1962 Comet Upper Control Arm Bushing Torque

[1962Comet]

Hey All,

First, it's been a while since I've been on the forum. Busy year, Kids graduating from college, getting jobs and moving away. Now we are empty-nesters. So, that has given me some time to do a few things on my Comet.

I purchased a set of upper control arms shaft and bushings with the grease fittings. I took the UCA off and got the old bushings off with no problem. I'm putting in the new shaft and bushings and looked into my Mercury Comet service guide and they say to torque the bushings to 160-190 ft-lbs to seat them.

I threaded the bushings on from each side, keeping them spaced even and alternated back and forth with my torque wrench again paying attention to keeping everything centered within the UCA. I got to about 70-80 ft-lbs of torque and realized that I still had a ways to go, so I figured I'd better ask. 160 seems awfully high. I think I'm going to need a bigger vise. And I'm afraid I'll squeeze/deform the UCA if I keep going.

Any advice would be helpful. Am I on the right track?

Thanks,
Dan

[Comechero65]

In my 65 service manual (I know that's not the same year as yours) it's not clear what the torque specs are. If you are anywhere near 100 ft-lbs you should be good. Some arms may never get that high due to corrosion and wear. If they are loose fitting could strip out while tightening. Main thing is that they are tight. Some choose to tack weld them in place.
Hopefully you are using a spacer, as specified in the service manual, inserted before tightening the caps to insure proper seperation of the arm assembly ends.
Also hope you cut slots through the arm threads to allow grease to penetrate all the way through the threads when greasing the arms. It's very difficlut to get grease through there if you don't do the mod'.
Ron

[1962Comet]

Hi Ron,

Thanks for the quick reply. I did get the slotted thread version, so I'm set there. No on the spacer. I figured it was to keep the arm centered so I was tightening each side equally, and measured as I tightneed. If that's not sufficient, are the spacer tools still available? A quick search for the tool number (3044-AB2) came up empty.

Thanks,
Dan

[Comechero65]

Hi Ron,

Thanks for the quick reply. I did get the slotted thread version, so I'm set there. No on the spacer. I figured it was to keep the arm centered so I was tightening each side equally, and measured as I tightneed. If that's not sufficient, are the spacer tools still available? A quick search for the tool number (3044-AB2) came up empty.

Thanks,
Dan

Did your arm come with the slot already cut in it? Never saw any like that. You usually have to cut the slots yourself.
Never had a tool for the spacer. You can fab' your own. Just a piece of tubing or pipe cut to the length specified in the manual. then just insert it between the sides close to the shaft. It's purpose is to maintain the spacing between end sides while you tighten the bushings. It's up to you to set an equal spacing on each side. Real simple once the bushings are tight. Just turn the shaft 1/2 turn at a time to get it centered as best as you can.
Ron

[1962Comet]

Hi Ron,

I appreciate all your help!

Yes, they came with the slots already cut in and grease fittings as well, from Falconparts.com

I see no spacing mentioned in the manual, just the tool. I guess I'm a little confused at why the spacing tool is needed. Since the bushings tread on the shaft at the same time you are threading them into the UCA, I figured that keeping the shaft centered is all that you need to be concerned with. You can't thread the bushings into the UCA without the shaft in place. When you start threading the bushings into the UCA, it engages the threads on the shaft as well, so I kept them centered until the bushings bottomed out on the UCA. Then starting torquing them a little at a time, keeping the shaft centered. The mounting bolts for the shaft are already press fit in, so there is no opportunity to rotate the shaft 1/2 turn to center it afterwards. Am I missing something or screwing something up?

