COMET CENTRAL

All,

Does the 1966 mercury comet require shims to have the front end alignment? I am calling alignment shops and most will not align my car "it too old" or other shops want 400 to 500 dollars to do the alignment. I do live in the bay area but this seems kind of excessive.

Brian

Look for a place that services/ restores Mustangs, your Comet’s front suspension is basically the same as any ‘64- ‘73 Mustang.
Jim

I believe the camber can be set with eccentrics on the LCAs like on a Fairlane, but I think the caster has to be set with shims. That's a lot easier than 65 and earlier Comets, Falcons and Mustangs that require shims for both caster and camber.

Jim

what the two Jim’s said!

I gave up on local alignment shops. I’m not lucky enough to have one that’s trustworthy and close by.
I do my own now with affordable tools and help here.

Joe

I have looked and will most likely go with buying my own tools. The cost here is very high and it will be fun to learn how to do it. what shims are needed? Is there a link that shows where the shims go I can reference?

Thanks

brian

Actually, you're in luck. You need no shims on a 66. Caster is adjusted with the strut rods and camber with the eccentrics on the LCAs. Just remember, the order of adjustment is caster first, camber second and toe-in last.



Jim

Well I’ll be good to know. Had I just gotten my shop manual out and looked……..

Hello so took our 66 to a shop and they really screwed up the alignment does anyone have the shop manual that shows the procedure to do it yourself thanks.

The procedure is not difficult, but you need some tools to do the job. Here's a DIY alignment kit that Joe used on his Falcon. Others are available online.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=13000&p=108396&hil ... nt#p108396

Since yours is a 66 there are no shims. It's all wrench adjustments. You set the caster first using the adjusting screws on the strut rods. Pulling the rod toward the front of the car increases positive caster; pushing the rod toward the rear increases negative caster. Then set the camber using the eccentrics on the lower control arm. Turning the adjusting bolt so that it pushes the LCA away from the center of the car increases negative camber; pulling the LCA toward the center of the car increases positive camber. The last adjustment is toe-in using the tie rod sleeves. You want to have the steering wheel positioned straight, then adjust the drivers wheel to straight ahead first. With that set, adjust the passengers side wheel to get the specified toe-in. There are various methods of setting the toe-in without special gauges. Best to check them out on Youtube, etc. to find one you're comfortable with. Power Band did his using a cheap laser device, but you can also use a string.
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=16520&p=102405&hil ... in#p102405
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0sguZ-gRF9I

Jim

I’ll be putting new upper and lower control arms on, along with roller perches, Bilstein’s, and 1” sway bar (hoping to do the Shelby drop as well). Think I’m going to try the jack stand and string technique to get it close, then take it to the alignment shop, see what they have to say.

Good info Jim, thanks. All I need to do now is get myself back at it, been way too hot for me to work on anything in the shop.

might take a look at an earlier alignment discussion:

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=16520&p=102405&hil ... le#p102405

have fun

Yeah I’ve read it and will probably read it another half dozen times before I actually do it. Will be watching several YouTube videos as well. Would love to find a decent used setup for doing self alignments.

Caveman49 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 29, 2022 3:50 pm

Yeah I’ve read it and will probably read it another half dozen times before I actually do it. Will be watching several YouTube videos as well. Would love to find a decent used setup for doing self alignments.

here's a nice price on turntables;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174516607061?s ... 1438.l2649

& you can get gauges for about the same amount .
so wouldn't take many alignments to pay for all of it.