COMET CENTRAL

The molded carpet came with enough to cover the sills. That's were I had to trim it. What It didn't cover was the rear sill going up to the bottom of the back seat. What I cut off by the doors did fit the back seat sill.
tom

It’s been about 48 years since I had a back seat in my Cyclone but if I remember correctly the rear seat riser had vinyl on it also. (I could be wrong)
If you look at the photo I included in my last post you might notice that the floors in front of the bucket seats is now flat, from the factory the floor was pitched about 1/2” from the tunnel to the door sill. I hated having the floor at an angle so I fabricated a floor that was flat. I had to trim the kick panels to fit the new floor.
Jim

AFX,your not wrong......pop

Well I was planning on posting another update with pictures but postimage isn’t working on my phone for some reason, but I got the switch panel mounted and the 2/0 battery cables ran and hooked up, I will post pictures soon when I figure it out.

neat & clean looking!

Got the Monte Carlo bar installed, hopefully this helps keep everything nice and stuff along with the under engine brace I installed, but fair warning to anyone who orders a monte Carlo bar and under engine brace from falconparts.com, they fit pretty terrible and the under engine brace even had to be cut up and re welded back together cause it was so off.

we modified one for a mustang for OL RUSTY 2 yrs ago....but it serves the purpose....as yours does...looks great pop

Well I finally got my intake and valve covers painted to look “original”, my whole goal when buying this engine in the first place was that I wanted the most power out of a stock block that I could make while still keeping it stock appearing so I can try to trick some people at the car shows when I pop the hood, hence the black painted aluminum heads and intake. The valve covers turned out amazing but the air cleaner lid turned out pretty splotchy.

smithhe wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 21, 2020 8:34 am

The valve covers turned out amazing but the air cleaner lid turned out pretty splotchy.

Looking good!
Lid not a problemo. Just wet sand and even her out a bit.

JT

Just read through your build. Nice work your comet is looking great. Need a 4V decal for your air cleaner.

Roger

to the carpets, we did the original, cut and sewn, loop, from Dearborn Classics. They were the ACC brand as I recall. We did cut and sewn because we had done some "custom" work on our floor pans (and by custom, I mean they weren't perfectly shaped). I was concerned that molded wouldn't sit flat somewhere and figured the cut and sewn would allow more work-ability.

http://cometcentral.com/photos/image/YDjk

At any rate, with your pans being so perfect, I'd think you'd be fine with molded. Slight concern that with the additional dynomat they may sit up higher, but nobody seems to have problems with that so they can't be that perfectly shaped.

Groover wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 22, 2020 6:50 am

At any rate, with your pans being so perfect, I'd think you'd be fine with molded. Slight concern that with the additional dynomat they may sit up higher, but nobody seems to have problems with that so they can't be that perfectly shaped.

I did end up ordering the molded set just because I was worried the cut and sewn set would move around too much as did my original carpet. But the carpet just showed up the other day, I haven't taken it out of the box yet because I still need to finish up the wiring that will be underneath the carpet before laying it down, I will post photos of the carpet when I get around to that. And on the dynamat note I was worried at first the carpet would sit a little higher and not fit certain areas but after laying down the dynamat I can tell you that the stuff is so thin that I doubt it will make a difference in the carpet at all.

That little post just looks to me like its just lookin for trouble,,
great build!
Fred

Well nothing too exciting going on with the comet, finished up all the wiring to the switch panel and got the battery cables run to my relay board. Cnnected the battery up and ran the fans and fuel pump which was pretty exciting. Now I just have to take the distributor out and put my homemade oil pump drive in there to prime the engine and she should be ready to run! Also looking at the old wiring harnesses from the engine bay I realized I need to reconnect them to the new battery location since I am not running a starter relay in the engine bay anymore. does anyone know which wire it is that I should connect to my battery lead on my relay board? Also just for context the starter is going to be run off the push button start on the switch panel so I just want to connect everything else to power so I can run the lights and stuff off the key.