Thanks,
Dan

[Comechero65]

I assume the spacer is to make sure the ends don't bend in causing the bushing to catch the wrong thread which would put a lot of drag on the shafts ability to rotate plus that could distort the side of the upper arm and tweeking the bushing crooked. It probably also serves as a gauge to make sure the sides are parallel. Once you get then installed the shaft needs to be able to rotate freely without a huge amount of drag. Of course after a few bumps any drag would quickly be diminished.
My book on the 65 list the spacer as 7 7/16" long for Falcon, Comet and Mustang for that year.
As far as rotating the arm to center it the bolts can be knocked out and pressed back in again if it needed to be turned just half a turn.
Ron

[Comechero65]

Dan, I read the article on your project car. Very interesting reading. Enjoyed the part on the radio refurb. I have also done a couple major radio rebuilds in the process of getting everything together for mine. Having a background in electronics the electrical part was the easy part. Doing the internal mechanicals was the major challenge. I installed a Maverick radio in the falcon dash. If you know anything about fords you know the later fords the radios were totally different size and layout.
I have to say that is one nice comet and you are lucky it has stayed in the family all these years. Must be a fun car to drive and enjoy.
Ron

[1962Comet]

Ron,

I'm glad you liked my site. I don't know much about the different size Ford radios, but it sounds like you fit a square peg into a round hole. Good job. Well it turns out the threads in my Upper Control Arms are stripped. That explains why the original bushings were so worn down. I looked around for repros and they don't seem to cover the '62 Comet. I may have to tack-weld them after all. Thanks for all your help.

Dan

[Comechero65]

It is like a square peg in a round hole. No way would it fit in the 64/65 falcon/comet dash. I used it because it is am/fm. Before I did this one I had refurbished the old 64 falcon radio and was going to add an fm converter with aux audio input jack that I added. Abandoned that idea and went with the Maverick radio as it already had fm. No adpater needed. And I added an aux audio input jack to this one. Here's what the original Maverick radio looked like:

Here's what it looked like after I modified it. That's a 64 1/2 mustang radio face adapted to the radio. Major rework of the internals to make it all work. Took parts from 3 different radios to do. Says STEREO on the slider but it's not. Only good slider i could find that would fit.

So you mean the threads where the bushing thread in were stripped? Or the threads on the shaft?
That's what I was saying the threads where the bushings screw in can be loose or even stripped. Of course you can roll the lips of the opening in some to tighten them up. that's why you need to be carefull not to tighten them too much or 'you' will strip them out. Tack welding is a good way to make sure they stay tight and could still be removed if ever need be.
Ron

[1962Comet]

Great job on the radio. I would have never thought you could fit it in the smaller package. The shaft is fine, it the threads on the arm where the bushing threads in, that's stripped. I'd need to find someone who welds, but I think I know a few folks who can help me out.

Thanks again,
Dan

[Comechero65]

Actually the Mav radio body is smaller. Relocating the controls on the face and then making them work internally was the hard part. Also modifying the shafts to make them longer to fit through the 65 comet faceplate was the big challenge.

Try rolling the lips in some where the bushings thread in. that would tighten them up and there would be new meat to thread the bushings into. then weld them in place.

If you have a mig or access to one you can fix the arms yourself. The mig and the oxyacetylene welders are the handiest tools I have. Wouldn't be without them.
Ron

[Comechero65]

Dan, Read about your ordeal in getting the old plates approved. And I thought Calif was difficult. Getting the old plates approved is nice and adds to the originality of the car I think. I added the black and yellow cal plates, which were correct for the time period, to mine and was nervous waiting to hear if they would be approved. The application had to go to Sac' DMV as they don't do it here locally either. And you don't know till the new registration arrives in the mail. Took about 5 weeks for me. I was careful not to paint them very well till they were approved. Was thrilled when the were approved.
Ron

[1962Comet]

Ron,

Yes, the Plate approval process was painful, but it makes a good story. I was dumbfounded when I handed the plates to the local DVM and they said they couldn't approve them. I love your old California black & yellow plates. I guess because I've seen them in so many movies/TV shows.

I love the forward slant of the '62 front plate, as it gives it style.


Dan

[Comechero65]

I'm not familiar with plates from your state but for you and others in your area you know what used to be and want that look of originality as well. The plate and your comet looks really good. One really clean looking car.
Ron