289 ID Numbers

sixtyfourcaliente · Post by **sixtyfourcaliente** » Wed May 19, 2004 4:59 pm

Guys -

Wondering if there is an ID number on the block itself deciphering whether if my 289 is a K motor. The ID says so on the door, but I'm sure this motor was either rebuilt or replaced in 1998. Any idea how much HP this motor is supposed to put out? Just curious.

THANKS!

sixtyfourcaliente · Post by **sixtyfourcaliente** » Thu May 27, 2004 1:22 pm

Update: the K on the 289 Comet is different than the K on the 289 Mustang.. bummer because it would have been a HiPo if it were the same!

Confusing because for a while there, I thought for sure I had the performance motor:

K serial number
4 Barrel
Manual Choke

All signs of the HiPo motor, until I measured the harmonic balancer. HiPo is a little over 3 inches in thickness, mine is at 1 inch. : ( Oh well.

I believe there was a motor that was the same as the reg 289, but had a 4 barrel installed from the factory... BUT it came with a non-manual choke. That is what threw me off.

dgpmerc · Post by **dgpmerc** » Fri May 28, 2004 6:47 pm

My car has the same motor. I believe it was rated at 225hp.

Do you still have the original Autolite 4100 four barrel? Mine had one and after rebuilding it twice it still didn't run right. I replaced it with an edelbrock 600cfm with electric choke and the difference was night and day. It runs perfect now, and I installed the carb straight out of the box. If you do replace your carb, get the electric choke model as they're jetted leaner for the street. The manual choke models have bigger jets because they are intended for the track.

sixtyfourcaliente · Post by **sixtyfourcaliente** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 11:22 am

I was looking into an Edlebrock replacement as well. Only thing is I called them and they suggested the 500 cfm for this size motor. Did you speak with someone regarding your 600 cfm option? Just curious. I'd like to get the right one!

Thanks!

dgpmerc · Post by **dgpmerc** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 12:31 pm

If you plan on sticking with basically a stock 289 then the 500 would probably be a fine choice. In the future I'm going to build a 302 for my car with the edelbrock aluminum heads, fairly serious cam, etc and I went with the 600 knowing that I might need the additional cfm down the road.

sixtyfourcaliente · Post by **sixtyfourcaliente** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 11:36 am

Thanks! I love the idea of aluminum heads, but the price scares me. I figure a good valve job and maybe some flowing will do enough for my plans. I am looking for a good performing and reliable 289. The real issue will be updating and replacing the suspension stuff... looks like a lot of work.

dgpmerc · Post by **dgpmerc** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 11:44 am

The aluminum heads do seem expensive until you realize you're getting brand new heads, springs, valves, everything for $1000. They will outflow any ported stock head, plus you save weight on the front end of the car. Oh, and did I mention everything is new...

The suspension work should be pretty straight forward, just grimy heavy work. Once you get the coil springs out its just removing and replacing. Since you're doing the engine work and suspension at the same time, you might be better off just pulling the motor.

sixtyfourcaliente · Post by **sixtyfourcaliente** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 12:27 pm

Yikes... that would bmean I'd have to get serious and buy an engine hoist. Probably the best thing to do, but I'd rather not have to go that route. I'm looking at motor work this summer and suspension work after bonus time : ) Looks like the suspensions stuff is going to cost me arout 1500. (Coils, leaf springs, tie ends, sway bars, etc.) Have you upgraded your suspension and if so what did you do? Excuse me if you have already answered this previously.

dgpmerc · Post by **dgpmerc** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 12:41 pm

I bought the 65 Mustang sway bar and shock package, which was 239 and the front suspension rebuild kit for 279. If you're thinking of replacing the front coils with the really stiff springs that are offered, I'd think twice before doing that, especially the 620#/inch coils. You should be able to do the entire suspension easily for under $1000, even if you replace your rear springs.

Also, as far as heads go, if you take them to a reputable machine shop to have them worked, expect to pay around $500, and then you end up with a cast iron head that still doesn't flow very well. The other reason to go with aluminum is to take weight off the front end. In my opinion the front suspension on our cars is a pretty weak, poorly engineered design that wears out quickly. Lightening the load that the suspension has to handle might help make it last longer.

sixtyfourcaliente · Post by **sixtyfourcaliente** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 1:05 pm

Sounds like I may be better off doing the suspension first, and save up for the right stuff for the motor. It runs rather well right now, weak, but well. The Alumy heads sound like a vast improvement... I know that in the motorcycle world it makes a motor really open up. I figure with the manifold replacement and head replacement... that's gotta be a real substantial weight loss.

Did you get ALL your suspension parts from the same supplier? If so, I'd love a specific list... if you have the time.

dgpmerc · Post by **dgpmerc** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 1:19 pm

I got my suspension parts from Laurel Mt Mustang, but there are hundreds of Mustang parts suppliers, so take your pick. The suspension kits are advertised everywhere, so once again its up to you to pick one. If you don't currently buy the Mustangs and Fords magazine, it might be a good one to pick up. Lots of vendors advertise there.

I haven't installed the suspension parts yet. I pulled the motor to disassemble it and reseal everything. It runs good, like yours, its just weak. I've decided not to spend much money on my 289, I just want it to get me thru another year before I build a good motor (or buy a crate motor) for my comet. I'm also switching from the automatic to a top loader four speed right now. I've got all the parts, now I just need the time!