) so figured if there's anything I can do to get stuff closer, I'll take a whack at it.To start, most of what I see is 1/2-5/8 of an inch of shims on the front and very few to none on rear (which SORT of makes sense).
Rough Alignment
Rough Alignment
I poked around a bit but wondering if anyone has a relatively quick method for getting an alignment close enough to drive to alignment shop? Right now there's a laughable amount of negative camber (could be worse...could be positive). I don't think it's bad enough to cause any binding, but I need to pull the nuts off the UCA's anyway (don't ask!! ) so figured if there's anything I can do to get stuff closer, I'll take a whack at it.
To start, most of what I see is 1/2-5/8 of an inch of shims on the front and very few to none on rear (which SORT of makes sense).
) so figured if there's anything I can do to get stuff closer, I'll take a whack at it.To start, most of what I see is 1/2-5/8 of an inch of shims on the front and very few to none on rear (which SORT of makes sense).
'cause Johno says you gotta have a sig pic! 
Re: Rough Alignment
I would not worry about caster & camber,the most important thing is toe in. you can make a mark on each tire in the center of the tread, get a buddy to help hold the tape, measure with the marks in front of the axle then roll the car so they are in the back or close as you can get & remeasure. get it within a 1/4 at least, 1/8 is better ,,closer in front. trick to toe in is having the steering box centered when the tires are straight. of course that wont matter just to get to the shop. be sure it is a ride height before measuring.
much more than 1/4 toe in or out can cause rapid tire wear. the caster & camber wont cause wear in a short distance by itself, but toed in/out too far will ,& if camber is out it will wear the edges really bad & quick!
much more than 1/4 toe in or out can cause rapid tire wear. the caster & camber wont cause wear in a short distance by itself, but toed in/out too far will ,& if camber is out it will wear the edges really bad & quick!
Johno
Re: Rough Alignment
Why are you removing the nuts off the UCAs?! 
1965 Caliente HT- 289/4 speed
1964 Falcon HT- track car- 302/4 speed
1964 Falcon HT- track car- 302/4 speed
Re: Rough Alignment
Joe - One at a time, but during hell week, one of the metal lock nuts wasn't snug (ergo locking) and all I had were Nylock nuts. That and the originals had a flat washer built in. So, I'm going to replace all 4 with hardened washers/ metal lock nuts. 2 are old and 2 not right...I haven't seen even a good Nylok nut take more than about three tighten cycles before being largely useless (like during an alignment, etc.).
Told ya not to ask!!
Probably me being anal...Nylok's have their place, just not on most front end parts IMO.
Told ya not to ask!!
Probably me being anal...Nylok's have their place, just not on most front end parts IMO.
'cause Johno says you gotta have a sig pic!
Re: Rough Alignment
Your right I shouldn't have asked!
NPD sells the original type self locking metal nuts with the wide washer base.
Joe
NPD sells the original type self locking metal nuts with the wide washer base.
Joe
1965 Caliente HT- 289/4 speed
1964 Falcon HT- track car- 302/4 speed
1964 Falcon HT- track car- 302/4 speed
