I may have missed that window but dusted it with primer anyway.
And finally after that was dry I sprayed it with truck bed lining finishing it up.
While I was waiting on paint to dry, etc. I went ahead and made the rear sump oil pick-up tube (or modified the original). I used a 9" piece of 3/4" tube, the original slipped snugly inside the pipe, and welded.
I guessed on the stud mount main because I don't have the bolt yet, so I may be modifying the mount in the future when I finally track down a main bolt with a stud.
Everything fits fine and I have magnetic drain plugs on the way, so this little project is finished, I am about to run out of excuses for not taking this engine to the machine shop now.
See Ya,
Mike
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Got out and got the head pulled back off the block, cleaned the block up and sprayed it down good with WD, sat the crank back down in it, covered it all with a big trash bag and rolled it to the back of the shed.
Called the machinist that I got the name of and left a message, will see if he will call back. Talked to a local mechanic and said O'Reilly's was the only choice around so may have to use them.
Cleaned up some more stuff in the shed and found some bolts I was missing. I also put my oil pickup in some Purple Power to soak, I had never properly cleaned it and I want to make sure I get all the sludge out of the pickup area.
Getting ready to pick a new area to work on since the motor is out of the picture for a bit, I think I will work on getting the engine bay finished and getting that sway bar mounted up high.
Some of the stuff on my radar right now are; getting the toque boxes finished, building seat mounts, hooking up the rear brakes, getting a clutch so I can get the slave cylinder set up. all that means you will probably see me work on totally something else that is not on this list
I may be getting close enough now that I need to make a list and start checking stuff off
See Ya,
Mike
Called the machinist that I got the name of and left a message, will see if he will call back. Talked to a local mechanic and said O'Reilly's was the only choice around so may have to use them.
Cleaned up some more stuff in the shed and found some bolts I was missing. I also put my oil pickup in some Purple Power to soak, I had never properly cleaned it and I want to make sure I get all the sludge out of the pickup area.
Getting ready to pick a new area to work on since the motor is out of the picture for a bit, I think I will work on getting the engine bay finished and getting that sway bar mounted up high.
Some of the stuff on my radar right now are; getting the toque boxes finished, building seat mounts, hooking up the rear brakes, getting a clutch so I can get the slave cylinder set up. all that means you will probably see me work on totally something else that is not on this list
I may be getting close enough now that I need to make a list and start checking stuff off
See Ya,
Mike
- Jims65cyclone
- Posts: 2769
- Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:29 pm
- Location: Lexington, SC
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Super work, Mike! I have thoroughly enjoyed following your build. What's the possibility of an unveiling at PF in 2020?
Jim
Jim
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Thanks Jim, I know it is not the same caliber as some have done but I am liking it.Jims65cyclone wrote:Super work, Mike! I have thoroughly enjoyed following your build.
Certainly a worthy goal. I did get a call back from the machinist he can bore but doesn't have the equipment to deck the block, in other words he can do everything I need except decking the the block, I am going to go by his place and see about having him do the stuff I need and then just shipping it off for decking, this guy is at least local and just from the phone conversation I think he is willing to help me out with checking stuff like the crank to see if it needs ground. This is the Ford guy and he builds race car motors mostly but does other things as well.Jims65cyclone wrote:What's the possibility of an unveiling at PF in 2020?
See Ya,
Mike
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Mike,
I've been using a mom and pop machine shop in central Mo for the machine work on my stroker and 390. Very happy with him. If you want his number let me know and I will PM it to you.
I've been using a mom and pop machine shop in central Mo for the machine work on my stroker and 390. Very happy with him. If you want his number let me know and I will PM it to you.
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Loman, send me the info and where they are located and I will determine the feasibility, a little small shop is preferable to me that I will get better service.loman wrote:Mike,
I've been using a mom and pop machine shop in central Mo for the machine work on my stroker and 390. Very happy with him. If you want his number let me know and I will PM it to you.
See Ya,
Mike
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Wish my pan looked that good! Great job Mike.
Fred
Fred
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Thanks Fred, I am glad it is done, I got pan plugs today so it really is done, well I need to check for leaks, I can't for see there being any but you never know until you test it.SASSY wrote:Wish my pan looked that good! Great job Mike.
Fred
I did a little more scrapping stuff together today and started making a new brace, of course I used some more of that trailer tongue (about to run out of usable pieces) and my 4-link bars I did not use on the rear.
I still need to make the fender mounts and will probably make them large enough to add a Montecarlo bar later when I know where the carb will be. Not sure I will use those bars, I might get some nicer ones in something lighter like aluminum, we will see
I am also going to do a little filling around the welds etc to make it more presentable because it will be something people will actually see.
