steering box

[rhtopdown]

looking for a 64 comet steering box, if I find one what is a fair price to give? Thanks

[A/FX]

Where are you located? I installed a Cougar Box in my ‘64 so I have a box but the shaft has been cut off. (I have the shaft.)
I’m in S.E. Wisconsin.
Jim

[rhtopdown]

what year cougar steering box did you use and was it easy to change

[A/FX]

I used a ‘68 Cougar Box with a ‘67 pitman arm (C7Z-A3590C)
The box was a bolt in but I had to use the early pitman arm to fit the ‘65 Comet center link. ( My ‘64 has ‘65 steering to clear the big tube headers) The rag coupling I had was bad so I tried to source a replacement but they were $150 for a used one that needed new rubber. I am using a ‘67 Cougar tilt column, in order to make it fit the my Comet correctly it needed to be shortened. I shortened the column and converted the steering shaft to a Borgson spline then used a Borgson universal joint instead of the rag coupling. Everything looks good and works perfectly, modifying the column takes some machining and some precise measurements, I have done a few in the past so it was no problem.
Attached are some pictures of the set up in mock up stage, nothing is permanent so the fasteners are temporary and nothing is painted.

[SASSY]

Cool strut setup!
Would you be interested in sharing what you used there?
Fred

[A/FX]

Cool strut setup!
Would you be interested in sharing what you used there?
Fred

I used struts and spindles from Gateway Performance Suspension, the brakes are Baer four piston. I wanted to eliminate the upper control arm so that I could pie cut the shock towers making them narrow and allow more room around the engine. The struts mount to the top of the shock tower just like the coil spring did, the bottom mounts directly to the new spindle eliminating the stock upper control arm.
(Boss 302/Cleveland heads) I did not want a Mustang two because it moves the weight of the car to the frame rails instead of the shock towers. (Uni-body cars were designed to carry the weight up high at the top of the shock tower) I also wanted to use stock lower control arms and the ‘65 style steering, my engine set up uses headers that will only work with the ‘65 steering. I now have more room around the engine plus the ride height is adjustable, the suspension moves freely and the car sits low.
Jim

[SASSY]

I agree on the pickup point for the weight of the car and I like the simplicity of the strut (the less moving pieces the better).
I also like a rack&pinion for the same reason but the 65 steering is hard to beat.
I really like the combo you have come up with, a pic thread of your build would probably be enlighting.
Fred

[A/FX]

a pic thread of your build would probably be enlighting.
Fred

Fred,
I have attached a few pictures of my ‘64 Cyclone. I had the body chemically stripped so it is in bare metal. ( it will be e-coated when I am finished with all the fabrication) Everything is in mock up stage so nothing is “pretty” yet. There are quite a few details that are not visible in the pictures, but I can tell you that every mechanical component on the car has been modified to some extent. I fabricated the rear end, stainless exhaust, strut rods, subframe connectors, rear suspension mounts, trac bars, etc. The body itself will be completely stock and retain all the Cyclone trim, the interior will be minimal, two buckets, and the roll bar. Colors have not been decided on and probably will not be until we “load the gun”.
The engine is a ‘70 Boss block (4 bolt mains) aluminum heads, roller cam, roller rockers, forged pistons, and a Shelby dual quad intake with two 390cfm Holley’s. The trans is a BW-T10, there is a 3:50 traction loc inside that Winter’s aluminum center section. The radiator, steering colum and steering box are from a big block Cougar. I am using Baer brakes at all four corners, the wheels are American Rebel. (Halibrand style)

Jim

[SASSY]

well we have dragged this thread off topic "PRETTY" is in the eye of the beholder and from where I'm sitting it's already MORE than PRETTY!!!

I'm sure most of us would enjoy and probably learn stuff from you if you could start your own build thread.
Thanks for sharing your "PRETTY PLEASURE'
Fred

[A/FX]

well we have dragged this thread off topic
Fred

Yea, sorry about that. I wanted to post the reply in another topic but I did not know how do do it without loosing you in the process.
Maybe I will start a build thread about my adventures.
Thanks for the kind words.
Jim

[popscomet]

this is some nice stuff..you've done good work,,,I bought my 1st holly 390 yrs ago and put it on my stock 302 '77 bronco,,til I parked it awhile back( just got in the habit of driving my 4whl truck) that was as sweet ,as could be,,always started great and I had backed the choke off when I put it on there,and it having a AT trans made no difference,crank it drop it in gear and go,,,I sure like the part you built a 64,,,they are so eye appealing over anything else,,,of course this JMO good luck !! thanks POP

[Rocket989]

RH - 5-turn ‘64-‘65 Comet/Falcon boxes are relatively easy to find find. The 63.5-64 V8 boxes used a 1-1/8 sector shaft, 65 V8 used 1-inch. All 6-cyl were 1-inch sector. If you’re replacing a 1-inch sector gives you more available options (convert to ‘65 steering, quick steer parts, etc.).

4-turn boxes are about unobtanium. Honestly, if you want the quicker ratio find a 65-early 67 4-turn ‘Stang box and any decent machinist should be able to cut and respline & rethread the end. Shucks, while you’re at it, take another inch or so off and trim the column; well worth it IMO!

Be cautious buying rebuilt boxes. I would buy one from Chockostang (Dan) but not many other folks. Parts to rebuild are readily available if you want to do yourself. Do not send the box to Randy at Stangerssite.com - ordering parts from him is probably ok.

R&R is easy enough. Car’s gotta be up high enough, remove ds exhaust manifold & unbolt the e-bracket bracket from bottom of dash (gonna need to send the input shaft over). You’ll see how it’ll turn & slide out. The input shaft will be pushed against the dash bottom pretty snug. Put back in same way. You’ll see the box casting is shaped to allow it to kinda “roll” into place around the frame rail/tower...pretty neat.

Oh and Jim’s Comet IS awesome, I’ve seen it in person!!