Root's 64 Cyclone Build

[Rootsy]

This story begins Circa 1986 or so when my father figured we needed a father / son project and he brought this old girl home. 4H27K563315. 2Dr HT, Lorain, Ohio built in Feb '64. PS / PB / 289 / auto. 2.80 rear end. Carnival red with white interior. Originally a southern car it had ended up in Detroit at some point along the line and once here had been somewhat "hot rodded by the previous owner". Over the next few years I did typical teenager hot rodding and jerry rigging stuff, someone at one point tried to steal her (with a carb off) and left it to burn in the middle of the road for the fire department to douse with a tanker of water... Fortunately only a small spot on the hood was affected.



When I headed off to college in 1992 she sat untouched for the next 6 years. In 1998 I told myself we are going to "restore" her and I put her up on jack stands in the shop and stripped it to a shell. I had 65 steering linkage from a parts car and converted to Granada disc brakes. I stripped it, blasted the non-sheet metal, put DP epoxy on it, painted the engine bay and underside for protection. Then life took a turn and I ended up taking a new job half way across the state and another in the area subsequently.

She sat in the barn at my parent's as a shell until 2012 when I moved it to my shop and it again sat until I moved it back to my parent's in 2018. Just a long line of other priorities, lack of funds, other hobbies. After moving it here I finally told myself you are either going to do something with it or sell it. I guess we know what choice I made. I have some old photos somewhere I will have to dig up but for the time being, lets pick up in 2018.

Things don't move fast and i could use some motivation to remain engaged. Body work has been the least appealing part of this and I am currently nose deep.

Fresh off of the trailer after finally selling my old home and moving her back to my childhood home.

[Caveman49]

Good story, should be a great build. I’ll be following along.

[Rootsy]

I have a lot of catching up to do to get to present day. I will try not to overload at once.

After a good wash job I thought it would be a good idea to get the front suspension squared away. First though I got ahead of myself one night after banging my head on the welded in shock tower bracing... For the last time. I have a removeable export brace to replace.



Originally the 65 drag link had been installed with Granada spindles for disc brakes and the geometry was totally jacked. At the time the tie rod ends I used were not correct and I couldn't get the toe out so moving the car around was a real bear. You can see just how bad the geometry was in the previous post.



I decided to scrap everything and start over. I had always intended to convert this car to manual steering and manual brakes (maybe this will change in the future if i can find a small footprint master cylinder and booster) so I opted for a complete CSRP manual front disc kit and his steering linkage kit. Springs, upper and lower control arms, bushings, ball joints are new Moog. I also went with roller spring perches. Stock location for the upper arms (no Shelby drop).











I re-used the 1 1/8" swaybar that I had originally purchased 20 years ago. Not sure if that direction will change or not in the future.

[Joe Travers]

I'm stoked you kept the car for all these years and decided to resurrect her
I picked up a '65 Cyclone around the same time that needed a ton of work and made the opposite decision after driving her a few years.
It was a rust bucket from down on the coast. The bucket seats, console and tach were all missing and it had three speed on the column.

Dealing out of the Hemmings phone book was a real drag back in those days. It killed my motivation.
There really is no better time than now to restore these cars with internet access.

Joe

[Rootsy]

I figured I had the front suspension tackled so I may as well tackle the rear end. In high school I had picked up a set of 4.11 gears from a local farmer and my birthday present that year had been a Detroit Locker and install kit. I hadn't planned on more torque than the driveline would handle so I stuck with the 8". We will see if it lives.



I had to literally cut the brake drums off of it when I brought her home and tried to roll her off of the trailer (I used the loader to lift the rear end to put it on the trailer).



Upon pulling the center section apart the first thing I noticed was that I needed a new gear set...



So I spent some money and bought a new set of 4.11 gears. Right choice? I don't know but it sounded good at the time and all of the drag strip calculators said bingo! I also took the opportunity to pull the locker apart and give it a thorough clean up before putting it all together - that was fun. BTW the first photo is an effective way to hold your diff in place while you torque your ring gear fasteners.







At the same time I was busy blasting anything not attached to the chassis and painting it. I don't have more than a 24 x 24 attached garage here now (sure do miss the shop) so a makeshift paint booth it was. Worked surprisingly well for the most part.









I went with rebuilding the drum brakes at the time. I should probably migrate to rear discs before I put it back in the car permanently. I have also noticed that I have developed some wetness on the axle tube to center section housing weld joint so there must be a pin hole or porosity.

To finish it off I threw on a set of Calvert split mono-leaf springs and Caltracs. I am not convinced that the springs will give me the ride height I am looking for with 15" rims. I also think I am going to drill the pad hole one inch forward to move the rear end back an inch. The springs have rusted just sitting in the garage so I will need to re-finish those before I put it back under the car.

