I have been progressing in winter mode. Got my battery relocation mocked up. I am running both cables to the engine bay for install on starter and starter mount bolt. I will pull additional + and - circuits from there to my terminals.
Nice work Doug!
I plan on doing the same with mine. Running both cables to front, pos to starter and neg to block. What gauge/size cable did you use?? Also what size fuse?
Thanks Lou: I used 1/0 Cu wire for both + and - for the cable to the front. I installed my battery disconnect in the - cable at the battery and I used a resettable 250A circuit breaker at the battery in the + circuit. I will install cable tie-downs when I do final assembly. I have seen other battery relocates that were more complex but I am using Ron Francis wiring so this is how I decided to do it for my casual street driver. ----Douglas-----
Oz never gave nothing to the tin man that he didn't-didn't already have-
Thanks Lou: I used 1/0 Cu wire for both + and - for the cable to the front. I installed my battery disconnect in the - cable at the battery and I used a resettable 250A circuit breaker at the battery in the + circuit. I will install cable tie-downs when I do final assembly. I have seen other battery relocates that were more complex but I am using Ron Francis wiring so this is how I decided to do it for my casual street driver. ----Douglas-----
Thanks. I decided to use a Ron Francis harness too. Was going to build my harness from scratch but I really want to be running this year.
Which style did you go with? I went with the retro. Used the retro on a few other cars and really like it. If you went with the retro the fuse box fits nicely behind the ash tray. And with little modification it mounts to the ash tray mount.
Lou: I am using the Express kit from Ron Francis. I called them and talked to them about my project to make sure I was on the right track. I have not used their product before but I helped a friend with a project and that is what he used. I was impressed with the product and level of support.
Oz never gave nothing to the tin man that he didn't-didn't already have-
Lou: I am using the Express kit from Ron Francis. I called them and talked to them about my project to make sure I was on the right track. I have not used their product before but I helped a friend with a project and that is what he used. I was impressed with the product and level of support.
I used that kit in my Cyclone, only part I did not like was their system requires using their headlight switch. I looks a bit different than the oem head light pull.
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
Current winter work, I bought a set of headliner bows that were one red and three blue. I can use the red and one blue but I need the other two that go in the front two positions. Installed Dynamat while on the rotisserie.
Oz never gave nothing to the tin man that he didn't-didn't already have-
I had to replace the entire floorpan in this car. I saved the original 4 speed floor backing plate and installed it on the new floorpan. I was able to save the original 4 speed hump so I decided to put it all back stock. I welded nuts to the floor backer and fastened the hump to the floorpan with 1/4" SS machine screws. Below is the process I used-----------
[url=https://postimg.cc/hJHb1zQ2]
Oz never gave nothing to the tin man that he didn't-didn't already have-
Looks great, I like the transmission hump having the nuts welded in. I use a lot of rivet nuts in my builds, but yours being welded probably better long term.
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
Current winter work, I bought a set of headliner bows that were one red and three blue. I can use the red and one blue but I need the other two that go in the front two positions. Installed Dynamat while on the rotisserie.
I started playing with my headliner too, and the set of bows I bought are the same, one rear bow and the 3 others are all the same. So far they seem to work, but that doesn't mean they are right.
Finding ways to be productive in winter. I am rear firewalling the car and sealing the package tray. The photos show the progression to completion setting up for 5 1/4" rear speakers. I don't want kick panel speakers in the front and am pondering a couple under dash 4" speakers for the front. The sound system is for the next guy as I can't hear anyway. your beauty is
Oz never gave nothing to the tin man that he didn't-didn't already have-
Hey all; I have been working on my Comet for a few months recently. I changed the color of the replacement interior vinyl with Sem vinyl dye. Then I moved on to straightening the body on the rotisserie with primer/blocking. I have blocked the car three times now and I think I will call it after the next primer coat and do the final block just before sealing/color. Below are a couple of photos of the interior color change.
I built the headliner frame out of pvc pipe & fittings and strung it out to stretch and relax. This is a lesson I learned after the headliner color change in the blue 404 I did previously.
Oz never gave nothing to the tin man that he didn't-didn't already have-
Nice! If you don't mind me asking, what SEM dye did you use? They seem to have a few different types. Was it spray can or did you mix it and use a paint gun? Also any prep before dyeing? Adhesion promoters or preps?