1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
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Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
Baby steps. Steering column is in and getting ready for Lizard skin coating on the inside. Love the red interior. Little more sanding and primer and then spray it in. Starting to work under the car as well.
Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
You will be glad you applied the Lizard Skin. Are you using both the sound and heat barriers? I installed both types inside and under my Cyclone, I also went overkill and put Hush Mat on top of the Lizard Skin. Even though my exhaust is just below the floor the floor is never warm and the sound is muffled, I wouldn’t hesitate to use it again. Red interiors are the best!
Jim
Jim
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Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
Lizard skin is in. I think its a little thin a in a few spots but I like how uniform everything looks and I have some left so thinking about spraying inside the doors and on the roof. Working mostly in the late evening on the Comet. Fuel line is done and brake lines are about 80%. This car really is a big jigsaw puzzle with lots of pieces coming together and hoping they mesh!
QUESTION- I have a 14 circuit trunk mounted wiring harness from the PO or I also have the original wiring harness. Looking for feedback from folks that have installed a new wiring harness (issues, additional parts needed, etc) and if you replaced the light switch. Let me know what you think.
QUESTION- I have a 14 circuit trunk mounted wiring harness from the PO or I also have the original wiring harness. Looking for feedback from folks that have installed a new wiring harness (issues, additional parts needed, etc) and if you replaced the light switch. Let me know what you think.
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- Boss/Cyclone
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Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
Looks good, I like how it makes it look so finished.
1965 Mercury Cyclone former drag car, 1971 Boss 351 engine, 4 speed, ladder bars, etc. Now returned to a street car.

Larry
Larry
Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
Nice job on the Lizard Skin application.
As for wiring I would recommend you not use any of the original wiring, the conductors are no doubt brittle from age and not up to the requirements for a modern build.
I replaced my system with an American Auto Wire Hiway 22 harness and panel.
They supply everything you need to wire the car, the wires are labeled every few inches so there is no chance of connecting them wrong. The panel is easy to mount and the wires connect to the panel with terminals. ( I prefer this method) They give you more wire length than you will need so you can route your wiring however you choose. ( I routed mine in the rocker panels, battery cable on one side, system wiring on the other) Make sure you install more grounds than you think you need, overkill is just enough. I also installed relays for all the high draw accessories, horn, headlights, ignition, etc. are all powered through relays. My alternator is a Powermaster 140amp one wire unit. I did not use the factory headlight or ignition switch, I used the AAW headlight switch and installed a pull switch instead of a keyed ignition switch, I don’t like carrying keys so the car does not need them. (Power locks and remote entry)
One other note that might draw controversy is that I never use solder when doing automotive wiring, I crimp all my connections using quality terminals and a professional style crimp tool. This includes battery cables, I also use HD welding cable for the battery cables.
Jim
Here is the panel installed in the glove box area, easy access.

As for wiring I would recommend you not use any of the original wiring, the conductors are no doubt brittle from age and not up to the requirements for a modern build.
I replaced my system with an American Auto Wire Hiway 22 harness and panel.
They supply everything you need to wire the car, the wires are labeled every few inches so there is no chance of connecting them wrong. The panel is easy to mount and the wires connect to the panel with terminals. ( I prefer this method) They give you more wire length than you will need so you can route your wiring however you choose. ( I routed mine in the rocker panels, battery cable on one side, system wiring on the other) Make sure you install more grounds than you think you need, overkill is just enough. I also installed relays for all the high draw accessories, horn, headlights, ignition, etc. are all powered through relays. My alternator is a Powermaster 140amp one wire unit. I did not use the factory headlight or ignition switch, I used the AAW headlight switch and installed a pull switch instead of a keyed ignition switch, I don’t like carrying keys so the car does not need them. (Power locks and remote entry)
One other note that might draw controversy is that I never use solder when doing automotive wiring, I crimp all my connections using quality terminals and a professional style crimp tool. This includes battery cables, I also use HD welding cable for the battery cables.
Jim
Here is the panel installed in the glove box area, easy access.

