Hood bow, how to fix?

Discussions about general body work and modifications
Caveman49
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Caveman49 »

Thanks Jim, yeah I wouldn’t beat on it with the paint job you have. You might try the tip Lou mentioned with using shims under your upper fender bolts. That is to slide them under the fender lip under the hood. It gave mine a bit more lift.
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Lee

Lou's Comet
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Lou's Comet »

Caveman49 wrote:
Sat Mar 26, 2022 8:22 pm
Thanks Jim, yeah I wouldn’t beat on it with the paint job you have. You might try the tip Lou mentioned with using shims under your upper fender bolts. That is to slide them under the fender lip under the hood. It gave mine a bit more lift.
That's what I had to do on my Comet. My hood is fiberglass so hitting it not going to work. Got it to fit as good as possible then shimmed the fender to match, came our real nice.

I am also using a second set of hood bumpers for my hood. Replace the rear fender bolts on both sides with adjustable hood bumpers, lowered the hood hinges just a smidge and use the bumpers to raise the rear of the hood just enough to keep tension on it.
This did two things for me, first it did take a take some of the bow out of the hood, and two I can adjust the play out of the hinges. My hinges have no springs on them because of the fiberglass hood. And without the springs to keep tension on the hinge when yo close the hood you need to go back and push on rear hood corners to get the hood to line up right. With the bumpers on the rear I just lower the hinge a little and the bumper keeps the tension on hood. Works well.

Lou

Caveman49
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Caveman49 »

Got the 66 back in my shop, I really need to get out there more, now that parts are coming in. Ordered and received the bondo Lou recommended, picked up one of the 3M Platinum Plus gallon cans. Taking the front off, fenders, hood, bumper, splash shields etc, ordered new rubber parts from AutoKrafters, hope they work out 🤷🏻‍♂️ if their parts and service are good I’ll be buying more from them.

While I have the front sheet metal off I’ll take my time with the body work, along with replacing front suspension parts, will be a lot easier with hood and fenders off. Just received the Bilstein shocks I ordered from John & Sheri over at Opentracker Racing. They’re really great folks to deal with, I emailed and told them I was considering the Shelby (Arning) Drop, and John called me to discuss possible issues I may have, and things I can do or take into consideration. Great customer service, and relations.

The therapy is good, but the old body feels the pain much more after a day of crawling, rolling, pull ups by door handles, trying to get the legs straight after a short kneeling time, but it’s fun and relaxing. Just take my time, listen to my music and never get frustrated, not like 30 or 40 years back, throwing stuff, bustin knuckles, incurring more damage sometimes than I started with. 😬

Here’s the current state of the 66. It’s still drivable so I can now pull it out to blast and clean stuff. Lou, notice the washers that were under the fender lip, and what looks like seam sealer, wonder if that was done at the factory?

Motor Safe,
Lee
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Lee

Caveman49
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Caveman49 »

Now that I’m getting more serious with the body work I’ve been reading threads on primers, watching you tube, and wondering what’s really the best and easiest primer to use. I’m considering the epoxy 1 to 1 from Eastwood, looks easy to work with, and I’m by far a painter, mostly rattle can.
So, I’m looking for a decent gun that won’t cost a bunch, and will put this primer down, and maybe more. I believe the 1.7 or > is a good primer nozzle, no? Also once the epoxy primer is down, I’m a little confused on, do I need to lay another surface primer down, or can I shoot my base/clear (which I’m leaning towards) over the epoxy.

So many variables in painting, I just want to shoot something fairly simple, and have it look decent, I’m not after the show quality stuff.
Heck, I was even thinking MAACO or the likes might be ok.

Any help or feedback would be much appreciated/thanks.
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Lee

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Joe Travers
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Joe Travers »

Good questions, Lee. I've been following along getting some ideas.

Doing a nice job. Keep on keeping on!

Joe
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342 stroker, solid roller, T-10, 3.55 posi

Caveman49
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Caveman49 »

Yeah Joe, I’m a novice at painting vehicles with a spray gun, but am going to give it a try. If you get any info or have a go at it, please let me (us) know. I’ve looked at several of Lou’s postings and he seems to be pretty good at it, and likes the paint he’s been using for quite awhile, PPG. I’m going to re-read some of his posts on painting.
Have a good day!

