Car Lift and Garage

[A/FX]

I can see where the single post lift will free up space it that design sure limits what is accessible under your car. The structure that supports the far end arms is sure to interfere with anything you might need to access in the middle of the vehicle.

Yeah, you're right. Fortunately, that main arm support is only about 10-1/2" wide, but that's a lot if it's directly under what you need to get to, which Murphy will probably have a big say in. The lifting pads will adjust to give me 6" of lift higher than the main support, which would probably be enough for routing exhaust, fuel/brake lines, etc. However, one of my objectives for the car is to install a T-5 which will require a lot of floor tunnel and cross member work, right above where the lift's main support will likely be. I may end up on jack stands for that project. But that's only one of many projects I have planned for the car, and most of the others won't require access to that 10-1/2" section of the undercarriage, or won't require the lift at all. The 2-post would be great, but I couldn't pull the car all the way into the garage and fully open both doors to work on the interior, repair floors, route wiring, etc. It's a trade-off.

Jim

Jim,
You may find that using a lift for some tasks is not as convenient as having the car on floor mounted stands. I have only had the Cyclone on my four post lift once and that was just to see how it fits on the lift. My Comet is low and I wanted to make sure the headers cleared the cross bar on the lift when driving up on the ramps. ( it just clears!)
I actually prefer to use the heavy duty wood platforms that I built, they are placed under each tire and are almost a foot tall. When the car is on these platforms I have found it it the correct height to work in the interior or under the car. It is the perfect height when I clean the underside of the car using a creeper. I use my big jack stands when I need the car raised to a higher level or when I need to remove the wheels and tires.
Jim

[popscomet]

all I can say is ,,make do with what you have ,,in the end you'll be very thankful for what you have,,,if you can pull that comet all the way inside and shut the overhead door,then open both car doors and work,,,to me your standing in tall cotton.....

[poboyjo65]

Oh both car doors open,I thought you were saying with both shop doors open. I gottcha now.

Wont that style door limit how high you could raise your lift? even with the door down the tracks are still there . & door opener would be in the way too. I guess with no opener it might go between the tracks but if you raised the car with the door up or opened the door with the car up ...

[A/FX]

Oh both car doors open,I thought you were saying with both shop doors open. I gottcha now.

Wont that style door limit how high you could raise your lift? even with the door down the tracks are still there . & door opener would be in the way too. I guess with no opener it might go between the tracks but if you raised the car with the door up or opened the door with the car up ...

I vaulted the ceiling in the area where my lift is because the ceiling height in the rest of the building is 9’. Here is how I did the tracks for the overhead door, they follow the pitch of the ceiling. Also the door operator is mounted on the side of the door, it is visible on the LH side of the door in the photo,
Jim

[Jims65cyclone]

You may find that using a lift for some tasks is not as convenient as having the car on floor mounted stands.... I actually prefer to use the heavy duty wood platforms that I built, they are placed under each tire and are almost a foot tall.

I was actually thinking of building some stacked 4x4 wooden platforms for the car wheels to rest on when I do the transmission work. Hopefully, most of the work I need to do with the wheels hanging free (disk brake conversion, front/rear suspension rebuild, wheel/tire work, etc.), as well as changing oil in all my cars, I can utilize the lift.

Wont that style door limit how high you could raise your lift? even with the door down the tracks are still there . & door opener would be in the way too. I guess with no opener it might go between the tracks but if you raised the car with the door up or opened the door with the car up ...

The door rails and opener shouldn't pose a problem since the car will be to the left of the right door rail and to the right of the centered door opener (remember, 16 ft wide door) when it's sitting on the lift. The extended door rails will allow the door to raise up and turn inward just below the ceiling, and my ceiling will be just shy of 12 ft.

Jim

[Jims65cyclone]

Also the door operator is mounted on the side of the door, it is visible on the LH side of the door in the photo...

Hey Jim, I like that side mounted door opener. What brand is it? Did you install it yourself or contract it?

Jim

[A/FX]

Also the door operator is mounted on the side of the door, it is visible on the LH side of the door in the photo...

Hey Jim, I like that side mounted door opener. What brand is it? Did you install it yourself or contract it?

