Temporary Primer

[lavron]

I am working on my rear quarters and after I get the patches welded in it will be a while before I can do filler work and finish it, so whatever goes on will come back off.

I guess the question is should I just use the rattle can rust converter/primer like I have on the rest of the car or use some rattle can self etching primer?

I don't want something I have to grind back off later but I don't want it to build any surface rust up like my stuff tends to do out in that open shed, so far the rust reformer is holding up well on the rest of the car.

See Ya,
Mike

[Lou's Comet]

I am working on my rear quarters and after I get the patches welded in it will be a while before I can do filler work and finish it, so whatever goes on will come back off.

I guess the question is should I just use the rattle can rust converter/primer like I have on the rest of the car or use some rattle can self etching primer?

I don't want something I have to grind back off later but I don't want it to build any surface rust up like my stuff tends to do out in that open shed, so far the rust reformer is holding up well on the rest of the car.

See Ya,
Mike

If your going with rattle cans and the rust reformer is holding up then I would stick with that.

Don't know what the cans are costing you but IMO it would be cheaper/better/quicker to do epoxy primer.

If you did your metal work got rid of your rust and metal sanded you could spray epoxy primer over it, after a few days it will lock and whenever you decide to do the filler you can just scuff the epoxy, apply another coat of epoxy and do your filler work on top of the epoxy. This would save you the cost of rattle cans and the time to sand it back off.

Lou

[lavron]

I think the rattle can appeal is the convenience Just grab a can and do a quick spray and not have to mix it and clean up afterwards.

However I might look into getting some epoxy because I know it has so many benefits over other things (like primer even) I watched the test where they bent the metal that had been epoxied and the coating did not crack, I just wasn't sure about adding bondo over the top but if I can do that it might be the best choice at least all my repairs would be sealed.

The only place I am worried right now about is the lower lip where I have to weld the inner fender to it and burning off the primer etc. on the other side.

The rust reformer that is on the car now I was going to sand it off at the end and try and do the entire car in something like epoxy primer before paint anyway.

I assume a quart of epoxy primer + activator would last a little while? (area not time)

I know Eastwood sells it and my other choice locally will be whatever O'Reilly has, I am sure I could order off Amazon as well. Of course I want the cheapest I can get but I don't want junk either.

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

Going to ask this because I have no idea about epoxy primer again, a little while before I actually need it.

If I want to epoxy the whole car how much should I buy, 2 quarts, a gallon, etc? Eastwood has a gallon with catalyst for a bit over $100, just don't want to buy too much and waste it, but also don't want to run short.

See Ya,
Mike