COMET CENTRAL

Well I have been doing a lot of research on this project and I have a few questions.
First I would like to know how you can get the car to turn sharper? I installed Unnisteer rack and pinion, but it seems to turn as sharp as it did before.
Second, I'm looking at installing a new headliner. Mine seems to have a cardboard like product above the material and is sagging. I would like to glue some type of insulation to the roof and then glue fabric to it. Any thoughts???
Third I have purchased an AOD transmission. Some love it and some hate it. After doing some research I found that you can install parts out of a 4R70W to make the AOD a lot stronger. I'm looking for a 1993 Lincoln Mark VIII 4R70W output shaft. Apparently this shaft is still set up for the mechanical governor in the tail section.
I have found a working transmission for $400.00 but would like to get the cost down. Any referrals would be much appreciated and if you have experience with this AOD setup, I would love to hear from you.
My next move is to get the car up on blocks and start installing some sub frame connectors.

By "sharper", what do you mean? I think the Unisteers are all 16:1 so if your previous steering used a 5-turn box, it should have reduced lock-to-lock quite a bit. If you mean turning radius, I've read many R&P setups actually INCREASE that. I talked to Unisteer back when I was considering R&P but forgot to ask 'em about that.

AOD's are pretty big...not sure you won't have to massage (BFH at least) the tunnel to get one to fit. I don't know much about them except most folks recommend (even with mild engines) a ~2500rpm+ non-lockup converter and 3.70+ gears. MM&F has a good article here: http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/d ... nsmission/

I believe some 4R70W parts can be used but that's about all I remember!!

JH

Rocket989 wrote:By "sharper", what do you mean? I think the Unisteers are all 16:1 so if your previous steering used a 5-turn box, it should have reduced lock-to-lock quite a bit. If you mean turning radius, I've read many R&P setups actually INCREASE that. I talked to Unisteer back when I was considering R&P but forgot to ask 'em about that.

AOD's are pretty big...not sure you won't have to massage (BFH at least) the tunnel to get one to fit. I don't know much about them except most folks recommend (even with mild engines) a ~2500rpm+ non-lockup converter and 3.70+ gears. MM&F has a good article here: http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/d ... nsmission/

I believe some 4R70W parts can be used but that's about all I remember!!

JH

Thanks
I was thinking turning radius. The unisteer did reduce lock to lock. I'll check out the article.

Yea, sadly I don't think turning radius will be reduced. Read feedback from at least a couple folks that it increased notably with a Unisteer R&P. I remember back in like 2003/4 my wife HAD to have a to-be-unnamed-foreign-sporty-car-thing (ugh)...the strut design was terrible. While it handed fine, clearance necessitated a HUGE-a** turning radius.

No kidding, my F150 would turn a tighter circle. As soon as I looked at the front suspension, I was muttering a lot of "WTF's!!"...

Thje AOD is HUGE!On the one I heped with we had to enlarge the tunnel,a lot,still was a fun time getting the speedo hooked up.Headers on drivers side had to be remade to move outboard!It is behind a 620HP,427W,3.89 gear,28" rear tires,trans was built by PA [ very pricy] ,so far,so good! ROY.

Rocket989 wrote:Yea, sadly I don't think turning radius will be reduced. Read feedback from at least a couple folks that it increased notably with a Unisteer R&P. I remember back in like 2003/4 my wife HAD to have a to-be-unnamed-foreign-sporty-car-thing (ugh)...the strut design was terrible. While it handed fine, clearance necessitated a HUGE-a** turning radius.

No kidding, my F150 would turn a tighter circle. As soon as I looked at the front suspension, I was muttering a lot of "WTF's!!"...

I'm use to my Expedition which can make a U turn in a regular street.

CALIFORNIA CALIENTE wrote:Thje AOD is HUGE!On the one I heped with we had to enlarge the tunnel,a lot,still was a fun time getting the speedo hooked up.Headers on drivers side had to be remade to move outboard!It is behind a 620HP,427W,3.89 gear,28" rear tires,trans was built by PA [ very pricy] ,so far,so good! ROY.

