COMET CENTRAL

Hi,

The PO installed an Autometer mechanical OP gauge in my 1967 Caliente and I'd appreciate some advice as to how to clean up the installation.

As you can see from the photos (which are all sideways, sorry), there is a lot of copper wire coiled up on the fender and the actual connection is made using rubber hose. Not nice IMO.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

You need to route the copper to the sender. There must not have been enough when the other person did it, hence the splice. You can buy a new roll of copper with ferrules and nuts, or plastic line. And consider the engine rocking when you route it.

Thanks Lip Ripper

Could you not route that line lower and attache the copper right to the motor? Does it need to run up high like that?

I would think you could come out of the firewall and lower along the apron. Most I have ever dealt with ran the copper straight from the motor to the gauge and like Lip Ripper said always consider engine movement so don't pull it real tight so it can't move with it.

I guess you could put a high pressure hose on the motor sender but really a couple of wraps in the copper would take care of any flex if that was a concern.

See Ya,
Mike

Thanks! What about steel braided line?

Steel braided line will work fine but there is nothing wrong with the copper. Just find one close to the length you need and if there is any extra you can tuck it up underneath the dash. FYI, it will probably cost a bit more, but way better in my opinion in. Less likely to leak and look a whole lot better.

Thanks loman.
What do people think of routing the oil pressure line up the front of the block and up over the intake manifold back to the firewall. With copper or SS line, is there a potential problem doing this?
I really don't like the way the line is currently routed on my car--from the block to the left fender, across the firewall and into the passenger compartment.
Thanks!

masonjarz wrote:Thanks! What about steel braided line?

Braided or any other large ID tubing will likely cause the gauge needle to vibrate if it's a full sweep. Works OK otherwise.You can't really straighten out the cheap plastic stuff that usually comes with the gauge. Works good if you like looking at your oil on the floor...or carpet... after you get a few yrs on it. Copper is best for a street type car.They sell just the copper line kit at Advance or other sources.

Thanks, Vicegrip.

I have copper now. What I guess I'm really looking for is a cleaner installation of the copper I've currently got.

Right now, it seems like there is way too much line, it doesn't go to the sender--that's rubber hose, and the loops are on the fender and look goofy.

masonjarz wrote:Thanks, Vicegrip.

I have copper now. What I guess I'm really looking for is a cleaner installation of the copper I've currently got.

Right now, it seems like there is way too much line, it doesn't go to the sender--that's rubber hose, and the loops are on the fender and look goofy.

I normally run the copper line out of the fire wall and then go between the intake manifold and valve cover and then down to the oil sender hole. You can use fasteners held down with the valve cover bolts. looks like you might have enough line to make it.
tom

Thanks, tomb. That’s what I wanted to hear! You wouldn’t happen to have a photo would you? Thanks

masonjarz wrote:Thanks, tomb. That’s what I wanted to hear! You wouldn’t happen to have a photo would you? Thanks

Sorry. Not at the moment.

I like to run my line over top by the valve cover down to sender location also.I try to make the line a just right length,allowing for movement,,,I always use a rubber grommet on the firewall,,if I don't have a grommet,,I'll use a piece of rubber hose,but a grommet looks neater,,any slack is coiled under dash and supported by a zip tie..on this cobra project we have going,,am going with an lectric gauge,it has it's own sender and will just run a wire,,,,thank you and good luck...….pop

Thanks, Pop. Do you include loops to compensate for engine movement? If so, where on the routing? Thanks

masonjarz wrote:Thanks, Pop. Do you include loops to compensate for engine movement? If so, where on the routing? Thanks

believe it or not,your not going to get that much engine movement,, if you run the line up front of block and bend over top of intake along side of valve cover and go as straight as possible thru the firewall,and thru a rubber grommet,under dash is where I take up the slack gentlely make a coil or 2 then support the coil with a zip tie to anything under dash,,,but don't pull zip tie so tight that you take a chance of copper line or plastic rubbing a hole,,,copper line can be kinda shape into a easy route ,but be VERY gentle it's easy crimped or kinked,,plastic line lays how it is,you may have to support it a couple of times with a zip tie...this is pop's way,,,,I always start from engine and work myself back to mounting gauge in or under dash,,,engine movement has never gave a problem doing it this way...thanks ,,,,good luck !!!pop