Lavron's '64 Build Thread

[SASSY]

Mike, turn the heat up on that welder.

[lavron]

Mike, turn the heat up on that welder.

It was all the way up, the problem was how far away from the surface I had to be, I think, my other welds were real pretty good (that would be the ones welding the gusset on, not necessarily the ones attaching the pipe ), I did not even need those it was welded on the other side but thought a little more weld wouldn't hurt, so I ended up making a goopy mess I will eventually get it cleaned up most likely.

I went into town today and bought some stainless bolts, of course I only bought enough to do the job and ended up cross threading one of the nuts (I think) so one of these bolts is just the head sitting there because I had to take the cutoff wheel and cut the bolt, I will get a new bolt and nut next time I am in town and try not to screw up again.



I like the style of these better than the hex bolts they are little more low profile, now to find the stainless fender washer that fell on the floor and hid itself when I cut the bolt in two.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

I forgot about my leak test on the pan, I don't think it is leaking, I set it as in the picture on the edge of the concrete floor in the shed and filled it, was going to town so I thought I would check for any seeping or wet spots on the floor when I got back, it rained while I was gone, really hard but I think it is fine going to leave it as is except add some sealer around the fitting.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

Went by the machinist today, nice guy but he did not want to do it because he doesn't have all the equipment, he is most definitely a Ford guy.

He had a 240 six (big block 6 like a 300) on the stand he was finishing up for a guy, said the guy has spent a mint on the motor, had custom made pistons, etc.

Gave me the number of a shop in Carthage MO that had done the machine work on the 240 so I am going to call him on Friday (he only works on Fri-Sat.) said it may take a while to get it back, I guess it will take even longer the longer I wait to take it .

Got my clutch and oil pump today from RockAuto (I bought the Sealed Power oil pump because it was on clearance for $35 regular are around $75) I should be able to get the clutch slave set-up now. May not get much more done this week I have to study for a test Saturday.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

As I said not a lot of time today but I did get out and bolt the clutch/pressure plate to the flywheel. it was not an out of the box fit for some reason, the flywheel is for a 2002 3.8L V6 and so is the clutch but I had the ream the pin holes out slightly.


I was trying to figure out what bolts I need to buy and was fitting every metric bolt I could find in the holes and nothing fit, pulled out the tap and die set and could not find the proper metric size, needed to be like a 9mm bolt and as far as I can tell there is no 9mm bolt in the metric system (????) then I tried a 3/8 SAE tap and it screwed right in, I had some 1" 3/8 bolts so I bolted it down with them.

Can anyone confirm what the bolts are, I can get some grade 8 - 3/4" or 1" bolts but did not know if the pressure plate bolts are something special, I cannot find a kit for a 2002 V6 from ARP or anyone but I cannot think they are different than SBF ones.

I thought it was odd they are SAE while the crank bolt holes are metric.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

I thought it was odd they are SAE while the crank bolt holes are metric.

Not odd because they are not SAE they are metric, don't know much about metric but a 10x1.5 and a 3/8" are very close, as I read the 3/8" will fit in the 10x1.5 hole but not the other way around, however the fit is not perfect so I am going to get metric bolts because I don't want to mess up anything

I think these would work but will look for the actual bolts as well.
https://www.amazon.com/M10-1-5x20-Metri ... B01GUEPAF4

I think the length is probably ok but that is where it would be nice to know what they are supposed to be.

EDIT: I think ARP-134-2203 will work, listed for an LS1 but the exact same bolt set for a Ford is $3 more.

See Ya,
Mike

[Jims65cyclone]

You be careful with those LS1 bolts! You don't want your ride gettin' infected with anything.
Jim

[lavron]

You be careful with those LS1 bolts! You don't want your ride gettin' infected with anything.
Jim

What I can't figure out is they are the bolts I need, why doesn't ARP just stick a different label on them for 2002 V6 Mustangs, of course then they would charge extra because they are rare and hard to find.

I did go out and confirm they were 10mmx1.5 by running my tap through one, they are 25mm bolts so I guess they will be the right length a 1" bolt does not reach all the way through the flywheel.

