65 Comet with 390

[loman]

I had to burn a vacation day, so I took off today with intentions of getting the motor all mocked up and measuring for push rods between today and tomorrow. Installed cam and then went to put the timing gear on cam and noticed no dowel pin. Went back to the box and it is nowhere to be found. After some searching, I have discovered the FE dowel pin is not the same as other Ford motors. Called Summit, they don't have any in stock and Jegs only sells it in something they call a finishing kit (dowel, woodruff, cylinder head dowels & misc.) for $30.
I'm calling the cam company on Monday. If I can't get them to send me one, I'll call a local machine shop.
I also went by local metal place to pick up some sheet metal for patching the floor board and tunnel. The thinnest they had was 16 gauge. So I drove to another place a little ways away and got some 20 gauge. I also picked up some aluminum stock. I have given up on the guy to make my other motor plate after 3 weeks so I will make it myself.
Tomorrow will be better...I hope.

[popscomet]

your gonna like this comet with a 390..I've owned a 67 390 3spd column shift 2drht Fairlane and a factory 67,GT 390hi-po fst bak stang,,and I still drive a 66f100 with a 390...I am a big fan of the torqe a 390 has ,of course it's built up just a tad and with a 3.50 rear gear it never backs up ,with a load....good luck on yours....pop

[Lip Ripper]

Yeah, I love my FE. And you might visit the Ford FE Fanatics page. Someone over there will have the dowel pin.

[loman]

I did away with the plate that was made off of my template and made my own today. I'm happy the way they turned out. I just need to clean them up a little and they will be done. Should have done that a few weeks ago instead of waiting for someone else. I also made my tabs that the plates will bolt to. Hopefully those will get tacked in tomorrow.

[loman]

I called the cam company Monday. I was informed that the FE cam was one cam they sell that doesn't come with dowel. They also told me it was a slip fit pin used only for lining things up and it doesn't need to be a hardened pin. I found a cam finishing kit on Rock Auto and purchased it. The kit lists the pin with an OD of .309. I could probably find something and make it work, but i'll just buy it and be done with it.

[fairlaniac]

I did away with the plate that was made off of my template and made my own today. I'm happy the way they turned out. I just need to clean them up a little and they will be done. Should have done that a few weeks ago instead of waiting for someone else. I also made my tabs that the plates will bolt to. Hopefully those will get tacked in tomorrow.

Looks slightly familiar? You are probably running an electric fuel pump with your injection. For those looking at similar mounts take note the mechanical fuel pump body will interfere with the left mount, just need notching. Looking good Rick!

This is a slightly older pic. I have now removed the firewall and inner fender and am currently fabbing smooth panels and making a frame for the firewall.


Firewall frame

[loman]

Looks slightly familiar?

Doug, it must have been pure coincidence that my mounts look like yours. I definately copied yours and tunnelbolt's style.

Went to the crew chiefs today and worked a bit on the 390.

[loman]

Since this is a budget build, we didn't spend the big bucks on the expensive rocker arm shafts. We went cheaper. It probably wouldn't be a problem, but we don't like the amount of space between the spacers and the rocker arms. There is the possibility of the rocker arms moving a little bit and letting them be off center of the valve tip, although I don't think they would really move once the pushrod is in and everything adjusted correctly. So we decided we are going to make longer spacers to ensure the roller tip of the rocker arm has to stay directly centered over the valve tip. If anyone knows of a reason why we shouldn't do this, let us know. We thought about it and couldn't come up with a reason not to. Our thinking was anything to ensure the valvetrain is properly located has to be a good thing.

[fairlaniac]

Since this is a budget build, we didn't spend the big bucks on the expensive rocker arm shafts. We went cheaper. It probably wouldn't be a problem, but we don't like the amount of space between the spacers and the rocker arms. There is the possibility of the rocker arms moving a little bit and letting them be off center of the valve tip, although I don't think they would really move once the pushrod is in and everything adjusted correctly. So we decided we are going to make longer spacers to ensure the roller tip of the rocker arm has to stay directly centered over the valve tip. If anyone knows of a reason why we shouldn't do this, let us know. We thought about it and couldn't come up with a reason not to. Our thinking was anything to ensure the valvetrain is properly located has to be a good thing.

Typically you use spacers between the rockers and spacers. You do not want the rocker moving left and right over the valve tip. I think I have .050 between rocker and spacer. That is pushing the spacer to one side and measuring the gap. Many use valve spring shims as spacers. I went to McMaster-Carr and bought shims with a proper I.D. & O.D. I'd get that gap closed up before you put too many revs on the engine.

Looking good! I always enjoy watching your progress.

[loman]

Doug, I was on McMaster's website earlier looking at aluminum round stock that I could cut to length and drill/machine out to fit the rocker shafts. I didn't even think of washers, thanks for the idea. I'll have to go back and look now. I think we measured the shafts around .840 -.845 diameter. Curt

[loman]

A little update. I called the company that made the rocker arm shafts last week and they said the shims are sometimes left out of the box. They informed me that they couldn't ship me none, I had to contact Jeg's. I called Jegs and supposedly some shims are now on the way, but they haven't showed up. If they don't show up by Monday, time for another call.
In the meantime me and the crew chief started putting the trans tunnel back together. It has been modified a bit to give more clearance for the C6. Hopefully we get the last of the pieces tacked in today so all we will have left is to finish welding and clean it up. I'll try to post a pic later today.

Pics now attached

[SASSY]

Good job!
The tunnel in our cars is very similar

[loman]

Good job!
The tunnel in our cars is very similar

Thanks Fred. By the way, what did you put on top of your seams when you were done? I was planning on seam filler or panel adhesive. I think I remember reading that Lou likes to use the panel adhesive and I like what he has done on his car.

[SASSY]

Thanks Fred. By the way, what did you put on top of your seams when you were done?.

???,,, DUh, would have to lift the carpet to see me and memory have a tumultuous relationship!
Just brushed some tar on underneath I think but no idea under carpet.

[Lou's Comet]

Thanks Fred. By the way, what did you put on top of your seams when you were done? I was planning on seam filler or panel adhesive. I think I remember reading that Lou likes to use the panel adhesive and I like what he has done on his car.

Yes, I used panel adhesive to seal all my seams. Seen seam sealer shrink, lift and found rust under some of the factory seam sealer when I removed it. It is more money but IMO the best results.

Wire brush the seam real good, clean with wax/grease precleaner, put the adhesive on right over the bare metal. I use a acid tin brush to work it into the seam real good and to finish it. After it sets paint over it, I used epoxy primer over it.

If you want to use seam sealer, I use SEM on customer stuff , but I don't use it on bare metal, i epoxy primer the metal first then do the seam sealer. Use the same tin brushes. I can get you the part # for the SEM seam sealer tomorrow if you like. It works pretty good but have seen it shrink.

Lou