Joe's '63 1/2 Tinkering Thread

[Joe Travers]

Staying with the rear suspension, this should be the last post there for the time being. Most of you know this one I'm sure, but the PO didn't. When I inspected the car last year, I overlooked it but noticed fluid seepage on the back of one of the rear brake backing plates. I chalked it up to a wheel cylinder and moved on.

After shaking the car down for a couple months, I noticed a pinion seal leak starting. Climbed under the car and found the vent tube was cut 3" long with a screw plug The block into the axle tube has 3/8" nipple for the line. What appeared to be a good 5/16" line was mounted to the rear frame rail, running into the frame. The end that was suppose to attach to the block was just hanging there. Seems a PO had mounted a new tube but found it to be too small and plugged off the block. The carrier nuts on the pinion case were also loose and needed tightening after a recent gear set change. A dumb move ruined a new pinion seal.

This is a pic of the installation of the proper 3/8" vent tube into the frame to keep out water and mud dabbers.



Joe

[poboyjo65]

I hope the brake hose isn't as close to the exhaust pipe as it looks like it is. probably camera angle. if you ever change it one from any 70's ford 1/2 ton truck fits ,is longer by plenty but comes in handy to snake around stuff & nice ,,gives you more slack if you ever drop the rearend down for shackle bushing replacement & such other maintenance.

[SASSY]

Just a vent hose,,,no?

[Joe Travers]

I hope the brake hose isn't as close to the exhaust pipe as it looks like it is. probably camera angle.

Yep, camera angle. Not touching and no problems with braking. Thanks for the interchange info!
I need all the feedback I can get. Info on the '63 1/2 is very slim to none. Have to learn as I go.

Joe

[Joe Travers]

Just a vent hose,,,no?

Yep, just noting diameter of hose for the '63 1/2 for others who may run into this one. A PO was confused, took an unfortunate 'short-cut'.
I wish I could find microfiche and parts manual for this car. Trying to avoid throwing money at it on fixed income and limited mobility.
Sometimes I think the last 3 owners sold this thing to pay their psychiatric bills

Joe

[Jims65cyclone]

I hope the brake hose isn't as close to the exhaust pipe as it looks like it is. if you ever change it one from any 70's ford 1/2 ton truck fits ,is longer by plenty but comes in handy to snake around stuff & nice ,,gives you more slack if you ever drop the rearend down for shackle bushing replacement & such other maintenance.

That's exactly what I did to mine. When a PO routed the dual exhaust, the rear brake hose ended up DANGEROUSLY close to one of the pipes. I shielded it with some aluminized heat resistant tape until I could get a longer hose. Best I recall it was for a 73 F150. It was 22" long whereas the original was 16" (I think). The only problem was that the block that connected to the axel was Y shaped where the original was a T. A slight rebending of the hardlines took care of that. Plenty of clearance now.

Jim

[Joe Travers]

When a PO routed the dual exhaust, the rear brake hose ended up DANGEROUSLY close to one of the pipes. I shielded it with some aluminized heat resistant tape until I could get a longer hose.

Double-checked this after John's comment to be sure. Hose is close but hasn't burned or hardened. I remember the Cyclone was a bit tricky, as well. If I remember correctly, it came stock with single exhaust and a cross-over pipe under the oil pan (?) I believe the crossmember was also 'notched' on passenger side for exhaust pipe routing. The Super Competition Hooker headers on this car drop the exhaust quite a bit under the pan. Pipe routing isn't a problem but ground clearance could be if I were to lower the front suspension. No way I could get by with Fred's stance. One drawback I haven't addressed is the emergency brake cable to the lever. It is disconnected because it binds on the pipe behind the collector.

Joe

[Joe Travers]

Not specific to Comet but to ethanol carbs-

When I bought my car, the Edelbrock AVS automatic choke was cranked down to full rich, causing the pistons to completely cake up with carbon. After taking it apart and tuning it a few times, I got it worked out but didn't care for the transition response. The engine originally had a Holley DP installed, so I hunted for one a bit and bought one that was supposedly off a running engine. The seller wasn't a Holley guy and admitted he didn't know them, only ran Edelbrocks. The price was right so I picked it up. When I tore it down I found this-



Never ran into oxidation like this before. It's a wonder it idled at all. It's very tough stuff to remove and required brake cleaner, green ScotchBrite pad and pick for the tight spots but I eventually got it all cleaned up. Front bowl, accelerator pump housing and metering block were all gummed up with this mess. I was really relieved when all the passages in the metering block and main body blew out clean. Took a full day to rebuild but runs like a champ with new jets and a Quick-Kit. Moral of the story- drain the carb, let it dry out and put it in a shoebox before you store it.

Joe

[A/FX]

Joe,
What a mess. The new fuels do not do well when left in a carb or tank for too long. I have seen where the fuel actually eats the metal on a carb when it sits for a period of time. Where I live we have to put the good cars away for the winter months, I have a habit of removing all the fuel and draining the carburetors on the Comet and every other vehicle I put in storage. I have never been a fan of using an additive like Sta Bil, even though others swear by it. Ethanol free fuel is available in certain counties around here so when possible I use it in my equipment, it is normally good for about a year.
Jim

[Joe Travers]

The new fuels do not do well when left in a carb or tank for too long. I have seen where the fuel actually eats the metal on a carb when it sits for a period of time.

