Idler arm and Idler arm bracket replace

[Jims65cyclone]

What you should probably do is get the springs re-arced or just replace them. Do away with the extended shackles. You get a lot of body sway with them, and you shouldn't need them with properly arced springs. Are you planning to replace the rear tires/wheels? If so, I'd pick a combination of tires/wheels with proper backspacing that would allow you to do away with the air shocks. If you've got a set of tires/wheels that you plan to keep, but need a little more fender clearance, the cheap way out is to keep the air shocks. Otherwise, I'd put a good set of new regular shocks on it. Based on the vintage of the shackles and slapper bars you'd probably need to replace the air shocks if you decide to keep them, anyway.

Jim

[Joe Travers]

I pulled the air shocks and slapper bars off my '63, installed KYB Excel-G shocks. Also replaced wrong shackles w/ proper 2" shackles.

Watch out on the shackle bushings for '63 Comet. The frame bushings are smaller than spring bushings. I bought 2" shackle kit from Falcon Parts, installed bushings in the leaf spring, had to order frame bushings separately. Frame bushing is Moog K8785.

May be best to sort that out here- https://www.generalspringkc.com/1960-19 ... ng-5-leaf/

Joe

[A/FX]

I’m sure some of you will not agree with my opinion on air shocks but I feel it is worth mentioning. Back in the “old days” I also used air shocks and even tried longer shackles to gain tire clearance. After the air shocks pulled the spot welds out of the upper rear crossmember of my ‘71 Comet GT I swore off air shocks for life. The problem is that the leaf spring rear suspension is designed to hold the weight of the car at both ends of the spring, if you ad an air shock it try’s to suspend the car from the middle of the spring which the car was not designed to work that way. If the air shock is only inflated enough to not raise the car but only enough to assist the leaf spring I would say sure run them.
I would agree with either re arching or replacing the springs if your car sags in the rear. Another option would be to ad a leaf to the existing stack.
As I mentioned this is my opinion and my experience, your opinion may vary.
Jim

[JCBond]

Thanks Joe!!

[Joe Travers]

I would agree with either re arching or replacing the springs if your car sags in the rear. Another option would be to ad a leaf to the existing stack.
As I mentioned this is my opinion and my experience, your opinion may vary.

I agree. Six-pack HD spring is available to replace stock 5-pack. My plan, eventually.

https://www.generalspringkc.com/1960-19 ... 28-6-leaf/

Joe

[Joe Travers]

I’m sure some of you will not agree with my opinion on air shocks but I feel it is worth mentioning. Back in the “old days” I also used air shocks and even tried longer shackles to gain tire clearance. After the air shocks pulled the spot welds out of the upper rear crossmember of my ‘71 Comet GT I swore off air shocks for life.

I ran air shocks and slappers on my '68 Mustang in the '70s w/ L-60s to street race. Mustang has flared rear quarters, so there was some tire clearance gain but rode like a log wagon. No gain w/ Comet skirted quarters unless you air them up to clear the sidewalls. Headlights wouldn't get you around at night.

Joe

[A/FX]

I would agree with either re arching or replacing the springs if your car sags in the rear. Another option would be to ad a leaf to the existing stack.
As I mentioned this is my opinion and my experience, your opinion may vary.

I agree. Six-pack HD spring is available to replace stock 5-pack. My plan, eventually.

https://www.generalspringkc.com/1960-19 ... 28-6-leaf/

Joe

Joe,
The pricing for those springs seems reasonable, even after you ad in the bushings and shipping they are a good buy. It does not mention if the springs have synthetic buttons at the ends and if the leave ends are tapered, the buttons really help with the leaves sliding on each other which helps give a smoother ride.
I paid more for my springs but they were custom built to my specifications so they cost more.
Jim

[Joe Travers]

IIRC, the '64-'65 Cyclones came w/ six-pack wagon springs?

The '63 1/2 cars have measly 2" 5-pack springs. Really need 6-pack w/ engine upgrade. Little 260 didn't torque very hard.

Joe

[JCBond]

I think this is the right shackle. One of the bushings is smaller than the other.

Screen Shot 2022-03-15 at 12.13.53 PM.jpg (95.6 KiB) Viewed 1759 times

[Joe Travers]

I think this is the right shackle. One of the bushings is smaller than the other.

Appears to be correct. Curious as to where you found that rascal. All I could find at the time was for Falcon.
The 2" shackle had been discontinued for some time, just re-issued for Falcon w/ same size bushings on both ends.

Joe

[JCBond]

I think this is the right shackle. One of the bushings is smaller than the other.

Appears to be correct. Curious as to where you found that rascal. All I could find at the time was for Falcon.
The 2" shackle had been discontinued for some time, just re-issued for Falcon w/ same size bushings on both ends.

Joe

https://fcrcmachine.com/rare-parts-shac ... bly-35565/

General Spring gave me the part number but they were sold out with no indication when they were getting new ones.

[Joe Travers]

General Spring gave me the part number but they were sold out with no indication when they were getting new ones.

Do they have the Falcon kit listed at the bottom of the spring page?
They are the same width, just have to swap out the bushings for the frame. They are cheap.
If they don't have it, try here- https://www.falconparts.com/ford-falcon ... 18p325.htm

Joe

[JCBond]

Thanks Joe that saved a bunch of money!! I got everything ordered. The leaf springs, the shackles, and bushings.

[JCBond]

Does it matter how tight that nut is?

OEM torque spec is 45-60 ft./lbs.

Joe

Hi Joe. Where did you get the OEM torque specs for things like the Idler arm?