M2 Control Arm Mod Question

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lavron
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M2 Control Arm Mod Question

Post by lavron »

I am attaching a short vid with my thoughts on switching out or modding my upper control arms on my Mustang 2 front.

Front Control Arm Question

If you have suggestions or the like let me know.

See Ya,
Mike
Mike's build thread
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13058
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Boss/Cyclone
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Re: M2 Control Arm Mod Question

Post by Boss/Cyclone »

Your angle bracket idea sounds like a similar set up to whats on my 57 ford from the factory. That being said, if it were me I'd try the shorter a arms. I always try the easier way first even if it cost my sometimes.
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
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Jims65cyclone
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Re: M2 Control Arm Mod Question

Post by Jims65cyclone »

Have you used your gauge and actually gotten a camber reading? What was it?

Your angle iron solution seems plausible to me, but I don't understand the need to use shims. If you mount the angle iron with the vertical part toward the engine, mount the CA shaft on the engine side of the angle with new grade 8 bolts, and use the original bolts through holes in the flat side of the angle, you shouldn't need to use any shims. Just adjust the caster/camber as usual for a M2 front end.

I don't understand why you don't have enough adjustment room. Could your installation have been shifted too far toward the driver's side when you welded it in? And why are 5/8" shorter UCA's available? Are they for a different model, or are they to gain additional negative camber for racing purposes? :?

Jim
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A/FX
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Re: M2 Control Arm Mod Question

Post by A/FX »

One of the design flaws of the Mustang II front suspension was the slotted adjustment for the upper control arms, stock Mustangs were known for the upper arms moving in the slot over time.
Some retrofit kits still use this type of adjustment and some others have converted to the shim style adjustment. You may be able to enlarge the slots to the inside in order to gain more adjustment, or you could install an upright and use shims. If you decide to install the upright make sure it is made from substantial material and install gussets to prevent flex.

A number of years ago I built a ‘33 Ford Victoria, it had a front suspension based on a Must. II. I purchased the chassis from Heit’s with the front crossmember installed, I decided to change it to a shim style adjustment so I fabricated a 1/2” upright to accept the upper control arms. (With gussets) I set up the car at ride height with the suspension set to spec, with two shims installed, that is how I determined where the upright would be placed. Using the two shims basically set it up in the middle point of adjustment.
You may have to install your uprights in different positions side to side to compensate for the difference you have between the LH and RH sides on your Comet.
Jim
‘64 Cyclone/ Boss 302,quads,4spd, Winters 9”

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SASSY
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Re: M2 Control Arm Mod Question

Post by SASSY »

I think your over thinking it,,, take that 100$ and get a die grinder, carbide bit and lengthen the holes,, imo
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I'd rather do it myself if it's done right or not,,,isn't that what hotrodding is all about

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lavron
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Re: M2 Control Arm Mod Question

Post by lavron »

SASSY wrote:
Sun Dec 27, 2020 6:32 pm
I think your over thinking it,,, take that 100$ and get a die grinder, carbide bit and lengthen the holes,, imo
I already have a die grinder and some carbide bits so I guess I am $200 to the positive now I can spend on something else :roll:
Jims65cyclone wrote:
Sun Dec 27, 2020 6:22 pm
I don't understand why you don't have enough adjustment room. Could your installation have been shifted too far toward the driver's side when you welded it in? And why are 5/8" shorter UCA's available? Are they for a different model, or are they to gain additional negative camber for racing purposes?
Anything is possible as far as welding but they should be pretty close to right, I am pretty particular when it comes to building stuff like this and it usually gets checked and re-checked, tacked in, and checked again X2 or 3, the 5/8" shorter arms are for guys that want to really drop the front for more fender clearance I believe.
Jims65cyclone wrote:
Sun Dec 27, 2020 6:22 pm
Have you used your gauge and actually gotten a camber reading? What was it?
I have and I can't remember (it was during the summer I tried to check it), it was near zero I think and I would have to look up and see what it is supposed to be, those numbers left my brain already :roll: just would like it to have more room for adjustment and I will take in and have it done on a machine and want them to have enough room for adjustment.

