Folks,
I was able to get the lock nut turned back on the end of the power steering control valve. Used a slot cut in the end of the shaft then a short screw driver and a 2 x 4 as a pry/ pressure, then loosened the nut. Re torqued to a light 8 inch lbs then backed off 90 degrees.
On the new primary cables and carb adjustments the car started very well at high idle. Looking for better weather for some tests on the road for the power steering.
The old cables :
Enjoy reading your thread, so keep it coming. Earlier you said it ran better when the choke stayed closed a little. Perhaps you have vacuum leak somewhere and cutting the airflow brought things back in line? A trick old Pops has shared with many of us is, once it's running and warmed up, cup both of your hands over the choke plate and close off as much of the air as you can from coming in through the top. If the car keeps running, then you have a vacuum leak somewhere (it shouldn't be able to run completely choked off unless enough air is coming in through a leak). PCV value is a great place to start (especially if you have the inlet below the carb on that spacer plate. That's a big hole below the choke. If you have power brakes, that vacuum line is another big leak and it runs to the vacuum T behind the carb. You can take that one off and just plug it for testing purposes. If you haven't been through the idle adjustment setup on the carb, it may be that the idle inlet screws on the front are letting in too much air. Lots of things to check, but none of them cost you anything except for time.
1964 Comet Caliente Convertible
30,000 miles on our rebuild
Groover, Folks,
I realized that I have slightly over stepped my introduction thread and have moved into the 65 Comet section of this forum.
Your points about the carb are right on. I have fixed some vacuum leaks, and things continue to get better as I learn about all the adjustments.
Will catch up with you in the 65 section!