[Caveman49]

Nice setup, a wise decision with the front suspension, looks real good. The body is in great shape, metal looks extremely solid for being up north. If it were me, I’d stick with the manual disc front and drum rear, that’s what I have on the 66, works good.
I would love to find a solid 2dr 66, could swap all frontend parts from our 4dr. Would pull the 302 if needed as well.

Keep at it, and the pics coming, going to be a fine ride.

[Rootsy]

Nice setup, a wise decision with the front suspension, looks real good. The body is in great shape, metal looks extremely solid for being up north.
I would love to find a solid 2dr 66, could swap all frontend parts from our 4dr. Would pull the 302 if needed as well.

Keep at it, and the pics coming, going to be a fine ride.

I am currently in body work *******. You will notice a theme here. Exhaust all mechanical projects before tackling body work. One of the main drivers why it has taken me 35 years to get to this point. Can I do it, sure. Do I enjoy it, no. You can see the drivers side quarter rot in the photo of it still on the trailer.

[Caveman49]

Yeah I saw the rear quarter, if that’s the worst of it you’ll be good. It’s taking me forever as well, and I just have to sand, and do a little mud work, then paint. We have some pretty good folks on here that have really gone above and beyond to their cars, but it sure shows in the end. I just don’t have that kind of energy anymore, I’d be happy to get it painted and back on the road.

[Joe Travers]

I am currently in body work *******. You will notice a theme here. Exhaust all mechanical projects before tacking body work. One of the main drivers why it has taken me 35 years to get to this point. Can I do it, sure. Do I enjoy it, no. You can see the drivers side quarter rot in the photo of it still on the trailer.

There are plenty of options around that, if all of the mechanical problems are fixed.
You can always grind to good metal and glass it, throw on a coat of primer and drive the snot out of it.
What's the plan, Stan?

Joe

[Rootsy]

I am currently in body work *******. You will notice a theme here. Exhaust all mechanical projects before tacking body work. One of the main drivers why it has taken me 35 years to get to this point. Can I do it, sure. Do I enjoy it, no. You can see the drivers side quarter rot in the photo of it still on the trailer.

There are plenty of options around that, if all of the mechanical problems are fixed.
You can always grind to good metal and glass it, throw on a coat of primer and drive the snot out of it.
What's the plan, Stan?

Joe

Well the passenger side quarter skin is just about ready to tack in and then it is on to the drivers side. Pictures will be coming. Going to have to rebuild the inner fender and flange on the drivers side. West Systems is my friend for certain areas with some minor pitting and pin holes.

[Joe Travers]

Well the passenger side quarter skin is just about ready to tack in and then it is on to the drivers side. Pictures will be coming. Going to have to rebuild the inner fender and flange on the drivers side. West Systems is my friend for certain areas with some minor pitting and pin holes.

I can dig it. That Cyclone is worth good money , if done correctly!

Joe

[A/FX]

Nice to see another ‘64 Cyclone being brought back to life. I read the part about the ‘65 steering and Granada disc brakes conversion not working out, I did the same conversion back in ‘72 except I used ‘70 Boss 302 spindles and brakes, it worked perfectly. Your new system should work fine. Keep the pictures and updates coming.
Jim

[Rootsy]

Nice to see another ‘64 Cyclone being brought back to life. I read the part about the ‘65 steering and Granada disc brakes conversion not working out, I did the same conversion back in ‘72 except I used ‘70 Boss 302 spindles and brakes, it worked perfectly. Your new system should work fine. Keep the pictures and updates coming.
Jim

Yeah I am not sure what I used for tie rods and ends 25 years back. So I just hit the reset button rather than exhausting a lot of energy to figure it out. Sold all of the old stuff for good $ so it wasn’t a total loss.

[A/FX]

Nice to see another ‘64 Cyclone being brought back to life. I read the part about the ‘65 steering and Granada disc brakes conversion not working out, I did the same conversion back in ‘72 except I used ‘70 Boss 302 spindles and brakes, it worked perfectly. Your new system should work fine. Keep the pictures and updates coming.
Jim

Yeah I am not sure what I used for tie rods and ends 25 years back. So I just hit the reset button rather than exhausting a lot of energy to figure it out. Sold all of the old stuff for good $ so it wasn’t a total loss.

It’s a moot point now anyway, what you have now will work fine. I don’t think you need power steering or power brakes, it’s just more ugly stuff under the hood. ( pump, booster, lines, etc.) The 1” wheel base stretch will help and make a difference when fitting tires, I moved mine back 2”.
Jim

[Jims65cyclone]

Enjoying your build thread, Roots. Keep it coming.

Jim