COMET CENTRAL

Picked up a set of 390 truck headers tonight for $50. Now I got something to start with when I get to the point of making headers.

Not a lot of progress but what was done was good. When we put the 390 block and heads in the car it never really came down in front. The suspension was not sitting level, even with a couple of people standing on the front end the suspension was still not right. So we took the 8 yr old coil springs out and reinstalled the original 53 yr old springs. We rechecked everything since we had the suspension off. There were a couple of spots on the upper control arm nuts that were rubbing on the shock tower plates. If there were shims installed, they would have cleared. So we clearanced the shock tower plates a bit more and reinstalled. This allowed for correct movement.We want to take it to alignment shop next to make sure everything is going to work, but the bare block and heads were not enough weight to settle the front end. So we through a spare 460 and c6 that I had laying around in. That did the trick. Suspension leveled out and it should be able to be aligned now. Just for reference for anyone wanting to see a 460 in the engine bay. Here is a couple of pics showing how the 460 fills up the engine bay with Crites shocktower kit. There is room for the motor to come up a little because the trans is just laying on the trans crossmember and it could possibly go back just a bit.

Definitely “full”! More room than I would’ve thought though. I can’t remember, but Crites doesn’t say anything regarding 385 series BB’s & the kit do they?

Looks like headers could be made to fit but I wouldn’t volunteer for plug changes...

Rocket, I don't remember seeing anything on Crites website either about 460 stuff.

Good news this week. Took the car in for alignment, and they were able to align it. Now it's time to get the set up motor back in and and get the motor plates tacked in. 390 block should be going to machine shop this week also. Oh yeah, I also noticed that 1 slick is totally flat on the black car so I guess I'll try to figure that out first so I can go racing next weekend.

Wow Loman, you are making great progress. I don't know how you do it working on TWO cars. I have just the one Comet and can't get everything done that I would like. I'll use the excuse that I'm 72 years old. Keep up the progress! Andy

caseville cyclone wrote:Wow Loman, you are making great progress. I don't know how you do it working on TWO cars. I have just the one Comet and can't get everything done that I would like. I'll use the excuse that I'm 72 years old. Keep up the progress! Andy

I receive a lot of help and advice from my 72 year old crew chief.

. I'll use the excuse that I'm 72 years old. Keep up the progress! Andy[/quote]
good excuse as any,POP is startin to wear out being 70 as an excuse....

Shoe horned in there. Love the FE's!

Got the 460 out and reinstalled the 352 mock up block. Got it leveled and trimmed the rear motor plate to fit between the frame rails. I think I'm ready to weld brackets for the rear plate, but I'll wait and have the crew chief double check in case I'm overlooking anything.

A friend of mine has a laser pointer, so we started over with setting up the motor and trans. We set the laser up in the front crank journal. Then we gutted a FE trans and we make a plastic washer to fit in the tail shaft of the trans with a small hole. I think we have everything lined up now. Time to tack weld some brackets for the mid plate and make some temporary shims for trans crossmember.

Are you sure you want to install the engine inline with the center of the pinion? They should be at the same angle but on different planes, this makes the universal joints “work” when the shaft turns. If they run in a straight line the joints do not operate effectively. Normally the transmission “points down” and the pinion “ points up” both at the same angle.
Attached is a drawing that should explain.
We have been setting up chassis like this for years and have not experienced any vibration issues.
Jim

Jim,

The trans and rearend are set up like you say at 3 degrees each. They are only perfectly in line when the floor jack is taking the slack out of the rearend and simulating the rearend rotation once power is applied. My friend has set up a couple of cars using his laser without issues.

Great! I just wanted to mention it so that you would not have issues later.
I used a digital protractor to set up mine, my pinion does not change at all because my traction bars swing the same angle as my leaf springs, no bind just smooth movement.
Jim

No problem. If I'm screwing something up, I hope someone points it out to me. I had temporary brackets tack welded in last week but I had them wrong so that's why we started over. I'm not to proud where I won't admit my mistakes. If you don't make mistakes sometimes, you are not trying. Just ask my floorboard. I hacked it up and now I'm not sure that was necessary. So once the drivetrain is set, i will have to make new tunnel and partial floorboard.

I was able to get the midplate mounts welded in and reworked my old trans crossmember for the c6. I bolted the motor and trans back in and attempted to install the starter just to see what kind of clearance I will have. Notice I said attempted. It appears the motor plate was not made correctly. The center hole that the main body fits into was not correct. When you put the starter in place all 3 bolt holes are about 1/2 a hole off. I will use a die grinder and rotary file and make it fit. It got me thinking, are all FE starters the same? Is there a difference between automatics and sticks? Maybe my motor plate is correct for a stick trans but needs to be clearanced for an automatic. I'm going to call the company i bought the plate from tomorrow.