Thanks Roy
Well I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there. I have read articles that maintained you could get it installed without enlarging the tunnel, but everybody seems to have problems with the headers. All the articles where using a different brand of headers then I have. When I was checking it out, it sure looked looked like there was enough space. I better measure it.

Tom;one of the issues we had was the last 12 or so inches and the collector were in the way of the shifter,also the floor brace made it next to impossible to get the speedo hooked up,we ended up building a new tunnel and firewall hump!Be careful with some aftermarket trans mounts as they let the trans come down too low screwing up the driveshaft angles!! ROY.

CALIFORNIA CALIENTE wrote:Tom;one of the issues we had was the last 12 or so inches and the collector were in the way of the shifter,also the floor brace made it next to impossible to get the speedo hooked up,we ended up building a new tunnel and firewall hump!Be careful with some aftermarket trans mounts as they let the trans come down too low screwing up the driveshaft angles!! ROY.

Thanks Roy. I'll keep that in mind. I was sort of thinking I would build my own or modify the one that's in it.

Well I finally got some parts to start working on the car. I liked what 65clevorcyclone did with the sub frame so I got some metal to make them. I tried to find some 2 1/2" by 2" tubing but I guess they don't make that size. So I bought some angle iron in those dimensions and welded them together.


Here are the angles and I painted the insides.


Here is one ready to weld together.

I'm still fitting them to the car.

I've also been working on a transmission. I've got 2 AOD's and 1 4R70W automatic. I'm going to make one good one out of all the parts. That's the plan anyway.


Here are the parts out of 1 of the AOD's

In case you haven't seen this...
http://clickclickracing.com/tech%20mods1.pdf
Lots of good info on the AOD.The valve body is fairly complicated so if you're going with a kit,take your time and have a big table!
I did a little tunnel work for a C6 in my 65 and the 4r I put in later fit fine.The 4r probably would be a better choice except for the big bucks for the controller.

Something else to think about.
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/tr ... ndex.shtml

vicegrip wrote:In case you haven't seen this...
http://clickclickracing.com/tech%20mods1.pdf
Lots of good info on the AOD.The valve body is fairly complicated so if you're going with a kit,take your time and have a big table!
I did a little tunnel work for a C6 in my 65 and the 4r I put in later fit fine.The 4r probably would be a better choice except for the big bucks for the controller.

Thanks for the tip. A very good article. I talked to Lentech today and I'm going with one of there valve bodies that is fully automatic plus manual. I will also be buying one of there non locking converters which will connect to both input shafts and operate them the same as one input. It sounded like a real good deal for strength and good shifting.

Been trying to get some time in on the Comet. I got both sub frame connectors welded in. Need to paint them up a little along with the bottom of the car. What do you guys think of the canned rubberized undercoating you can get at any hardware store or parts store.

I haven't posted anything on my project since March but I have been busy getting parts lined up for a new drive train. I did the Shelby drop on the front and made the necessary alignment changes with new shocks and new lower ball joints. It drove really nice. I rebuilt an AOD with 4R70W parts and bought a Lentech valve body and tork converter.
I found a 89 Mustang 302 with a mild cam that I cleaned up and a 97 Explorer 8.8 with 3:73 gears and posi. I'm in the process of installing the narrowed 8.8. Here are some pictures of the 8.8 being installed.
I first put some tabs on the upper housing at a 45 degree angle.


This is a picture of the upper tabs for the 4 link suspension I'm building


I then welded the housing in place under the car at ride height and 1" back


I have 3 of the links installed and brackets either welded in or tacked in place. When the 4th link is in place I will take the housing out of the vehicle and weld it up and then put it together and reinstall it after the undercarriage is painted and the housing is all painted up


I will try to keep you posted on the rest of the install and thanks for so much information you have put together on this site.


How do you get the car picture to follow your posts like a signature