Just looked at one of Mike’s old post where Lou talked about PPG Omni and others, seems to be a 1 to 1 as well. I’ll have to check with our local paint shops and see what they carry.

Also, I guess I’ll need to look at the other prep material, wiping the areas down with a cleaner, and tacking down, man, it’s like one better know this stuff or it’ll be a waste of time and money with a bad end result. Something I surely need to avoid 😬
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Lee

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Joe Travers
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Joe Travers »

Caveman49 wrote:
Sun Apr 10, 2022 4:00 pm
Yeah Joe, I’m a novice at painting vehicles with a spray gun, but am going to give it a try. If you get any info or have a go at it, please let me (us) know.
I have a small job that will eventually have to be addressed. Haven't done a load of bodywork, really not my cup of tea either.
Sizing it up. Have a great week!

Joe
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Lou's Comet
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Lou's Comet »

Caveman49 wrote:
Wed Apr 06, 2022 3:15 am
....................Here’s the current state of the 66. It’s still drivable so I can now pull it out to blast and clean stuff. Lou, notice the washers that were under the fender lip, and what looks like seam sealer, wonder if that was done at the factory?

Motor Safe,
Lee
I don't think the factory would have used the washers, I think they would have used shims. But hey who knows

Looks like you are making progress.

Lou
Last edited by Lou's Comet on Sun Apr 10, 2022 7:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Lou's Comet
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Lou's Comet »

Caveman49 wrote:
Sun Apr 10, 2022 2:24 pm
Now that I’m getting more serious with the body work I’ve been reading threads on primers, watching you tube, and wondering what’s really the best and easiest primer to use. I’m considering the epoxy 1 to 1 from Eastwood, looks easy to work with, and I’m by far a painter, mostly rattle can.
So, I’m looking for a decent gun that won’t cost a bunch, and will put this primer down, and maybe more. I believe the 1.7 or > is a good primer nozzle, no? Also once the epoxy primer is down, I’m a little confused on, do I need to lay another surface primer down, or can I shoot my base/clear (which I’m leaning towards) over the epoxy.

So many variables in painting, I just want to shoot something fairly simple, and have it look decent, I’m not after the show quality stuff.
Heck, I was even thinking MAACO or the likes might be ok.

Any help or feedback would be much appreciated/thanks.
The quick easy directions to painting your car.

1. Take car down to bare metal. This will let you know what you have, keep you from having problems later, and give you a nicer paint job that will last longer. Best way to accomplish this is a da and 80 grit paper.

2. Once the car is bare metal, do all your major metal work, removing major dents, rust work, patches, any modifications.

3. Once metal work is done then I spray epoxy primer (2 Coats) on the panel and do any plastic work over the epoxy. (You can skip the epoxy and put your plastic directly on the metal if you want, but It works better and last longer when done over the epoxy.) Any panels that don't need plastic/filler you can do 2 coats epoxy then spray the primer surfacer directly over the epoxy. Most epoxy primers have a window of 3-7 days where you can spray over them without sanding the epoxy.

4. After plastic work is done spray 2 coats epoxy over top the plastic to seal the plastic. Then spray primer/surfacer over epoxy. Again if you do this while in the window of time the epoxy primer has you don't have to sand the epoxy primer, just wipe it down and spray the primer/surfacer right over it.

5. Once you have the panel in primer/surfacer let it sit for awhile, I like to let it sit at least a week.

6. Now you need to decide If you think the car is nice enough to sand the primer and paint, or if you want to block it out and re-primer it. I always block the first coats of primer/surfacer with 220 and re-primer. Depending on what it looks like after the first blocking I decide if I and going to re-primer it and sand to paint. Or if I want to re-primer and block it again with 220.

7. After I am happy with how the car looks from blocking it with 220, I put the last coats of primer/surfacer on panel/car let sit for couple weeks then wet sand with 600 for paint

8. Then paint.

Now that is the quick notes for body/paint but the basics.

