Lavron's '64 Build Thread

[popscomet]

we've had to weld a 1in coupleing cut in half and drill a hole in side of pan above oil level,so the tech people at certain tracks could insert a camara to check if you had legal crank and rods,,then tighten up a plug and your back where it started from...just make sure welding area is clean and weld not to hot as to blow a hole in pan,,,if you happen to have a tiny seep,clean it well and JB weld the seep......all this stuff is very doable and at hardly any cost,,,,and you really don't need to have a high school education or much higher good luck pop

[lavron]

I ended up ordering a couple of 1/2" bungs from Amazon, I had some reward points so two just cost $4 figured that was cheap enough.

I got out and cut the last few pieces and started tacking the pan together, will try and get it welded together this week and make some baffles for in the tank, I am supposed to get the bungs on Wednesday so I will get them welded on and figure out how I am going to make my dipstick tube, I figured I would use the old dipstick and just make a new tube coming out of the top of the pan.



The fun will begin when I get ready to weld the modified pan to the old pan, I kept most of the welds simple lap welds but still want to make sure the welder if hot enough to weld and not blow holes in the pan.

I guess this really will come together, it has not been too bad of job once I got over chopping the hole in the bottom of a perfectly good pan (point of no return) now just to hone my welding skills (or lack there of)

A little every day and someday I will have a driving car again.

See Ya,
Mike

[popscomet]

don't have to put drain plug in bottom,,,in an end will do,,that's the way these custom built pans we have are,none are in the very bottom.....in fact I would not want one in the very bottom...that's a lot to catch something driving down the road....like a dead skunk you might even want to consider a magnet on the end of plug.... pop

[lavron]

don't have to put drain plug in bottom,,,in an end will do

Thanks I was contemplating on where to put them so that helps me out.

See Ya,
Mike

[popscomet]

don't have to put drain plug in bottom,,,in an end will do

Thanks I was contemplating on where to put them so that helps me out.

See Ya,
Mike

we have one pan,that has a drain plug in both ends,,,so what ever blows your dress up!!!! POP

[thrnelson]

This may be a stupid question but having a pan with two low spots and a pickup in only one doesn't the oil in the other low spot just sit there?

[lavron]

This may be a stupid question but having a pan with two low spots and a pickup in only one doesn't the oil in the other low spot just sit there?

Yes, but you don't have a choice because the oil pump sits in the front low spot, it is something that Ford has done from the factory (and aftermarket) on many engines to accommodate rear sump configurations. This is a Mustang pan.



On my pan the front sump is larger than it needs to be but my choice would have been to build a new sump for the pump to just sit in or leave it larger, I chose the later the oil will change in the front sump to a certain extent as the oil flows down from above and fills it until it overflows to the rear. I am putting a plug on the front sump as well so it can be drained during an oil change, I figure after an oil change you will be a quart low or so right after you start and circulate the oil in the system and fill the front sump back up, however I am not sure how much oil will go in the front sump as you fill, it may go there first and have overflow into the rest of the pan?

My front cross member sits in the high part of the pan BTW, if you were wondering why it has to be modified.

See Ya,
Mike

[thrnelson]

Thank you for clarifying.

[lavron]

And two(ish) become one.



not leak free I am sure but put together, hopefully not warped, but it is bolted to the block so should be ok, now waiting on parts.

See Ya,
Mike

[SASSY]

Mike, that's one good lookin pan! Great job.
Fred

[Jims65cyclone]

Looks good, Mike!
Jim

[lavron]

Thanks for the compliments guys, it will look better the next time you see it probably

I did some more today but didn't take any pictures, my drain bungs came in late yesterday afternoon so they got welded on today, I touched up some more holes and finally decided it was good enough and I am just going to epoxy alll the seams where I can't see the holes but know they are there (hard to explain) but I am not even going to test for leaks just going to preemptively seal the seams and then do a leak test, sorry I just don't trust my welding at this time, maybe someday.

I stopped at the parts store and got the stuff to make a new dipstick tube so I should get it on there soon, I also cut out my baffles and need to drill holes in them (suggestion on hole sizes?) and get them tacked in.

Lastly I am going to give the pan a coat of POR15 and then spray on bed liner, but before that I am going to bolt everything back together and set the engine back down it the car to check that I did not screw something up and everything fits and clears.

I am going to get my pickup tube modded and get this engine off the the machine shop finally (I know keep saying that).

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

Got my dipstick installed today.


Measuring off the old dipstick tube and taking into consideration that the oil level is slightly higher in the rear because of the tilt of the motor I think it is pretty close.

I built the little tube thing at the bottom because I think the oil level is above the top of that lower sump so I thought I would make a little resevor for the dipstick to go in to, probably not needed but that is how I did it the round part at the bottom is a piece of tractor 3pt stabilizer link that I bent the devil out of when brush hogging (actually bent it until it broke) so I cut a portion out of the straight part of it and welded a 1/4" npt nut on the back of a washer and welded the washer on top of the pipe, the tube itself is one of those pre-flared brake lines and I just cut off one flare. I cut the bracket out of a piece of scrap steel and bolted it to coil mount hole on the block (not going to be a coil there anyway) and welded the bracket to the tube.

I couldn't find the bolt for the block so I just stuck one that fits in there for now

Still need to install the baffles and seal it all up but it is almost done

See Ya,
Mike

[lavron]

A double post today, I went out and got my baffles finished up and welded in, not sure this is what you guys were looking for but I did this way



I think that finishes up all the welding on the pan, and I bolted it back on the block and it is not warped Going to try tomorrow to set it all back down in the car if anything else comes up. Then starts beatification and sealing

What do you guys think of these; https://www.amazon.com/EZ-EZ-101-Oil-Dr ... ive&sr=1-1 they say you can clip a hose clamp on top if you are nervous about it opening if you hit something, etc.

I need to get a couple of plugs anyway and wondered about one of those for the back drain, the front has to be a regular old plug because there won't be any room for anything else.

See Ya,
Mike

[comethead]

Darn good Mike!! This is gonna pan out real nice!