Just an idea, and a cheap one at that.
In the 80s I raced a 289 powered Falcon in a street stock class
circle tracker. I just used the tiny stock rad plus I took the heater core and mounted it behind the headlights.
The motor ran at about 4 grand plus all the time never hit
200 on the temp gauge.
Yes I got a lot a sideways looks about it but out ran most of them on the track too!
Or you can spend the bucks on aluminum.
That's a great idea, Fred! There aren't many blistering cold days down here in the Deep South. Much concern about overheating w/ AC running in traffic. Auxiliary mini-rad, I like it.
Yeah the coolant looks gross and rusty. Here’s the thing, I don’t think it has a heater? From what I can tell the hoses come out the firewall and go to nothing. Just hang there. On one hand I live in Florida and I don’t think I’ll need heat but on the other hand I live in Florida and might need to turn that on haha. Hence why I’m trying to figure out how to keep it running the coolest now, because I won’t be able to blast the heater in a pinch.
My first car was a '62 Galaxie my Pop bought when we lived in Key West. He bought it with heater delete, no need for it. When we moved, he had a heater installed for colder winters.
Always loved Turquoise Blue
JT
see alot of Comets rthat color trying to catch up with red
Yeah the coolant looks gross and rusty. Here’s the thing, I don’t think it has a heater? From what I can tell the hoses come out the firewall and go to nothing. Just hang there. On one hand I live in Florida and I don’t think I’ll need heat but on the other hand I live in Florida and might need to turn that on haha. Hence why I’m trying to figure out how to keep it running the coolest now, because I won’t be able to blast the heater in a pinch.
My first car was a '62 Galaxie my Pop bought when we lived in Key West. He bought it with heater delete, no need for it. When we moved, he had a heater installed for colder winters.
Always loved Turquoise Blue
JT
see alot of Comets rthat color trying to catch up with red
Only way that's gonna happen is we all get arrested
even tho I painted mine a shade of vermillion red with clear back in 95,,,at least for a 64,,,anniversary silver that was on the new 64 comet my uncle bought new is my pick.....jmo,,,but they all look good when wet pop
Hey Slowburn if you’re talking about the nut on top of the steering gearbox be careful with that. You could go from loose steering to a destroyed steering gear if you tighten it too much.
Cool car!
Good to know about that nut. I have got used to the wild steering wheel now. Maybe I’ll just drive it how it is then! It has about 8” of play in it? But I’m used to it now and know where the sweet spots are
Have some one work the wheel back & forth from start of play to end & back & forth ,while you look at the steering linkages ,& tierods. look for movement in the joints. some of that play may be in those & if so put new ones on,it may cure a lot of the play.
My brother had 8" of play in his old Bronco and it was a death trap.
You need linkage/front suspension work or steering box rebuild. Maybe both.
Take John's advice and check it out before something crazy happens.
Like John said, part of that looseness could be in the steering linkage rather than the steering box. Jack both front wheels an inch or two off the ground at the same time, either by lifting under the torque boxes or centered under the rad support. You want the wheels to hang free. Grab each wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and wiggle from side to side. It's easier if you have a helper to do the wiggling. Look for play in the tie rod ends and especially in the idler arm. A worn out idler arm can cause a lot of slop. Also, place a crowbar under each wheel at 6 o'clock and lift up and down as you look at the upper and lower ball joints for looseness. Looseness in any of those components can cause sloppy steering and make it impossible to accurately set and maintain alignment, resulting in poor drivability and excessive tire wear.