Anytime you are going to sand or spray a panel you need to wipe it down with a wax and grease remover first,you can even use Windex if you want.
I have a buddy who uses Windex all the time with no problems and I have used it once in awhile when I didn't have wax and grease remover.

You really only need to tack rag a car when you are ready to paint color, and I will also tack rag a car in between spraying color and clear if doing BC/CC. Single stage you just tack it before spraying color.
Tacking the car is to keep dirt out of the paint, if you get some dirt in the epoxy or primer it will be sanded out when ya sand the car.

Breaking the work up into smaller pieces makes the job easier, doing the panels one or two at a time makes it less overwhelming.

Taking the time to mask off what you are spraying will save you time later in trying to get overspray off. Plus masking off holes, engine compartments, trunk compartments, interiors etc will keep the dirt/dust in those areas and off your paint. Remove as much trim as you are comfortable with.

Before you do the final wipe down with wax/grease remover, and tacking for paint ground the car with a chain. This helps with static from all the wiping which also attracts dust/dirt.

Try to stay with one brand for the process. For example if you are using Acme paint, then use Acme epoxy's, primers, reducers, hardners, etc.

A roll of masking plastic (18'x350') goes a long way and will make the job and your life easier.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-06724-350-Pla ... N2P8K?th=1

Use better masking tape, at least the 3m yellow, the 3m green is my fav but pricey. Don't use the Home Depot blue stuff, or the cheap bargain stuff it will probably bleed through on ya and can become a real pain to remove.

Get enough paint, to make sure you can do everything, having paint leftover is good. Never know when you may have to do some touch up. Or repaint a panel. Plus running out during the process could lead to a bunch of extra work. Like re-sanding to put final coats on.

Don't overthink it. Don't rush it. Don't panic. Doing a little here and a little there will still get it done.

Solid colors are way easier to spray than metallics, pearls, or tri-coats/candies.

A harbor freight spray gun will work for the primers, (1.7 tip works) and you could get one for the paint too (1.3-1.5 tip), not sure if they have any spray guns with interchangeable tips. although a cheaper name brand gun will be easier to spray the color/clear. Something like a Finishline.

Base coat clear coat is a little more money and time but is easier and any mistakes or repairs down the road will be easier. Single stage will be cheaper, quicker but more difficult to repair later. Plus if you are going to color sand and buff BC/CC is better.

Good plastic/filler like 3m platinum will make your life easier. Da paper doesn't need to be 3m the generic works pretty well.

I do like PPG paint, been using it for close to 40 years with good results

If doing BC/CC the color doesn't have to be high end, but I would use a better High Solids clear. The cheap clears don't have as much UV protection and have a tendency to de-laminate

Been doing auto body/paint for many years. There are other ways of doing this that also work, but these are the procedures that have worked best for me. There are also other procedures for like cutting out and patching damage or rust. Blocking out panels, etc that if you have questions I would be more than happy to help ya or give you my opinion,.

You have any questions just ask.

Hope this helps ya

Lou

Caveman49
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Caveman49 »

Lou, thanks so much for taking the time and explaining the process you use, helps a lot, and is very much appreciated. I know this probably helps many of the folks out there looking to DIY.

I recently bought the surface conditioning tool from HF, we’ll see how that works out before I put the da to work, but I do have some body tools inherited from my dad (RIP dad). He had a used car business for many years and I wound up with a lot of his tools. Got several tool chests, a variety of body tools (air files, da’s, grinders, etc, to include some old devilbiss and binks paint guns) to mention some of it…..

I’m hoping to finally get my shop cleared and cleaned out from the Mustang stuff that’s been here for several years. Waiting for the fellow to come get the rest this month, and this will give me some working space to do my body and paint work.

