Lavron's '64 Build Thread

The Era of The Square Body Racing Comets
comethead
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by comethead »

Congrats on the brakes!! That’s a big step...mine are coming soon too :|
I believe those plastic nuts are for the rear trim inside the trunk

Joe
1965 Caliente HT- 289/4 speed
1964 Falcon HT- track car- 302/4 speed
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

comethead wrote:
Thu May 14, 2020 2:54 am
Congrats on the brakes!! That’s a big step
Yes, feels good, no leaks still after a week, no leaks in the air ride from further back, maybe I can start this car on the first try when the time comes :roll: :P

Today was near a perfect day to paint POR15, warm and humid, they aren't lying when they say the more humid the faster it dries. I have a POR15 engine paint kit I bought a few years ago, almost cost $60, it doesn't look like they sell them anymore, it came with everything; degreaser, metal prep, POR15 base coat, engine enamel, POR thinner and even brushes, rubber gloves and a mask. Not sure what the thinner is for, maybe to mix for spraying, I didn't use it.

First thing this morning I used the wire wheel to strip most of the blue paint back off the block, I wasn't super aggressive with it so it left some paint on there but scuffed most of it up, I finished it by Scotch-Brite and a wire brush to reach the spots the wheel wouldn't go, then I degreased everything and etched it with the metal prep, after what seemed like forever I got everything completely dry by blowing it off with compressed air (good weather to paint POR15 bad weather to dry out a wet engine) I went ahead and masked off some things I didn't want to get paint on and brushed on a coat of POR15, then I went and ate breakfast :P

You only have a certain window of time to topcoat, where there is just a drag to the surface, so not fully dry, it was about right when I got back out to the shed, I painted the engine enamel on and it was a little tough to tell if I was getting full coverage because I was painting black on black, I think I got it all. The engine enamel dried to the touch super fast too but says let it dry 24 hours before messing with it (I didn't :roll: ) and to not start the engine for at least 4 days, I think I am safe there.
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So much for me saying it would be satin black, it is pretty shiny, I like it, it looks good with the aluminum silver, kinda thinking about painting the valve cover back all silver again, like bead-blasted aluminum, there is so much black there, but then again the intake adapter will be aluminum and maybe the air cleaner(s), I think I will try again to order a black distributor cap and keep the blue one as a spare.

As You can see I stuck some stuff back on the motor, I think some of it can now be mounted permanently.

Ready to finish the timing gear set and get all the covers bolted on the front, the 3G alternator came today and fits the bracket perfectly, maybe for once I won't have to modify something :roll: I should have some other parts trickling in over the next week.

See Ya,
Mike
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

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I know that picture looks the same as the one above except it is the other side, the big difference is internal, I got the timing set installed, timing cover is on, harmonic balancer, water pump and, on the other side the fuel block-off is installed.

It took me a while to do the cam because I was trying to figure out using a degree wheel, not sure why because I can't change the timing on the 250 anyway, but at least it confirmed the cam is correct, and timed properly.

See Ya,
Mike
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popscomet
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by popscomet »

All looks good ,expect that fram oil filter,,,it's the worse on the market....jmo....my boss sued fram yrs ago and they had to buy him a new engine for his ford ranger....it was a long drawed out affair...but in the end the judge ruled in his favor.....pop
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

popscomet wrote:
Fri May 15, 2020 9:20 pm
All looks good ,expect that fram oil filter,,,it's the worse on the market....jmo
I inherited two of those from my uncle when he passed, I thought I would use them for the initial break-in and then get something else, I haven't bought a filter in years just do the lazy thing and have it changed then I don't have to mess with disposing of the oil, will be changing it myself on the Comet, however.

What is a good brand of filter?

Also thinking about getting Autolite Platnum sparkplugs, not sure on the plug wires I think I want a premade set, RockAuto has a set of Motorcraft wires that are stock replacement but didn't know if I should get a larger wire with the electronic ignition, I think that Duraspark like I have came out in '74 or so and that is the year I checked on, Duraspark2 uses a different style plug.

