Have a question about replacing sheet metal

[will_64]

Does anyone know the gauge of original OEM 64/65 sheet metal? Where is the best place to purchase quality sheet metal? I kinda ran into a dilemma.I have the chance to purchase a 64' comet for 1k but the floors are rusted out so they'll need replacing and the area around the the trunk where the trunk seal gasket goes is also rusted and will need replaced other than that the rest of the sheet metal is good. So my question is should I take on such a project or wait for a better candidate? I've seen guys pay 7-8k for what they thought was a good car but when they were knee deep into their restoration they were replacing what they thought was good sheet metal. So should I tackle a project like this and know in the end that all my sheet metal is good or new or take a gamble on a more expensive car? Those of you who've paid to have your floor pans replaced what did it cost? This isn't something I'll be tackling myself. Any honest opinions would be appreciated.

[Groover]

Floor pans are not that expensive and you can do them yourself and nobody will really see your work. Couple of hundred bucks per side depending on where you get them, or you can just buy 18 ga steel and patch the ones you have.

Trunk lip would be a little more difficult to fabricate. Nobody makes it (if it's what I'm thinking, you mean the lip where the rubber seal sits). But not a lot of metal, just a little time.

If those are the only two areas (you have good rear quarters, etc) then I doubt you'll find a better deal. Post some photos and we can tell you more.

Welcome aboard.

[CALIFORNIA CALIENTE]

The worst part is the trunk seal area,if it is really bad,as in gone,you will need a donor car,65 trunk seal areas are all the same,not sure about 64s. ROY.

[will_64]

Well then I think I'd need a donor car then, so probably's not wort it. Thanks for the help I'll keep looking

[will_64]

I'm on the hunt for another car, but I am curious about the cost of professionally having sheet metal replaced. Just for future reference can those of you who've had sheet metal such as floor pans, trunk panels, or quarter panels, ect...replaced professionally let me know what it ran you in labor without the cost of your panels, just labor.

[Groover]

Seems to me a metal shop could make the 4 long straight parts of the trunk drip rails by bending some 18 ga into a U-channel. But the rounded corners would be a little harder or need to be hand made. But if the rest of the car is good and those two areas are truly the only places with rust, I'd be inclined to take it. The trunk work is all standing up which is nice. Do you have some photos we can see to help advise?

As to pricing somebody to do it. I looked a long time for somebody to do the metal work on my part, and was frustrated by the fact that nobody would give me a firm price. They all wanted to do it for time and material. So I finally did it myself, and now I know exactly WHY they didn't want to quote me a price. It's darn near impossible, because once they cut out your floor pans and find other areas that need to be patched, the labor goes up. I suppose very good body workers could carefully inspect and give a reasonably firm price, but that's not usually the kind of work they want (read not as profitable as fitting replacement body parts on wrecked cars and painting).

I'd expect to pay at least $1,000 plus the material to put in four floor pans not including the priming and painting afterward, just to cut out the old and put in the new. Purely ballpark based on my current state of mind.

[Lou's Comet]

I'm on the hunt for another car, but I am curious about the cost of professionally having sheet metal replaced. Just for future reference can those of you who've had sheet metal such as floor pans, trunk panels, or quarter panels, ect...replaced professionally let me know what it ran you in labor without the cost of your panels, just labor.

I have replaced a lot of floor pans and such. The price is very subjective, based on what the customer wants. They bring the car to me with interior removed and other parts removed that would be in my way the price goes down. If I got to removed the interior and other parts such as gas/brake lines and such price goes up.

Second what do they want quality wise? Going to be show car or driver? Weld in the floors/panels make a solid repair seam seal and undercoat is going to be cheaper than welding panels and finishing for paint. Undercoating bottom of car can hide the welds and such where painting they will be visible.

I just did floors and inner rockers on a 71 mustang vert, labor was $3000. The inner rockers were a $@^-#!, but just doing the floor panels would have cost about $2000, these were 2 complete sides, a left and a right. Welded the full perimeter solid. Removed all brackets such as seat mounts and such and rewelded to new floors, seam sealed everything and going to undercoat the underneath. Customer supplied panels I supplied labor and mat. And to be fair the concerts have some things that need attention that a sedan/hardtop don,t

Something like my comet where you only need to replace the four floor panels (front 2 and rear 2) with interior removed, welded in and sealed I would estimate around $1,000 this would be a solid repair with the bottom under coated to hide the welds. Now if you wanted more in the area of cosmetics like underneath finished to the point it was painted and looked factory(closer to show car) the price could easily double or more.

To be honest finding a classic car for 5-7k that has a solid body that needs no repairs/panels not going to be easy. From what I have seen most cars in that range have decent paint but when you look close at the foundation of the cars they are pretty shady, you would be surprised when you look at them close, seen many with pop rivets and very chunky undercoating trying to hide the rivets.

For $1,000 bucks really doesn't sound like a bad deal, better to buy a car you can see the problems then to buy one with the problems hidden with makeup.

Lou

[will_64]

Thanks guys for the help, that's what I was wanting to know. Lou I agree with you, I would almost rather buy a car that I can see all or at least most of the problems that need to be addressed then to buy one that looks good cosmetically until you start restoring it only too find that it needs a lot of metal work as well. At least I know in the end I'd have a car with good metal and know it was done right. Plus we've got to keep the body-men working, right!

[Bagger]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I’m wondering just what panels of the Falcon or the Fairlane are interchangeable for a 63 Comet. What are people doing for rusted trunk pans?

[lavron]

what panels of the Falcon or the Fairlane are interchangeable for a 63 Comet

Doors,Cowl and floorpan are the same as Falcon, that is about it.

See Ya,
Mike