Will update as I progress. Thanks again for the help to all, especially to Lou!
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Lee

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Jims65cyclone
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Jims65cyclone »

Thanks, Lou! Bookmarked!! :D

Jim
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A/FX
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by A/FX »

All the steps in the procedure are good and informative, body work and paint can be challenging. One step that either I missed or was not mentioned is using a polyester filer primer after applying the epoxy primer. When we did my Cyclone we used two gallons of polyester primer although most of it ended up on the floor after blocking the body with long and contoured sanding blocks. I never realized how big Comet body panels were until I block sanded them for a week! Thanks for posting the step by step process, I am sure it will help a few guys with their refinishing project.
Jim
Here it os in polyester primer:
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‘64 Cyclone/ Boss 302,quads,4spd, Winters 9”

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Caveman49
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Caveman49 »

I don’t know if this old body will hold up with all the sanding 😄 although, it may help keep me in shape. I like the body cart Jim, I just sold mine with a 66 Mustang convertible on it, didn’t think I’d ever use it again. Purchased it from Redline back when they were a bit cheaper then now. I don’t plan of ever getting the deep into a resto again.
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Lee

Lou's Comet
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Lou's Comet »

A/FX wrote:
Sun Apr 10, 2022 11:18 pm
All the steps in the procedure are good and informative, body work and paint can be challenging. One step that either I missed or was not mentioned is using a polyester filer primer after applying the epoxy primer. When we did my Cyclone we used two gallons of polyester primer although most of it ended up on the floor after blocking the body with long and contoured sanding blocks. I never realized how big Comet body panels were until I block sanded them for a week! Thanks for posting the step by step process, I am sure it will help a few guys with their refinishing project.
Jim
Here it os in polyester primer:
Image

A nice selection of contoured sanding blocks definitely goes a long way. These work well
https://www.amazon.com/Soft-Sanders-San ... B004H2CF64
Contour to many shapes, And they come in different sizes, up to 16". Can also be cut to custom size if need be. Also will contour a little better to the body than the harder dura blocks. But the dura blocks also work well esp for the larger flat areas.

Lee's 66 doesn't have the same body recess down the side as the 64/65's do so that will make it a little easier.

I don't use polyester primer. After taking the car to metal and doing the metal work. Epoxy prime, filler work, epoxy prime over filler work, then straight to a 2k urethane primer/surfacer and blocking/sanding, and then paint.

For me less steps and less products keeps the process simpler and only need to keep on hand two primers, epoxy primer and 2k urethane primer/surfacer. Also IMO when you have more steps and more products you have more potential for problems.

There are many ways to paint a car this is just my way, not saying it is the only way. Other ways work fine also. This is just what works for me.

Some go with epoxy primer over the bare metal, then plastic/filler, epoxy primer over filler, then polyester primer and blocking, then 2k urethane primer and sand, then sealer, (I don't use sealer either unless I am not going to primer the whole car) and then paint. And done right this process works fine with great results. But it is more steps, more products and the potential for more problems especially for a beginner/novice.

When using the polyester primer you can't paint directly over it, you need to primer over it or use sealer.

Whatever way a person goes with the paint procedure get product information sheets for all the products you are going to use, read and make sure you understand what the products are compatible with, the requirements/mixing/ flash times /dry times/and procedures for each product you use. Also wear a decent mask.

And have Fun with it. For most this is a hobby and it should be fun!

**Edit** Lee, I didn't mean to insinuate that you(or anyone else) were a beginner or novice, that was more of reference for the general public and guests that frequent this forum. I can see from your posts that this isn't your first Rodeo.

Lou
Last edited by Lou's Comet on Mon Apr 11, 2022 8:30 am, edited 2 times in total.

Lou's Comet
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Re: Hood bow, how to fix?

Post by Lou's Comet »

Caveman49 wrote:
Sun Apr 10, 2022 11:37 pm
I don’t know if this old body will hold up with all the sanding 😄 although, it may help keep me in shape. I like the body cart Jim, I just sold mine with a 66 Mustang convertible on it, didn’t think I’d ever use it again. Purchased it from Redline back when they were a bit cheaper then now. I don’t plan of ever getting the deep into a resto again.
Some days I will take a couple Tylenol before I start sanding just to get a head start on the pain lol. But you are right it will help keep you in shape,.

Lou

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