I may order a set of ARP flywheel bolts at the same time, I don't want my torque beast breaking the bolts

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

Prettied up the export brace on the firewall, not perfect but better only problem is it is flatter and smoother than the ends, but for under the hood I think I will leave it at least for now.



Chopped my air ride box down smaller while I was out there because I need to get it mounted along with the park brake lever because I would like to get the emergency brake hooked up and I want them to be basically side by side between the seats. So that means I need to go ahead and get my permanent seat mounts made so I can position everything properly.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

WOOT! Got a call back from the Carthage, MO machinist about doing my block, going to take it down there next week and get him going on it, he said it would be a month and a half to get it done, I am ok with that I have a lot of other things to do in the mean time

Going to have him bore it, deck it and balance it, also press my pistons on and do the cam bearings.

See Ya,
Mike

[Cobraguy]

Hey Mike, I went back to my 250 build thread on Fordsix.com to see what the final deck cut was. I took .060" off the deck and just skimmed the head.

[lavron]

Hey Mike, I went back to my 250 build thread on Fordsix.com to see what the final deck cut was. I took .060" off the deck and just skimmed the head.

Mine should be a much smaller cut (.010" + - ) with the different rods and pistons.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

As I prepare to loose my engine block and flywheel for a bit to the machinist I decided to get everything mocked together so I could measure my stroke and placement of my hydraulic clutch slave cylinder and build the mount for it.

I had to dig out my actual transmission because the 4-cyl T5 I have been using for mock up has too short of input shaft (this is when I realized I could have pulled the input shaft and bearing retainer out of the 4-cyl trans when I did the original conversion to a V8 style T5, that subsequently I undid and saved some money, possibly) I wanted to test everything together because I just got the clutch kit in and have never had everything bolted together at once and wanted to make sure it all worked correctly (It does)

To measure the stroke of the clutch I followed instructions that Red Hot Comet (I think) had posted on another website, I used some all thread and pulled the clutch arm forward until the throwout bearing was just contacting the pressure plate fingers, I made a mark on the case where this was (you can see it in the picture) I then tightened the nut until the clutch just released (I tested this by putting the trans in 4th gear and as soon as the tail shaft would turn I knew it was disengaged) I had to use the driveshaft to turn the transmission BTW (a yoke would have been much nicer) While not in the picture I made another mark at this point and then measured between them, it needs around 1" stroke so I should be fine.



I think I will make me a bracket and drill a hole partially through the back of the bell housing and have the slave cylinder push just inside the case where a hole already exists in the arm, I will have to enlarge the hole slightly in the fork and I am looking forward to that because it is hardened steel, I have a replacement push rod for the cylinder however and I may try it first because it has a pointed front that might sit in the hole without having it enlarged.

I am also considering cutting the end of the clutch fork off and making a plate to cover the hole.

I also made me a poster board temple for my plates I am going to make for the engine bay where I cut the shock towers out, it should work for both sides just needs bent the opposite way, I wish I had a metal brake it sure would make this job faster.


Ok I am going to jump on my soapbox for a minute about this T5 install I am doing, I am not complaining about guys giving advice, I am glad they do, but when I was looking for a bell housing I was told not to use the V6 one or the larger flywheel (not this site), I don't think I was ever told they would not work but just nobody does it that way and I never could get an explanation of why, I have to say that is not a good enough reason for me certainly if they won't fit or something similar I will listen (a little better) I may still regret going this route but have not found out why I am making a poor choice, the only thing I could see right now is possibly the flywheel is bigger and heavier but it is the flywheel for a 3.8L V6 and I am putting it on a 4.1L I6, I guess we will see.

See Ya,
Mike

[Cobraguy]

Mike, I could be wrong but I'm thinking the V6 is balanced differently which would not be good. I had a 351C once that I put a 240 six flywheel on it fit and bolted right up and ran good and no shake or rattle that I could tell. It only took about 3,000 miles to beat out the front main bearing and destroy the block. We live and learn.

[lavron]

Mike, I could be wrong but I'm thinking the V6 is balanced differently which would not be good.

2002 3.8L V6 is a zero balance flywheel just like the 250.

See Ya,
Mike