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Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
Hi Jim. Thanks for the input and the level of detail. Thinking that you used the 510760 Autowire. Been trying to sort how to handle the ignition and lighting and it looks to be part of the kit. Going to follow your lead and I’ll let you know how it goes!
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Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
Quick question. I am using a high torque mini-starter (Powermaster I think). The wiring shows a connection straight to the + side of the battery from the solenoid on the starter so it would basically be hot all the time. That is a bit of a surprise to me. Anyone else wired a mini-starter that is always hot?
Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
They must have the solenoid on the starter.
Originally the solenoid is on the inner fender of our cars and the battery lead goes to it.
Originally the solenoid is on the inner fender of our cars and the battery lead goes to it.
Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
A solenoid is optional when using a Power Master starter. I use a 9172 starter on my Boss engine and have it wired without a solenoid. I do have a mega fuse wired between the positive on the battery and the battery lug on the starter. If you follow the instructions that came with the starter you only need two connections on the starter, a large cable from the battery and a “ trigger” wire from the ignition switch.
If you need a power pickup for the fuse panel run a cable from the battery side of the starter to the fuse panel.
My system is slightly different so looking at my diagram is not applicable for “normal” installations. As mentioned I have a mega switch, an American Auto Wire Highway 22 fuse panel, a non keyed ignition switch, and my starting system runs through two relays, one for ignition the other for accessory.
I can post pictures of my wiring but it may add confusion.
I hope this helps.
Jim
If you need a power pickup for the fuse panel run a cable from the battery side of the starter to the fuse panel.
My system is slightly different so looking at my diagram is not applicable for “normal” installations. As mentioned I have a mega switch, an American Auto Wire Highway 22 fuse panel, a non keyed ignition switch, and my starting system runs through two relays, one for ignition the other for accessory.
I can post pictures of my wiring but it may add confusion.
I hope this helps.
Jim
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Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
I am using a Powermaster mini starter on mine, part# 9503. They have the solenoid on the starter. So the batt cable running to the starter is always hot and the small wire is to trigger the solenoid.
I have my battery in the trunk so the cable from the trunk to starter would always be hot and I really wasn't comfortable with that.
What I did was put a ford type solenoid in trunk beside batt. This way the batt cable to starter is only hot when I am starting eng and dead the rest of the time.
On the starter I just ran a small jumper wire from the batt feed lug to the trigger post on the starter mounted solenoid, this way when the main batt cable is powered the starter mounted solenoid is activated.
Here is picture

Lou
I have my battery in the trunk so the cable from the trunk to starter would always be hot and I really wasn't comfortable with that.
What I did was put a ford type solenoid in trunk beside batt. This way the batt cable to starter is only hot when I am starting eng and dead the rest of the time.
On the starter I just ran a small jumper wire from the batt feed lug to the trigger post on the starter mounted solenoid, this way when the main batt cable is powered the starter mounted solenoid is activated.
Here is picture

Lou
Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
Nice installation. I agree that having a hot battery cable running from the trunk to the front of the car could be an issue. Taking precautionary measures is the best way to handle the issue. I always use “0” or larger welding cable for battery leads, in the Comet I routed the cable from the trunk mounted battery to the engine compartment (frame rail near starter) through the RH rocker panel, there is a conduit in the rocker cavity, the cable is inside of that, so it is well protected. I also have a master disconnect switch mounted in the trunk, the ground cable is connected to that switch then the cable travels through the LH rocker panel ( in conduit) to the front frame rail and engine. There is a rod mounted near the drivers seat that actuates the disconnect switch. Having good and numerous grounds is important, I welded lugs on my frame rails just for that purpose.Lou's Comet wrote: ↑Mon Dec 09, 2024 7:43 amI am using a Powermaster mini starter on mine, part# 9503. They have the solenoid on the starter. So the batt cable running to the starter is always hot and the small wire is to trigger the solenoid.
I have my battery in the trunk so the cable from the trunk to starter would always be hot and I really wasn't comfortable with that.
What I did was put a ford type solenoid in trunk beside batt. This way the batt cable to starter is only hot when I am starting eng and dead the rest of the time.
On the starter I just ran a small jumper wire from the batt feed lug to the trigger post on the starter mounted solenoid, this way when the main batt cable is powered the starter mounted solenoid is activated.
Here is picture
Lou
I guess we may have traveled slightly off topic here but hopefully the information from everyones posts will help others.
Jim
Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
I always enjoy reading how you guys have done your builds, very interesting, and educational for me. You could stray off into the lower 40 (as they say around here) and it would still be good information.
As for our 66 Comet, it’s been sitting waiting for my attention, have done a little work on the hood, not much more.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
As for our 66 Comet, it’s been sitting waiting for my attention, have done a little work on the hood, not much more.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
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Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
Thank you guys for the help! I have the standard Ford Solenoid on the inner fender so thinking I'll just tap off the other side of it for now. I want to see if I can get it running by Christmas as I have a few days off then to work on it.
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Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
Been wiring the Comet using the previous owners 14 Circuit Harness from Quikwire. Its been a slow process as I work on it mainly at night. I took Jims lead and placed the Fuse panel in the glove box. Tested the headlights and tail lights and they seem to be working. I did decide to try LED headlights. I like the brightness and color but on the fence about the look. Starter is working so getting close to trying to start.
I do have a question for folks with a 64? What break light switch did you use? The 64 has the inline switch that appears to be an odd thread (not 3/8 24 like the fittings) and I am trying to figure out how to adapt it and curious at what you did. I believe 65 went to the switch on the pedal and wondering it that will work.
Silly question but are the dash lights all blue?
I do have a question for folks with a 64? What break light switch did you use? The 64 has the inline switch that appears to be an odd thread (not 3/8 24 like the fittings) and I am trying to figure out how to adapt it and curious at what you did. I believe 65 went to the switch on the pedal and wondering it that will work.
Silly question but are the dash lights all blue?
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Re: 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente Build
Depends on the size of the pin on the brake pedal, if it is short like this one the65 switch won't work.Darrylp27529 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2025 8:36 am.................. I believe 65 went to the switch on the pedal and wondering it that will work.

If it is long like this one then the 65 switch will work.

Lou