See Ya,
Mike
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SASSY
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by SASSY »

Fram has been good to me, use their expensive ones on the Comet and the minivan, the F150 gets the standard PH8A.
Never a problem.
Fred
Last edited by SASSY on Sat May 16, 2020 1:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
I'd rather do it myself if it's done right or not,,,isn't that what hotrodding is all about

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popscomet
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by popscomet »

even a blind hog will find an acron once in awhile.....watched a video just the other night on oil filters,,,fram had the worst reviews,,,,I use motorcraft fl1a or a wix,,,but that's just me....at the end of the day when it's time to call in the dogs load up and go home...it's really none of my concern what anyone uses....good luck..... :) pop
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

popscomet wrote:
Sat May 16, 2020 12:27 am
I use motorcraft fl1a
I like the idea of a Motorcraft filter, maybe I will spend a couple extra bucks and get the racing version :roll: :P

I ordered a set of Autolite AP46 Platinum spark plugs and a wire set (United Motors Premium Grade) and hopefully a black distributor cap :roll: going to get a kit to custom make the coil wires so I can get them exactly the length and style I need, Moroso has a kit that has 6' of wire and 8 different boots that should be enough to make the two coil wires with proper boots (standard socket on the distributor to HEI 90 deg. on the firewall, then HEI on both ends under the dash).

Got the double V-belt pulley for the 3G alternator Saturday, now I can hopefully get the nut and old ribbed pulley off, I read it takes a stout impact wrench to get them off, I do have an impact wrench just not sure how stout it is or if the old air compressor can make enough pressure to give it any power. I found the bolts I need to mount it (I think) so I will be mocking that up soon so I can get a belt, I am just going to run a single belt until I get the A/C installed. After I get it mocked up I will pull the alternator/AC mount back off and get it cleaned up and painted.

I guess as my checklist leading up to the first start, these are the things I need to do in order of importance (doesn't mean they will get done in this order)
#1 - Get intake adapter finished up and cast.
#2 - Install oil pump with gasket, and install the oil pan, finishing up the short block.
#3 - Install flywheel, clutch & PP.
#4 - Assemble the rocker arm shaft (it was taken apart for a thorough cleaning) At this point I need to do any alterations in the engine bay like cutting the exhaust pipes off shorter, I need to modify the transmission opening in the floor as well to give more shifter clearance on one side, I am also going to modify the motor mounts again by adding more reinforcement, I feel the metal is too thin on the sides.
#5 - Install transmission, starter, put lifters in, set the distributor timing. (at this point I may drop the motor back in the car for the last time, hopefully)
#6 - Fabricate the exhaust spacers and install them along with the header, hook up the exhaust pipes.
#7 - Build and install the ignition system and the engine run harness. (the reason the motor needs back in)
#8 - Install driveshaft, fill the transmission.
Hopefully by this point, the intake is cast and ready to install, so...
#9 - Install intake adapter, carbs, fuel lines, and linkage after putting the head, pushrods, rocker arms, and valve cover on the engine.
#10 - Fill motor with break-in oil and pre-lube, install radiator and fill with water, add some gas to the tank.

Probably a bunch of stuff I have left out, but basically, at this point it should be fire at will for the cam break-in, once completed I think it might be time for a little drive around the yard :roll:

Nothing much will happen for the next couple of days because I have to be a plumber, kitchen drain decided to quit draining and it is impossible to clean out (super poor install by the plumber :roll: ), all the pipes are under concrete but luckily the kitchen sink is on the outside wall so I am going to core drill a 2.25" hole through the concrete foundation (the wall is buried in the ground halfway up on that side) and then just run a daylight drain to the ditch, kitchen sink and dishwasher don't need to run to the septic tank anyway. I got the trench dug Saturday with the single handle backhoe and am going to buy my supplies tomorrow and rent the core drill and try to get it back so they don't charge me two days rental.

I will keep at it.

