I know t-10 parts are hard to come by and they are not super strong.
Rated @ 375 ft./lbs. Early T-5 much less, later around 310 ft./lb.
If mine blows, probably go Toploader. Any mod necessary for shifter location?
I think T-10 shifter will interchange. May need some tweaking?
Rated @ 375 ft./lbs. Early T-5 much less, later around 310 ft./lb.
If mine blows, probably go Toploader. Any mod necessary for shifter location?
I think T-10 shifter will interchange. May need some tweaking?
Joe
I'm running a top loader in my 65 Cyclone. My Dad has a t-5 in his 65 Cyclone, he used the tailshaft from a 4 cylinder chevy s-10 t-5 bolted to a fox body Mustang t-5 from the late 80's. Puts the shifter in the right spot from front to back but it is in the center rather than offset to the driver side. I know in the past it was really hard to get t-10 parts if it breaks. I have not checked in the last ten years or so, hopefully they have more support by now.
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.
Larry
I'm running a top loader in my 65 Cyclone. My Dad has a t-5 in his 65 Cyclone, he used the tailshaft from a 4 cylinder chevy s-10 t-5 from the late 80's. Puts the shifter in the right spot from front to back but it is in the center rather than offset to the driver side. I know in the past it was really hard to get t-10 parts if it breaks. I have not checked in the last ten years or so, hopefully they have more support by now.
Thanks for the feedback, Boss
Gear cluster and re-build kits still available for the Ford T-10. Most parts geared (no pun intended) toward GM Super T-10.
I'm wondering if tunnel cover changed for Toploader after T-10 was dropped?
AutoKrafters lists one tunnel cover (C3DZ-7B233) for '63-'65 '4-speed transmission'.
After looking for an answer to my clutch/PS conflict I have decided to go with the stock mechanical with an offset Z-bar and mods as required. I purchased a lot of suspension mods from OpenTracker and they have a kit that will solve my problem with minimum mods on my end. Now on to the next thing. I need wheels and I have decided on Cragars. I was going with Torque Thrust D's but I have owned several sets of them and I am ready for a change. I have never owned Cragars and I like the way they look on a 65 Comet. I am looking for advice on size (15" or 16") backspace and rim width. All input much appreciated thanks!
Douglas-------------
Oz never gave nothing to the tin man that he didn't-didn't already have-
I wouldn't put 16''s on front. it's hard to get enough positive caster before the tire rubs on the front of the fender opening,& that's with 15''x7's,it also gets close (rubs ) the torque box on at least one side,but not bad. but when the tire scrubs that fender it'll growl at you.
I'm in the same boat as Johno. I have 15 X 7's on the front but no rubs. It must be within 1/8" though. I have 15 X 8's on the back but I have a narrowed explorer rear end with a triangular 4 link that doesn't allow the back to move around at all. My rims also have 4.25" back space.
Tom
The preferred method of determining the optimum wheel/tire size is to do some measuring.
Set the car at ride height without wheels and tires and measure the area you have to work with. Having specification cut sheets for the wheels and tires you would like to run will make it easier.
The front can be a little more difficult but if you do some accurate measuring and allow for suspension movement and body lean it should help you find a good combination.
I wanted a tall tire on the front of my Comet and was able to fit 185-70’s on a 4” rim. The car does sit fairly low in the front which makes it a tight fit but I removed the the torque box behind the wheel and replaced it with a 12 gauge sheet metal, that allowed the taller tire to fit much better. I have no issues with rubbing anywhere. (I would prefer to lower the front ride height a little more but my header collectors would be too close to the pavement for normal street driving)
Jim
I'm running a top loader in my 65 Cyclone. My Dad has a t-5 in his 65 Cyclone, he used the tailshaft from a 4 cylinder chevy s-10 t-5 from the late 80's. Puts the shifter in the right spot from front to back but it is in the center rather than offset to the driver side. I know in the past it was really hard to get t-10 parts if it breaks. I have not checked in the last ten years or so, hopefully they have more support by now.
Thanks for the feedback, Boss
Gear cluster and re-build kits still available for the Ford T-10. Most parts geared (no pun intended) toward GM Super T-10.
I'm wondering if tunnel cover changed for Toploader after T-10 was dropped?
AutoKrafters lists one tunnel cover (C3DZ-7B233) for '63-'65 '4-speed transmission'.
Joe
Hey Joe the shifter tunnel cover is the same for T10 and Toploader. Shifters are different though.
Hey Joe the shifter tunnel cover is the same for T10 and Toploader. Shifters are different though.
Thanks Joe! Yeah, know the rods are different but is the mounting plate different?
IOW, can the T-10 Hurst be bolted to the Toploader, change rods to work?
) the torque box on at least one side,but not bad. but when the tire scrubs that fender it'll growl at you.
