Tinkering on the Holley today. Got 90% of my detonation problem solved when I recurved my distributor. Still had a tiny random ping when accelerating off idle while cruising in 4th gear. The cam on the carb was a 330 (center) and shows some wear off idle, compared to the new Pink330 on the right. Checked the chart and decided to swap to the next higher ramp (left) to get a better shot off idle. Should cover up the tiny ping. 330 cam is a dead fish off idle. Here's the chart, if anyone is doodling with this one- https://documents.holley.com/pumpcamgraph.pdf
No pings, gonna pick up a couple new spark plugs and start bumping the timing up.
Dialing in speedo today. Made a SWAG about the drive gear and missed driven gear by one tooth! Ordered two more different ones this time to nail it. Looks like every tooth= 4mph on my app. Speaking of apps, I'm going off hard calculations, not GPS. Wonder which is more accurate? Never used speedo phone apps before. Hand grenades and horseshoes......
Timing was spot on, so recurved the distributor. Voila, still no ping and now she jumps like a jackrabbit.
Detonation problem was accelerator pump all along. Never could get Edelbrock dialed in last year. The Holley is all good.
Next is drain the rad (again) and change out the lower rad and heater hoses. Should have done that when I dropped the heater box
Next is drain the rad (again) and change out the lower rad and heater hoses. Should have done that when I dropped the heater box
Joe
I'm going to try these this go around with mine,I just dont like the way the hoses have to bend so sharp to miss the head. I saw I think it was AFX Jim had some nice ones & I thought about making some then found these on the cheap,I may cut about half of those barbs off. ;
Here is how I plumbed the heater connections at the firewall on my Cyclone. First I extended the heater core tubes to the outside of the firewall, when I did that I offset them slightly to better clear the valve covers. I fit a threaded adaptor to the tube and indexed it so when the 90 degree aluminum fittings were installed they were clocked facing the left. The aluminum fittings have a barbed end to accept the heater hose, I spent some time rummaging around the back room at the local NAPA store and found a heater hose with a molded 90 on one end, when cut to length they worked perfectly routing the two hoses along the top of the valve cover where it meets the intake. Here are two pictures of the area during the mock up stage sans hose clamps. I also welded the original holes and did some smoothing of the firewall during the bodywork stage.
Jim
Yes, bottom hose really tests your patience working by yourself, reinstalling the heater box w/ tall valve covers. I'm going to try the unthinkable and install them w/o dropping the box, first. I can get to the clamps w/ a screwdriver between the firewall and box after removing the defroster ducts. Not pulling the box again unless I get hung up.
Think I'm wrapped up for this year after spending the entire day Wednesday working on the Comet. It's my second car behind my DD. Don't like to keep it out of commission for any length of time, in case of emergency.
Pretty fruitful year; got all of the hoses and belts replaced, restored the cooling system, clutch linkage, vents & heater. Have her in top tune for some fun when the roads dry out in a few days.
Getting the accelerator linkage in better shape today. Getting better results @ the Holley but still a tiny rock @ the firewall bracket due to wear over the years.
Have any of you guys restored the stock V8 linkage? I'm wondering if I can drill out the bracket and install brass bushings to tighten it up. The pics I see online for the Mustang linkage is metal-on-metal as well. Seems like there should be bushings in the bracket for the rod to ride on. Am I missing something here?
Back when my Cyclone still had the 289 and the stock mechanical throttle linkage I had a scary episode. I was driving the car, left from a stop sign and the engine went full open when I touched the gas pedal. I had to hit the key to stop, luckily there was no one in front of me. I could not figure out why this happened until I tried to hit the gas pedal with the hood open, I then saw that the engine jumped to the right and forced the linkage to open the carb. The left engine mount had broken, allowing the engine to toque to the right. That is why I prefer a cable linkage and why I pin my engine mounts with a through bolt. ( factory throttle cable, I am not a fan of Lokar cables)
Jim
Back when my Cyclone still had the 289 and the stock mechanical throttle linkage I had a scary episode. I was driving the car, left from a stop sign and the engine went full open when I touched the gas pedal. I had to hit the key to stop, luckily there was no one in front of me. I could not figure out why this happened until I tried to hit the gas pedal with the hood open, I then saw that the engine jumped to the right and forced the linkage to open the carb. The left engine mount had broken, allowing the engine to toque to the right. That is why I prefer a cable linkage and why I pin my engine mounts with a through bolt. ( factory throttle cable, I am not a fan of Lokar cables)
Jim
Back when my Cyclone still had the 289 and the stock mechanical throttle linkage I had a scary episode. I was driving the car, left from a stop sign and the engine went full open when I touched the gas pedal. I had to hit the key to stop, luckily there was no one in front of me. I could not figure out why this happened until I tried to hit the gas pedal with the hood open, I then saw that the engine jumped to the right and forced the linkage to open the carb. The left engine mount had broken, allowing the engine to toque to the right. That is why I prefer a cable linkage and why I pin my engine mounts with a through bolt. ( factory throttle cable, I am not a fan of Lokar cables)
Pretty wild stuff!
I don't think I have to worry about that one. High-rise manifold+ 1" spacer+ flush mount breather plate+ 3" air breather.
No paint marks on the breather or scratches under the hood (yet). I think the wingnut is nestled in the center crease of the hood.
Ought to get some putty and find out.
My 650 DP will be up for sale @ a decent price after I get the 750 rebuilt. Will tune it back down to near stock configuration before it goes.
Works great but runs out of breath @ 5500 rpm on my engine.
Ordered two more different ones this time to nail it. Looks like every tooth= 4mph on my app. Speaking of apps, I'm going off hard calculations, not GPS. Wonder which is more accurate? Never used speedo phone apps before. Hand grenades and horseshoes......
