1962 Comet Build Thread

The Round Body, Finned Comets
darryl27529
Posts: 46
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2019 8:27 am

Re: 1962 Comet Build Thread

Post by darryl27529 »

Update. Been working on some small things today trying to get the Comet road worthy. I set the timing and ran the vacuum line for the distributor advance. Seems to be working pretty well. Also ran a new vacuum line for the windshield wipers and I was happy to see they started working! Also installed some mirrors on the outside. These are the Scott Drake ones that are $27 per mirror and they come with hardware. I have tried the Bullet mustang style and some larger ones from MAC auto and I like these better. The mirror part is bigger and the base is a little smaller than those. Working on my list. Stay safe.
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62Cometman
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2017 3:47 pm

Re: 1962 Comet Build Thread

Post by 62Cometman »

darryl27529 wrote:
Wed Jun 17, 2020 7:24 pm
Has anyone done the Shelby drop on a Comet? I am thinking the drop works for these early Comets but wondering how much of a difference it makes. Any input is appreciated.
I did the shelby drop on my car, the stance didnt really change that much but i also replaced springs at the same time, it does seem to handle better, but that could also be from all the new bushings as well :roll: at the end of the day its definitely not going to hurt anything, you can buy upper control arms that use the stock mounting hole but have the drop built into the arm itself, they are pricey but are a nice option if you dont want to drill extra holes into your shock towers

https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1904-m ... shaft.aspx

you will have to use the v8 spindles if you arent already,

follow up question whose headers are you using? i dont see it mentioned anywhere, the early manifolds on my car are ok but they touch the steering box and its causing vibration throughout the car which is getting annoying.
62 Comet 170, dagneham trans, 2.8 7.25 rear 260 T5 8 inch swap planned for the future.

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darryl27529
Posts: 46
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2019 8:27 am

Re: 1962 Comet Build Thread

Post by darryl27529 »

Thanks for the input regarding the Shelby drop. The front is sitting up a little bit relative to the back. I have 1 inch lowering springs in the front and 1 inch lowering springs in the back but i think it dropped a little more with the axle swap and the new spring perches. I like it but want the front a touch lower.

I am running stock exhaust manifolds. The previous owner put them on the engine. I think its a 1979 302. Its close but its doesnt touch as least that I have seen. Keep in mind that I am just driving in my driveway and down the street. I have not seem any interference. I can send some pictures if that helps you. Just let me know.

darryl27529
Posts: 46
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2019 8:27 am

Re: 1962 Comet Build Thread

Post by darryl27529 »

Quick update. Horn is now working and the turn signals. I kept fiddling with the turn signals and after uncovering some electrical tape I realized there were a couple of wires making an intermittent connection. My advice to anyone working on an old car is learn how to properly splice and solder. It really helps to make things more reliable. Also installed a Sunpro Mini Tach on the column. I ended up using JB Weld to bond it onto the column. I like the way it looks and it was pretty inexpensive. During that process I realized the coil was wired backwards.

Mike, I am on my second starter solenoid too. Same issue with over torquing the first one.

My list is getting shorter which I think is a good thing. I still have to get parking brake adjusted. It feels like the hand pull is not actuating far enough to engage the ebrake on the new axle. I really want that solved before I take off down the street.

Thats about it for now. Stay safe.

lavron
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Location: Missouri, Ozarks way North
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Re: 1962 Comet Build Thread

Post by lavron »

darryl27529 wrote:
Wed Jul 22, 2020 7:43 am
Mike, I am on my second starter solenoid too. Same issue with over torquing the first one.
Glad I am not the only one to break perfectly good parts :roll: :P
darryl27529 wrote:
Wed Jul 22, 2020 7:43 am
I kept fiddling with the turn signals and after uncovering some electrical tape I realized there were a couple of wires making an intermittent connection. My advice to anyone working on an old car is learn how to properly splice and solder.
Even though I have owned my Comet longer than anyone else I thought after 55 years it was a good time to change it all out (I may have made some of those sketchy patch together wiring jobs through the years), I did re-use the fuel gauge wire because the plug end fit the new gas tank and the grommet that goes through the floor was still in good shape, but at the front when I stripped the insulation back on the wire instead of the copper underneath being bright and shiny it is dull, maybe it always looked like that but suspect air intrusion over time has oxidized the wire inside the jacket, I don't think it is enough to affect the performance of the wire just an observation, a wire that has been knicked through the years could have significant corrosion inside and you wouldn't know it.

Again all that might not make any difference.

See Ya,
Mike
64 Comet 202 Sedan, My first car, I have owned it since 1979!
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Performance rebuild on a BUDGET - Working on; 250-6, T-5, 8.8 LSD, MII, Air Ride - Whatever I do it will be awesome!

darryl27529
Posts: 46
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2019 8:27 am

Re: 1962 Comet Build Thread

Post by darryl27529 »

Need some suggestions. I have been draining the battery pretty quickly. I converted the Comet to a GM style alternator. With the red and white pigtail connnected to the alternator, I am drawing 3.6 Amps. Disconnected its about 0.07 Amps. I have the diode in place and it checks with a multimeter tester. I am starting to think the voltage regulator in the alternator is bad. It will charge but it just drains the battery when connected and the switch is off. Anyone else seen that?

darryl27529
Posts: 46
Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2019 8:27 am

Re: 1962 Comet Build Thread

Post by darryl27529 »

Think I figured it out. Pin 1 on the alternator is the signal to tell it to charge. I have it connected at the voltage regulator (that has been gutted) which also has the starter solenoid connection so basically its always sitting at the battery voltage. Gonna try connecting to the + side of the coil so that its only seeing voltage when the switch is ON. I think that will work.

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