See Ya,
Mike
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popscomet
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by popscomet »

POP's red comet came with a double v belt set up on the generator,,,I just put a single back on it back in the 90's,,but gen still has the double pully,,,one day am going back to double,,,looks better !!forgot why I did what I did,,,,slept to many times since then,,,,,,,,,,,,,pop
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

This motor has a double pulley because of the AC I think, it actually has a third pulley for the crank, not sure what it was for, possibly power steering. Just running one belt until I do the AC because then I will need a pair of longer belts.

I about finished my house plumbing project so hopefully I can get at least the pulley changed over and test-fit the alternator. I have a lot of leftover engine enamel so I may paint the bracket with it, it is really nice paint on the block makes it so smooth and slick dirt and oil should slide right off :P

See Ya,
Mike
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popscomet
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by popscomet »

POP"s comet came with AC and pwr steering...…...pwr drum brks,,,I took all that crap off of it,the 2nd time I redone it like it is today,,,,ain"t never looked back.....POP
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

As per the suggestions here, I made a gasket for my oil pump today and installed it.
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Don't eat cereal around here so I used actual gasket material (new even) I have a set cutting punches that I made the holes with.

Installed it and then the oil pan, I used black RTV and the cork & rubber oil pan gasket that came with the set I bought, not sure what the torque specs are on the oil pan but ended up doing 5# on the small bolts and 10# in the 4 big ones, hopefully, it won't leak, couldn't really torque the ones above the tee in the pan so just guestimated by hand feel :P

That was all today except my little $60 HF drill press came in, no more machine-less machine shop now, hopefully, I can test it out and make my exhaust spacers.

See Ya,
Mike
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lavron
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by lavron »

Sometimes things go hard, sometimes easy, the alternator install fell under the easy category :D I got my impact gun out and after cleaning the dirt dobber nest out if the air inlet I zipped the bolt and pulley right off the front os the 3G Alternator (130 AMP) and installed the twin V pulley, put the mount on the block and dug out the 200-6 alternator bracket and stole the pivot mount bolt out of it, perfect fit.
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I will need to get a bolt for the locking end but found one that will work for now, I had an old belt lying out on the ground so I cut a chunk out of it and duct-taped and stapled it back together for length, now I can just take it to the parts store and have them get me one the proper length.

The clocking of the plugs on the back look fine to me.
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I do need to make a little spacer to go between the bracket and the front of the engine, don't guess there is anything that bolts there. I guess the bracket needs to be prepped and painted now.
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I guess today I have to change the name of my machine-less machine shop to Mike's Mini-Machine Shop, I assembled my new tiny drill press ($60 delivered to my door) I went ahead and christened it into starting my exhaust flange project.
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So far it is not bad. I did not take the time to get any Dove soap or the compound to keep the drills from "gumming" up, I drilled all my holes while the aluminum chunk was one piece, the HF titanium step drill bits worked great after drilling a pilot hole for them first so I could avoid any possibility of the bit walking.

This is where I got to by the end of the day, now I just need to connect the dots and get them cut apart.
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I didn't leave much (any) in case of a mistake so hopefully I can get these cut properly, now I wish I had a tiny little bandsaw :roll:
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SASSY
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by SASSY »

lavron wrote:
Thu May 21, 2020 12:01 am
now I wish I had a tiny little bandsaw :roll:
Careful, all those machine shop tools,, thats a slippery slope for someone who has mastered a hacksaw!! :mrgreen:
I'd rather do it myself if it's done right or not,,,isn't that what hotrodding is all about

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popscomet
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Re: Lavron's '64 Build Thread

Post by popscomet »

on a 289 there is a small alumn spacer that goes on the bolt between alt and head,,,back in the 70's when I built my son's 67 fst back,,I did not have that spacer,,,so I hacksawed a length of handle bar off an old bycyCLE,,all these yrs and several other engines later,,,my son still has and uses that little piece of bicycle handle bar...he says it just belongs on that old car.....pop
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