Jim, the bottom of the bowl did have some minor pitting where you see the largest accumulation under the float in the picture. Have read off-road bike forums about this problem associated with water. Some actually epoxy their carbs in extreme cases. I bought this carb in a very rural area where good fuel was probably scarce or not used. Thankfully, I have a new Shell station near me in town with new storage tanks. I only run Shell 93 Nitro + fuel with a bottle of Lucas system cleaner in every fresh tank to slowly burn the carbon off the pistons from the previous bad tune. I scope the pistons every 100 miles to check on progress, there. They are cleaning up slowly but quite well. The associated 'ping' is disappearing as well. More affordable than a carbon clean from a shop.

Joe

[comethead]

Hey Joe!
The ethanol and other additives in the gas out here in CA is tough on my Comets 4100 as well. I had an accelerator pump harden and leak a couple months ago. And it seems to leave a gummy residue all over the place.
Let’s see how long this rebuild lasts. Last one wasnt too bad, its been about 7 years.
The Falcon has a 650 Holley DP and I only run no additive 105 octane race gas in it at $10/gallon Of course its track only but DAYUM that gets pricey.
I’m slowly getting it street legal because my boy wants to drive it too local car shows so I’ll have to decide on whether to fill up with pump gas (and suffer the consequences) or keep the race stuff in it.

Joe

[Joe Travers]

The ethanol and other additives in the gas out here in CA is tough on my Comets 4100 as well.

Fuel down here is generally very good and not as expensive as most of the country (we export a LOT). The problems here are high water table and underground storage tanks. Older stations that see low volume sales are to be avoided! Mucho agua, amigo

Joe

[Joe Travers]

Here's a head scratcher for you guys....

I'm reading an original owner's manual about fresh air venting and it mentions opening and shutting two doors to block that. I have the passenger-side door, sure enough but there isn't a door on the driver's side, as mentioned in the manual. The A/C just doesn't cut it when hot outside air is blowing in on your shoes. I remember some of the old Fords had controls for the vents. I'm assuming the '63 heater box is not equipped to fully close off outside air, like a factory A/C box?

Looks like the aftermarket A/C unit installation is a mistake. Thinking about pulling it and the P/S rack, taking weight out of the car and make it a true hot rod. It would really clean up the car under the hood and under the dash, making life a lot easier. All I need to buy is a manual rack to pull it off.

Joe

[A/FX]

Here's a head scratcher for you guys....

I'm reading an original owner's manual about fresh air venting and it mentions opening and shutting two doors to block that. I have the passenger-side door, sure enough but there isn't a door on the driver's side, as mentioned in the manual. The A/C just doesn't cut it when hot outside air is blowing in on your shoes. I remember some of the old Fords had controls for the vents. I'm assuming the '63 heater box is not equipped to fully close off outside air, like a factory A/C box?

Looks like the aftermarket A/C unit installation is a mistake. Thinking about pulling it and the P/S rack, taking weight out of the car and make it a true hot rod. It would really clean up the car under the hood and under the dash, making life a lot easier. All I need to buy is a manual rack to pull it off.


Joe

Joe,
There should be a knob on a short cable to the left of the steering column under the dash, it controls a flap door inside a round duct that bolts to the underside of the cowl plenum. Is it possible that the whole round duct is missing so cowl sourced air is allowed to free flow into the passenger compartment?
All the creature comforts like air conditioning, power steering, power brakes, etc. clutter up the engine bay, that is the main reason I did not include them in my build.
Jim

[poboyjo65]

Here's a head scratcher for you guys....

I'm reading an original owner's manual about fresh air venting and it mentions opening and shutting two doors to block that. I have the passenger-side door, sure enough but there isn't a door on the driver's side, as mentioned in the manual. The A/C just doesn't cut it when hot outside air is blowing in on your shoes. I remember some of the old Fords had controls for the vents. I'm assuming the '63 heater box is not equipped to fully close off outside air, like a factory A/C box?

Looks like the aftermarket A/C unit installation is a mistake. Thinking about pulling it and the P/S rack, taking weight out of the car and make it a true hot rod. It would really clean up the car under the hood and under the dash, making life a lot easier. All I need to buy is a manual rack to pull it off.


Joe

Joe,
There should be a knob on a short cable to the left of the steering column under the dash, it controls a flap door inside a round duct that bolts to the underside of the cowl plenum. Is it possible that the whole round duct is missing so cowl sourced air is allowed to free flow into the passenger compartment?
All the creature comforts like air conditioning, power steering, power brakes, etc. clutter up the engine bay, that is the main reason I did not include them in my build.
Jim

Jim you described the later style which probably started in 64. I think the earlier style was used probably up until 63 ,had a door like the pass side has. a mirrored image of the pass side door. they are hard to find,ask lipripper. I think he drove all day to get one & back home.

But I suspect it is completely gone .