New carb what's best
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- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2020 9:54 pm
New carb what's best
I was driving the car around today and as soon as it gets to temp the car shuts off won't restart until it cooled a bit it starts for a minute and dies then wait some more. Got to messing with the carb which was "rebuilt". The idle screen does nothing and the choke is not shutting off and it is tight. I could rebuild what is a good rebuild bit? If i were to throw a carb at it what carb are yall running on the 170?
Re: New carb what's best
on my 170 I had 3 Autolite 1100, not sure what style your current one is but some will disagree with me, the car always had an 1100 on it and when I did the Offenhauser triple set-up on it I put Holley (1940s or something like that, they are the ones with a side mount bowl, some even have a glass bowl, which looks totally cool) they were finicky, and I was messing with them all the time, constantly had to reset the float because they would flood, they also froze in the winter and would boil the gas and vapor lock, I replaced them with a set of 1100s and never had an issue with them, after getting them synced I never had to touch them again.
That was just my experience with them, the issue maybe could have been mitigated with some fiber or plastic spacers but it was easier for me, at the time, to buy every 1100 I could find at the local junkyards until I found a semi matching set (the middle one had a larger bore than the two outside ones which matched one of them being the original carb.
That probably does not help you any but that is my experience with Holleys VS Autolites, I think most of the early cars were running Hoilleys at least that is where I got most of them from in the JY way back when (yes I scoured the JYs finding Holleys first, then went back for 1100s ) yes that was over 30 years ago when those kind of things were plentiful and cheap ( I am guessing I was paying a couple of bucks each for the carbs).
See Ya,
Mike
That was just my experience with them, the issue maybe could have been mitigated with some fiber or plastic spacers but it was easier for me, at the time, to buy every 1100 I could find at the local junkyards until I found a semi matching set (the middle one had a larger bore than the two outside ones which matched one of them being the original carb.
That probably does not help you any but that is my experience with Holleys VS Autolites, I think most of the early cars were running Hoilleys at least that is where I got most of them from in the JY way back when (yes I scoured the JYs finding Holleys first, then went back for 1100s ) yes that was over 30 years ago when those kind of things were plentiful and cheap ( I am guessing I was paying a couple of bucks each for the carbs).
See Ya,
Mike
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- Posts: 143
- Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2020 8:23 pm
Re: New carb what's best
.. there are a couple of 'better' carbs available for the small six considered 'upgrades'. The early Holley, Autolite, Carter carbs can be fine but finding a tight clean survivor is rare. Mixed parts and questionable past rebuilds, worn shafts etc... If 'NOS can be found it eleminates a lot of concerns. Many 60's carbs have open fuel bowl vent, often dripping when sloshed under harsh driving.
'Rebuilt' early carbs have gotten expensive recently . Also 'old stock' rebuilds are often the sad returned cores from defunct retail or rebuilders.
I use a 'Holley/Weber' progressive 32/36 type 2barrel from a 70's Merc' Capri 2.8 V6 on the 63 Wagon with 170 cid(2.8L). IT uses a simple $15.oo 2X1 adapter and original linkage. I don't have the choke hooked up but always starts fine in cold weather with a few pumps'
(The H/W 5200 series progressive 2Bbl's were licensed by Weber's 32/36 and built by Holley. They say Weber in bottom of fuel bowl'. Used by small to medium displacement 4 cyl cars from Ford to Chrysler and many other applications in many versions... )
An early 70's Carter YF from a 170 Maverick is favorites as an initial engine startup carb . Little emission stuff and decent response under light load.
Recently comparitively cheap 'offshore' copies of the venerable Holley 1904 , Carter YF's and other 1bbl genre are availble. I got one to tear down and was most similar size / jets, to larger throttle bore early Holleys for Ford big six applications but tighter than 90 percent of typical old Holley's, Carter, etc. . Maybe worth a shot for @ $ 200.oo. Smaller versions now available.
typical
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-For ... 1196.m2219
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Fit ... Sw7ahgE6vr
Holley synchronous 2 bbl's 2300 series 350 CFM 7448 type 2 Bbls on adapters or 'modified head' available cheap and plentiful from small V8 applications but much too big for stock engine low RPM response. The easier to find 500 CFM 4412 version 2300 is way too big .
Any actual WEBER synchronous 2Bbl's can be adapted, but not simply.
'it's said carburetor is French for 'don't F&#k with it..."
Hav efun
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'Rebuilt' early carbs have gotten expensive recently . Also 'old stock' rebuilds are often the sad returned cores from defunct retail or rebuilders.
I use a 'Holley/Weber' progressive 32/36 type 2barrel from a 70's Merc' Capri 2.8 V6 on the 63 Wagon with 170 cid(2.8L). IT uses a simple $15.oo 2X1 adapter and original linkage. I don't have the choke hooked up but always starts fine in cold weather with a few pumps'
(The H/W 5200 series progressive 2Bbl's were licensed by Weber's 32/36 and built by Holley. They say Weber in bottom of fuel bowl'. Used by small to medium displacement 4 cyl cars from Ford to Chrysler and many other applications in many versions... )
An early 70's Carter YF from a 170 Maverick is favorites as an initial engine startup carb . Little emission stuff and decent response under light load.
Recently comparitively cheap 'offshore' copies of the venerable Holley 1904 , Carter YF's and other 1bbl genre are availble. I got one to tear down and was most similar size / jets, to larger throttle bore early Holleys for Ford big six applications but tighter than 90 percent of typical old Holley's, Carter, etc. . Maybe worth a shot for @ $ 200.oo. Smaller versions now available.
typical
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-For ... 1196.m2219
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Fit ... Sw7ahgE6vr
Holley synchronous 2 bbl's 2300 series 350 CFM 7448 type 2 Bbls on adapters or 'modified head' available cheap and plentiful from small V8 applications but much too big for stock engine low RPM response. The easier to find 500 CFM 4412 version 2300 is way too big .
Any actual WEBER synchronous 2Bbl's can be adapted, but not simply.
'it's said carburetor is French for 'don't F&#k with it..."
Hav efun
.
. . .
. .
. .
.
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- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2020 9:54 pm
Re: New carb what's best
Has anyone done the Holly sniper fuel injection system?
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_sy ... ts/550-552
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_sy ... ts/565-315
Thinking about it because my car still has points and I want the car to be reliable for the wife to drive.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_sy ... ts/550-552
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_sy ... ts/565-315
Thinking about it because my car still has points and I want the car to be reliable for the wife to drive.
- Joe Travers
- Posts: 2424
- Joined: Mon Sep 21, 2020 6:23 pm
- Location: Louisiana
Re: New carb what's best
EFI is the most reliable when it comes to drivability but you're going to have to spring for an electric fuel pump and mount the O2 sensor in the exhaust to get it set up. It will automatically adjust air/fuel mixture to throttle position and increase efficiency. Carbs can be fine-tuned to transition well but ambient temperature, humidity and altitude constantly change. Carbs can be tuned for average conditions, whereas EFI can automatically compensate. I'm quite interested in it myself but it's pricey and electronic. I like neither and will stick to my carb.Rhino200099 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 31, 2021 1:00 pmHas anyone done the Holly sniper fuel injection system?
JT