See Ya,
Mike
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Mike the oil pan looks great!!
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Thanks Joe.comethead wrote:Mike the oil pan looks great!!
Been planting garden today so not much time for the Comet, I as out in the shed and snapped a closer picture of the firewall mount on my homemade export brace.
I think I will just go ahead and use these bars and save my money for something else, next week I should get the fender brackets made and I am just going to cut the bar ends at an angle and weld them solid to the fender brackets, they will still be removable by taking off the plate and pulling the bolt at the firewall.
Also the oil pickup tube has been soaking a couple of days in the Purple Power degreaser, looks almost as good as new.
See Ya,
Mike
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Mike you really want your braces to be solid not bushed. Any flex is unwanted and will fatigue the metal at stress points.
What are your plans on the engine build. Do your research and have a recipe when you drop it off.
What are your plans on the engine build. Do your research and have a recipe when you drop it off.
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Agreed, its job is to stop movement not allow some.Cobraguy wrote:Mike you really want your braces to be solid not bushed. Any flex is unwanted and will fatigue the metal at stress points.
What are your plans on the engine build. Do your research and have a recipe when you drop it off.
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Cobraguy wrote:Mike you really want your braces to be solid not bushed. Any flex is unwanted and will fatigue the metal at stress points.
I think I can remedy thatSASSY wrote:Agreed, its job is to stop movement not allow some.
I am having it bored 20 over and the pistons pressed onto the rods plus the ARP rod bolts installed, might have him remove and install the cam bearings. he is going to look at my crank and see if he thinks it needs ground. That is pretty much the extent of this visit, I will assemble the rotating parts afterward and check how much block decking needs done (hopefully around 10 thousandths) and either take it someplace else for decking or send it down for O'Reillys to do.Cobraguy wrote:What are your plans on the engine build. Do your research and have a recipe when you drop it off.
See Ya,
Mike
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Hopefully this will work for the new brace, I removed the rubber and replaced it with steel.lavron wrote:I think I can remedy that
I also got the lower mounts made, just need to drill the holes so I can bolt them to the fenders, I have them so they can use the factory holes that held the spring cover/bump stop mount, I can't remember what the two holes on top held before but I removed the bolts from them so they must have had something attached to them
Not sure if you can see it in that picture but I welded a couple of gussets to the bottom of the bars as well. My welds were pretty good except for where it was really hard to reach along the inside edge of the gusset, after I slopped the welds in there I wished I hadn't even done them hopefully later I can clean them them up with a die grinder or the Dremel.
Hopefully it is ok for basically a free export brace (not counting welding supplies and grinding/cut off wheels, or my time, it was free).
See Ya,
Mike
Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread
Oil Pan Leak Test Time! I am going to leave this a while and see if I get any seeping, so far the only place I saw a potential seep was around the brass fitting for the dipstick tube, I am going to put some teflon tape or similar on the threads and just haven't done it, there is an O ring around it.
I also got my homemade export brace bolted in, going to pick up some stainless bolts and nuts for it next time I am in town, the top bolts are already stainless but I don't have nuts for them. I think stainless will be better in that location where the bolts are inside the wheel well to keep from them rusting up.
Also here is what those sloppy welds look like I was complaining about yesterday, not proud of them
Nobody commented on my clutch question post from a couple of days ago (positive or negative) so I went ahead and ordered a LUK clutch set, is supposed to be here tomorrow. I wanted to get the clutch so I could get the slave cylinder set up (bracket made).
I am still not sure I need a MonteCarlo bar, I guess it could not hurt but I no longer have shock towers to brace, do you guys think one would still have a beneficial effect? Of course if I add one I will build it anyway so it is no big expense.
See Ya,
Mike
I also got my homemade export brace bolted in, going to pick up some stainless bolts and nuts for it next time I am in town, the top bolts are already stainless but I don't have nuts for them. I think stainless will be better in that location where the bolts are inside the wheel well to keep from them rusting up.
Also here is what those sloppy welds look like I was complaining about yesterday, not proud of them
Nobody commented on my clutch question post from a couple of days ago (positive or negative) so I went ahead and ordered a LUK clutch set, is supposed to be here tomorrow. I wanted to get the clutch so I could get the slave cylinder set up (bracket made).
I am still not sure I need a MonteCarlo bar, I guess it could not hurt but I no longer have shock towers to brace, do you guys think one would still have a beneficial effect? Of course if I add one I will build it anyway so it is no big expense.
See Ya,
Mike