See Ya,
Mike
Mike's build thread
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13058
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lavron
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Re: M2 Control Arm Mod Question

Post by lavron »

I put in an order for some new die grinder bits and will try and elongate my mount holes, it looks like there is plenty of material there to cut at least 1/2" more slot (5/8" would more than compensate for anything I could gain from the shorter arms).

I ordered a cheap set of plates to set toe and will attempt to align it myself again after the modification so I may be looking for help again on doing my own alignment (I will read back through the previous posts on alignment before I ask anything) when I tried before I could not figure out how to adjust caster/camber with the weight of the car on there (I know I am ignorant on this) because I found it impossible to loosen the T-bolts without them wanting to slide all the way in when loose, would it be possible to set jack stands under the frame at ride-height and air the bags down so there was no pressure on the suspension or does that not give an accurate measure?

I have the Speedway economy caster camber gauge that attaches to the spindle with a magnet and the set of aluminum plates that sit against the front tires and have slots on each end for tape measures (included) on the way to set toe.

Going to figure out the best way to get the rear alignment dialed in, I can't adjust toe on it but I think I should be able to use either the front leaf spring mounts to set the distance the axle sets back on both sides (I have done this already just not sure how accurate I was with my measure and this is hoping that Ford had them mounted evenly side to side) and I assume I can use the upper bar adjustments to center the rear better if I need to without changing the pinion angle in the process, I assume if I get it tracking straight if there is a tiny offset to one side or the other it wouldn't make any difference except with tire sidewall clearance in the wheel wells? (I made a lot of assumptions there)

If I can I will try and take pictures and/or a video of the process.

See Ya,
Mike
Mike's build thread
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13058
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A/FX
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Re: M2 Control Arm Mod Question

Post by A/FX »

lavron wrote:
Fri Jan 01, 2021 12:08 pm
I put in an order for some new die grinder bits and will try and elongate my mount holes, it looks like there is plenty of material there to cut at least 1/2" more slot (5/8" would more than compensate for anything I could gain from the shorter arms).

I ordered a cheap set of plates to set toe and will attempt to align it myself again after the modification so I may be looking for help again on doing my own alignment (I will read back through the previous posts on alignment before I ask anything) when I tried before I could not figure out how to adjust caster/camber with the weight of the car on there (I know I am ignorant on this) because I found it impossible to loosen the T-bolts without them wanting to slide all the way in when loose, would it be possible to set jack stands under the frame at ride-height and air the bags down so there was no pressure on the suspension or does that not give an accurate measure?

I have the Speedway economy caster camber gauge that attaches to the spindle with a magnet and the set of aluminum plates that sit against the front tires and have slots on each end for tape measures (included) on the way to set toe.

Going to figure out the best way to get the rear alignment dialed in, I can't adjust toe on it but I think I should be able to use either the front leaf spring mounts to set the distance the axle sets back on both sides (I have done this already just not sure how accurate I was with my measure and this is hoping that Ford had them mounted evenly side to side) and I assume I can use the upper bar adjustments to center the rear better if I need to without changing the pinion angle in the process, I assume if I get it tracking straight if there is a tiny offset to one side or the other it wouldn't make any difference except with tire sidewall clearance in the wheel wells? (I made a lot of assumptions there)

If I can I will try and take pictures and/or a video of the process.

See Ya,
Mike
Mike,
They made a tool to help hold the Upper control arm in place when the bolts are loose. The “Y” part goes on the arm and you use the bolt on the tool to locate the arm in the position needed. You could use the photos and make your own that would work in the same fashion.
Jim
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-on-S8702- ... SwUaVdEisA
‘64 Cyclone/ Boss 302,quads,4spd, Winters 9”

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lavron
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Re: M2 Control Arm Mod Question

Post by lavron »

Thanks for that Jim, I will have to Google around and see how those are used, I think I could make something similar for a one time, or so, use that would be acceptable.

See Ya,
Mike
Mike's build thread
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13058
Image

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