65 Comet Steering

[poboyjo65]

You will need to make 2 other pieces that fit inside the arm at top & bottom that fill the space. maybe rocket has pics. I'll look & see if I do.

[poboyjo65]

here is a pic of the instructions.


you will need a couple of the spacer bushings at top & bottom. & you might want to make a dust cup for each bearing.


The kit I bought had me leave the outer steel hull of the rubber bushing, I just sawed it off & drilled out the rubber.

[fair67]

I have access to a bridgeport mill and a lathe so I can make them if I need to.
Thank you very much

[Rocket989]

I paid something like $50 bucks for the Rare Parts kit, but like I said...it wasn't a drop-in!!

Here's an outfit that's got it for $35.00 bucks...

http://fcrcmachine.com/rare-parts-idler-arm-kit-20404/

If you go that route, I'd make a spacer to make sure the top bearing assembly can't push down. Also as mentioned, drill a hole about halfway up (through the spacer also if you use one!!) and put a zerk in. No way the upper bearing gets grease w/o it!

I've got some pics that got "Photobucketed" but still have 'em somewhere. I can also crawl under the heap and take a pic or two. The instructions are not great. The one thing I think is accurate...torque is only 50 INCH pounds, then put the cotter pin in!

[poboyjo65]

I have access to a bridgeport mill and a lathe so I can make them if I need to.
Thank you very much

You're set! one other thing to keep in mind is you'll need to mimic the stock bushing length, so you can have set preload. the kit comes with a part thick enough for the zerk fitting. even though I put a zerk in the arm itself I had to leave that lower spacer bushing with the zerk on because there wasn't enough threads to get tight without it.
here is a pic of mine vs the stock (rusty) one. the reason the arms are longer is it is the shelby quick steer set-1'' longer

[poboyjo65]

One other thing I should mention in case you didn't notice it, the spacer bushings that go in the arm also have a brim so it cant push in to the arm with about 1/4'' of it goes in the arm & on the other side it has a raised center that keeps the bearings centered. you can see it in the instructions pic above & in this pic;


this should fit inside your bearing's thrust washer but not tall enough to touch or drag the other side of the bearing's thrust washer.

also note the 4 notches in each spacer bushing for grease passages.

[Groover]

I think I've been looking for this. With my power steering and four degrees of caster, can I get rid of the rubber bushing and do this or will it wander all over the road without the return to center rubber bushing?

[Rocket989]

Mine still returns to center pretty good...you should be in even better shape with +4 caster!

[poboyjo65]

I think I've been looking for this. With my power steering and four degrees of caster, can I get rid of the rubber bushing and do this or will it wander all over the road without the return to center rubber bushing?

does it wander now? I'd think 4°+caster would bring it back to center pretty good no matter which idler bushing it has. but there's only one way to find out.

[fair67]

First I want to thank everyone for the help and great advice. This is what I ended up doing in the picture you can see the idler arm installed but just so you know I am going to make a dust cover for upper and lower bearings. I took the idler arm and milled off the exposed rubber parts that protrude from the bushing. I left the bushing in place but just milled the top and bottom rubber and metal insert flush to the bushing. I found that the thickness of my 2 thrust bearings and the 4 grade 8 washers were just about exactly the same as the rubber I milled off. I greased the crap out of everything the shaft and the bearings and all washers that contact the bearings. I then torqued the nut on and it bottomed out with the idler arm having a very tollerable smooth bearing rotation. Now I will admit that your kits are much better then what I have fabricated but on the other side I have less then 7.00 in my parts. However to be fair I did buy a new idler arm from Falcon parts that was about 48.00 and that is why I was nervous milling it..LOL..

[Groover]

So all of the kits and all of your photos show the two-hole idler arm mounting bracket (to the frame). in 64 we have the three hole bracket. Will the kit work with the three hole mounting bracket? One of the sites says 60-74 Comet, but not clear if they are saying you have to buy the other bracket.

What's the difference?

[Rocket989]

I think that’s just for the arm itself. IIRC the dimensions of the “cylinder” part of the arm are the same so the kits should work. I sold all the ‘64 parts of I’d look!!

[fair67]

My daughter got in the car and moved the steering wheel and said wow that sure feels different. It sure seems tighter. I have since attempted to adjust the toe and I think I got it pretty close. I now after a month have the front end parts all replaced to manual and the car off the jack stands and back on the ground. I thought I would adjust the gear box but to my surprise when you move the steering wheel the wheels now move pretty much right away before the steering wheel would go at least 1/2 a turn before moving the wheels. My next step is a test drive I am a little nervous because the first one a couple months ago was plain scary. I wanna thank you all for the help I will drive it as soon as i can and let you know how bad it was.
Thanks from Luke and daughter Lyndsey

[fair67]

Well I got the courage up to try and see what happens when I drive it now after replacing everything to manual. The car is alot better but still seems a bit out I wonder if it needs a good allignment because I replaced everything from the pitman arm to the wheels with manual parts. I also replaced strut rods and swaybar bushings and links. I adjusted the toe the best I could but do you guys think an alignment would help. I wonder if it would any tips appreciated.
Thanks it is much better for sure.

[A/FX]

Always have a car realigned after any change with the front end components. Did you check the condition of the tires and the air pressure? Every part of the front end has to be right before the car will drive/ handle like it should. Do not cut corners, find a reputable shop and have them do the adjustments.
Just my personal opinion.
Jim