Drag racing front suspension.

Unusual and Unique Performance Mods
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Boss/Cyclone
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Posts: 2739
Joined: Thu Oct 19, 2006 9:55 pm
Location: South Central Michigan (Near Michigan International Speedway)

Re: Drag racing front suspension.

Post by Boss/Cyclone »

CALIFORNIA CALIENTE wrote:Larry;I use stock a-arms,the uppers are my original 1965.What I did was put the roller spring perches on,use a shock with an"eye"on the bottom and have two tabs welded to the spring perch for a thru bolt for the shock,I did the "Shelby Drop"[lowered the upper a-arms 1"].I have the strut rods shortened by 1/2",by redrilling the a-arm mounting holes,which gives it more caster.I use limiting straps to limit the amount of droop and I use stock V-8 replacement front springs.My Comets front tires are almost verticle while in the air with no toe-in or other weird stuff going on.We did the same thing to a friends 9 second 64 Falcon.I got the shock idea off of the FordFE.com website years ago.It seems the Stock&Super Stock guys were snapping shocks off at the lower attachment point and by using a shock that can pivot with the a-arm movement also frees up the front end.I know a few guys that run the Total Control stuff but I don't know anything about Open Tracker. ROY.
I am starting work on this now, Roy I am not sure where to redrill for the strut rod mounting. How far over and which direction. My goal is to leave the line looking just like your Comet. I am doing the Shelby drop and roller perches with stock a-arms. Also, your limiting straps are hung from where? Sorry to keep asking, I just want to be sure before I start drilling and cutting.
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
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Larry

CALIFORNIA CALIENTE
Posts: 5933
Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 12:57 am
Location: Camarillo,California

Re: Drag racing front suspension.

Post by CALIFORNIA CALIENTE »

No problem,ask away!!! What I did on the strut rod was just redrill the a-arm attachment holes in the flat of the strut rod,basically center the new hole between the original holes and drill the forward one with the proper spacing.My limiting straps are actually 1/8" wire cable,I drilled two holes in the frame lip just forward of the upper a-arm,looped it through the holes then fed one end through the old forward hole in the strut rod.I use two cable clamps[opposing open ends]to connect the cable,leaving the cable long enough to adjust the droop.I check the cable and frame holes occasionally for fraying or tearing,so far in 12 seasons I've had no issues.I made my first adjustment so the droop stopped just before the tierod end bottomed out,I've since lessened the droop. ROY.
Real Racecars have 3 pedals
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