Jim

The operator is a Liftmaster 8500. I purchased two of them, my shop has two 10wx8t doors. Yes, I installed them myself, actually it was quite easy, I roughed in the wires for the proximity sensors that mount on the lower door tracks behind the drywall so they would not be visible after installation. The operator also needs a receptacle within a couple of feet of where it is mounted, I installed one right next to the operator when I was roughing in the building.
https://www.liftmaster.com/garage-door- ... or-openers
Jim

[Jims65cyclone]

Great information. Thanks, Jim. I checked a few places and the lowest price I could find was at Lowes, surprisingly. Where did you get yours?

Jim

[A/FX]

Great information. Thanks, Jim. I checked a few places and the lowest price I could find was at Lowes, surprisingly. Where did you get yours?

Jim

I cannot remember exactly but I purchased both of them from an on line vendor. The pair were sold as a package deal. I have had them since I built the building 8 years ago.
Make sure they will operate correctly on your door because of the width.
Jim

[popscomet]

When we remove or install a transmission,,we do it on a lift by useing the cherry picker,,,I welded a 2in pipe nipple on top of the arm,,hook is on bottom,nipple is on top,,,I went to HF and bought one of those transmission jack that uses a floor jack,,it has a large round stub that will just fit into the nipple..we let the picker all the way down,,we just have to pick the trans up high enuff to sit it on the flat part and throw the chains over and tighten up the slack....roll it under car or truck and pump handle to desired height,,we do complete rear end houseings the same way.If you have a lift,then why would you want to work flat of your back off a creeper?? we have been doing this for yrs and yrs,,,as soon as I got a lift...2post or 4post...without a lift the jack stands and wooden blocks are great,,been there done that,,but once you get a lift,,you owe it to your back and knees to use it. my thing is work smarter not harder,,was not my intent to upset anyone with the way I worded this....cause in the end POP don't care what others do,,,good luck pop

[Jims65cyclone]

No offense taken, Pop. For a two or four post lift, your method sounds like a good one. The reason I was talking about using jack blocks to do the trans work is because the single post lift has a support bar that extends across the width of the car right about where the trans is located, so it would be in the way trying to remove or install the trans. I'd prefer not to lay on my back, either, but with a helper to work a floor jack with the trans mounted on it, I should be able to wrestle it in and out without too much trouble.

Jim

[popscomet]

we could have paid extra when son bought this bend-pac 4 post lift and the whl attachments would have came with it,,then it can be rolled around,,,,come to find out son's boss has the same lift with whls,,so he brought one to DWAYNE, he took pic's and drew a blue print of it,,,they are simple to make even the locking system,,if we ever need whls on it.

[poboyjo65]

The reason I was talking about using jack blocks to do the trans work is because the single post lift has a support bar that extends across the width of the car right about where the trans is located, so it would be in the way trying to remove or install the trans.

Jim

it might prove to be in the way but it may be handy to have that where it is, ready to catch the trans. I'd put it on the lift & do all the work & if possible to set trans on that beam & let the lift down with stands in place to catch the car then come on down to ground with trans on lift beam.

[Jims65cyclone]

I'd put it on the lift & do all the work & if possible to set trans on that beam & let the lift down with stands in place to catch the car then come on down to ground with trans on lift beam.

That's a great idea! The only catch would be if the clearance between the top of the beam and the bottom of the car was too close with the slope of the trans hump to allow me to move the trans enough to slide it off and back on. It'll sure be worth a try, though.

Jim

[poboyjo65]

The only catch would be if the clearance between the top of the beam and the bottom of the car was too close with the slope of the trans hump to allow me to move the trans enough to slide it off and back on. It'll sure be worth a try, though.

Jim

it'd be worth checking to see. Maybe if your lift pads were taller,or make a different set that are taller,& maybe have a bolt on trans jack mounted on the beam.

I like the portable one on that link for 500 more bucks.

As for that garage door opener that afxjim posted a link to, I noticed there was one with wifi & it is rated for heavier doors in the specs. The one I just bought earlier this year has wifi & it sure is nice to be able to open or close the door from anywhere & I can tell when the door was last opened or if it is open or closed on my phone. I am up town now bubba!